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HVLP Recommendations

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  #21  
Old 01-13-2013 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by VWandDodge
^^ Pretty good work (for a white boy).

Do you custom build or trim out and finish?
Custom build...the coffee table was a refinish job...filled pores of oak with plaster and then finished...the headboard was custom for a couple that slept in different beds but wanted to feel connected...i know...weird..its over 8 ft wide. i had to build a custom router table for the 3 1/4 hp triton router to do the edge work on the panels
 

Last edited by baileysoffroad; 01-13-2013 at 08:24 PM.
  #22  
Old 01-13-2013 | 10:52 PM
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a couple more pics of stuff sprayed with the tcpglobal guns incase it helps anyone..

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  #23  
Old 01-13-2013 | 10:59 PM
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Those look pretty good. But automotive finishes are not as forgiving as stains or lacquer on wood.
 
  #24  
Old 01-14-2013 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Those look pretty good. But automotive finishes are not as forgiving as stains or lacquer on wood.
They give ya an idea of the finish that can be laid down by the TCP GLOBAL guns....and no matter what your working with...you have to finish the finish...

A good finish isnt just spray and done. Automotive high build primers actually make the prep on an auto easier than wood in my opinion..a couple of quick coats and you can sand smooth...with my wood finishes i may need to spray over 30 coats by the time i get close to done...but like i said before...you should be sanding inbetween coats depending on time between applications and you should finish the finish by sanding with extremely fine sand paper starting at at least 2000 grit and going up.
 

Last edited by baileysoffroad; 01-14-2013 at 02:11 AM.
  #25  
Old 01-19-2013 | 12:16 PM
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Here are some pics of a Beetle primered and painted with a turbine sprayer.












I'm seriously leaning toward this route as I'll possibly be painting five vehicles along with my tractor.

The two professionals I know who have a turbine setup report that overspray is greatly reduced and adjustments need to be made to reducer and hardeners based on the ambient air-temperature.
 
  #26  
Old 01-19-2013 | 03:35 PM
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Link to said gun?
 
  #27  
Old 01-19-2013 | 04:25 PM
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see post 1
Originally Posted by baileysoffroad
They give ya an idea of the finish that can be laid down by the TCP GLOBAL guns....and no matter what your working with...you have to finish the finish...

A good finish isnt just spray and done. Automotive high build primers actually make the prep on an auto easier than wood in my opinion..a couple of quick coats and you can sand smooth...with my wood finishes i may need to spray over 30 coats by the time i get close to done...but like i said before...you should be sanding inbetween coats depending on time between applications and you should finish the finish by sanding with extremely fine sand paper starting at at least 2000 grit and going up.
my grand father painted all his wood working projects with a brush and they came out perfect. does that mean you would recommend to paint a truck with a brush?

when it comes to painting you got to get a good gun if you want to lay good paint job. i know my dad has a 1 gun that he would use for spraying primer or cheap plain paint but would not use good or metallic paint. if he is using a good or metallic paint he will use a good quality gun that cost him quite a bit of money many years ago.
 
  #28  
Old 01-19-2013 | 05:17 PM
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The guy who painted the Beetle has offered to sell me his turbine sprayer since he has no further use for it. He'll ship it to me once he digs it out of his corner of the garage and cleans the guns.

So, it looks like I'll be investing in a turbine sprayer.
 
  #29  
Old 01-19-2013 | 07:32 PM
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I am not familar with turbine sprayer (next google search) and I struggle with overspray when I painted Ram.

Iwata is a good gun, I just forgot the name of it in previous post. I picked up a good Iwata touch up gun (small cup) at an estate sale for $20. Wish I could find more deals like that!

That VW paint job looked pretty good. Did he say what adjustments were made with reducers and hardners to get it to work?
 
  #30  
Old 01-19-2013 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I am not familar with turbine sprayer (next google search) and I struggle with overspray when I painted Ram.

Iwata is a good gun, I just forgot the name of it in previous post. I picked up a good Iwata touch up gun (small cup) at an estate sale for $20. Wish I could find more deals like that!

That VW paint job looked pretty good. Did he say what adjustments were made with reducers and hardners to get it to work?
I won't say there are zero overspray but it seems that way. Unless you are spraying your conventional gun in an actual booth, you're going to get a pretty heavy fog of overspray within a few seconds. I did not see any fume cloud with the Showtime. Yes, I have a lot of experience painting but this is a whole other animal. Mart warned me there was a learning curve, and there was one, but it's not horrible. Someone with less painting experience might have an easier time since they would not have to unlearn anything.
I have never painted a VW before so I can't really say there was less paint used. I painted panel by panel so wasted a lot of paint by mixing too much several times. I can only assume that there would be less paint used because there was less of it in the air.
I have the two different guns and 3 needles so I used it for everything from the primer(s) sealer and paint. I used single stage. If I had gone with the 2 stage paint, I probably would have used a conventional HVLP for the clear, because I am not sure I would have had a fine enough atomization with the Showtime. That's just my opinion as I did not try it.
And from the other guy:
I tried reducing the hardener and it's a bad idea. It took way too long to harden. The key is using slow reducer, no matter what the temperature, and keeping your paint area warm. Remember- the turbine heats and de- humidifies the air going through the gun.
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