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Wheeling a fullsize

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  #181  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Spillage
The CAD vacuum operation is not just on/off... it switches vacuum from engage to disengage ports of the actuator... so vacuum is needed at all times to keep the yoke in one direction of the other.
the s 10 switch is the same idea as the t case vacuum switch, the only difference is our switch in the t case is a manual switch when we move the shifter

the s10 using the push button shifter activates the vacuum valve to move the actuator witch moves the cable for the axle shifter it still holds the actuator in place while in 4wd

basically the same setup
 

Last edited by h3lzsn1p3r; 09-21-2013 at 11:28 AM.
  #182  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by h3lzsn1p3r
the s 10 switch is the same idea as the t case vacuum switch, the only difference is our switch in the t case is a manual switch when we move the shifter

the s10 using the push button shifter activates the vacuum valve to move the actuator witch moves the cable for the axle shifter it still holds the actuator in place while in 4wd

basically the same setup
The S10 switch shown has two ports, so it is an on/off vacuum switch.
This would move (and hold) the CAD in one direction when activated.
What would move (and hold) the CAD in the opposite direction when deactivated?

Our system swaps vacuum from one side of the CAD to the other, and vents the opposing side.
Our switch has four ports, and the CAD has two lines, not one.
 

Last edited by Spillage; 09-21-2013 at 12:21 PM.
  #183  
Old 09-21-2013, 05:14 PM
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Did a quick check of my system to be sure as well as catch anything since the last trip. Put up the front end on jack stands and put tranny in Neutral.

It actually switches b/t 2 and 4 instantly for mine. Red line is for 2wd.

Just as Spillage said there is a 4 port switch: http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm

So while that switch I linked was the first that came up for "vacuum actuator switch" I hope to find one that is applicable. If not, then possibly simple compression lines and a tee or something. I could not get in a position to see the actual switch as it seems to be located on top of the tcase.

Again, this was an idea and seeing it talked out in a bit of detail helps.


Edit: Picked up the Dana 80 shafts to be used in the Dana70. 35 spline factory yo.
 
  #184  
Old 09-25-2013, 02:13 PM
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oooo interesting but pricey

http://www.genosgarage.com/BD-2-LOW-...fo/BD-1030703/


here is what our tcase switch is, ball valve to switch the flow --

pn 53001101

https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...tml?3593=45385

 
  #185  
Old 09-25-2013, 06:56 PM
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Not to go to far off topic, but I will be installing a clocking ring this weekend (if the weather is nice). If you need pix of anything while the t-case is out just ask and I will get some for you.
 
  #186  
Old 09-25-2013, 06:59 PM
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Word home slice. That would be most helpful since I'm not close to pulling mine out. Perhaps a tap measure on the input shaft and top of the case itself to see where all them damn wires/hoses go.

You clocking down for front DS angle?

It's my thread...Merc is allowed to go OT.
 
  #187  
Old 09-25-2013, 07:09 PM
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I can let the front DS hang 3"-4" past where it is now then I am in big trouble. So clocking down about ??? 2" I think. For the street it works fine but if I go play (which we might this winter) I don't need this to be a hassle on the trail and in deep snow. I will take pix bud not a problem.
 
  #188  
Old 10-02-2013, 11:02 PM
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Default Resuming York Install

Got back to this thing.

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Bushing sleeves just happened to the right length.
 
  #189  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:59 PM
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:43 PM
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bit more and now for some fittings and schtuff.

The A/C lines really make this a PITA.

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Mounted!

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