So how does an underdrive pulley help? and does it affect the output of the attached external devices, like alternator, water pump, a/c compressor, etc?

 

Hmmm.....it may turn into an e-book.......

Also you may consider sanding the sand mould impressions from. Lots of labor to sand it down, but sure makes an engine look great. OK, maybe more than what is needed for a daily driver thing....

Love to see the T bird! Gotta go back to H'ville this weekend. And legislative staff wearing me out during the week. Hoping to get my weekends back next week!

 

It's been a while but I've pulled together the funds and I'm ready to start ordering parts. After reading a bit I've decided to drop the modified throttle body and keep the original. I'm also a bit confused on the cam. The cam I'm leaning towards is this one Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

I think with your other mods, the throttle body might become a bit of a choke point if left stock. I think the big gulp is expensive as far as throttle bodies go, have you checked out fastman?

 

A while ago. I'll google him. There was an interesting discussion on the m1 vs airgap thread that lead me to this decision. Maybe a slightly modified TB willbe the ticket.

 

Reground cam.... Pay attention to pushrod length if you go with that one. Also, make sure you get the rest of the recommended parts to go with it.

 

Ended up ordering a 390 stroker short block from MRL Performance. There's 5 engines ahead of mine so it'll be a few months. In the meantime, I have a megaviper on it's way. I'm getting ready to order heads but read recently that the 1.92 intake valves may be more appropriate than the 2.02 intake valves due to velocity being higher in the smaller valves. Color me confused. UGH! So suggestions on throttle body size and valve size would be very appreciated.

Thanks!

And thanks Hey You for the advice, I'll definitely pay attention to the push rod length.

 

Definitely keep us updated on the stroker project. How much did that set you back?

 

3550. Mike with MRL only builds Mopar and has tons of experience. In sure I'll be happy with the results.

 

If you are building for low end grunt, the smaller valves are indeed the way to go. Higher port velocity at lower rpm. (better cylinder filling) Although, with the increased cubes..... you may not notice the loss. Up to you on that one. The bigger valves will certainly give you a wider power band, bit of loss down low... but, I would suspect, more than made up for in the mid-range. Could compensate with a slightly higher stall converter? (1800-1900 rpm?)