Ok, so I own (3) 2nd gen rams now & as of yesterday I can't drive any of them. Make it simple, I only plan to drive the (2) 2001 Rams I have. While I bought the 2500 in Dec. to build into a mud truck, I still always planned on putting it on the road still. It needed the tranny replaced and had a big dent in the side of the bed from a deer but I got it for only $1500. I have pulled, had re-built, and re-intalled the tranny so far but have a P1687 code now & it doesn't shift right yet. Now, my 1/2 ton I have had for about 4 yr.s and have done "some" work & mods to it to beef it up a bit. Last weekend, we put a set of 4:56 gears in the rear end & 300 miles into the break-in I have now lost my reverse. No hint of a problem, just came outta work & tried to back out & gone. So, my plan can be to 1. Take gage cluster from the 1500 & put in the 2500, see if the code goes away. If it does drive the 2500 & pull 1500s tranny, fix, & replace or 2. Just take the new tranny outta the 2500 & swap out w/ the 1500's. Second option means more work but less concerns on what else is gonna be wrong w/ the 2500 (wheel bearing suspect & O2 sensor code as well). Long read, I know, but if you got this far, lets hear your suggestions.....thanks all, Sean

 

I'm confused. Anyway, the 96 1500 tranny will not work in a 2001, without swapping the Gov solenoid, Gov pressure sensor and the TCC/OD solenoid assembly from the 2001.

And btw, I'd go with the 2500 any day .

 

Now I won't be pullin from one to put in the other (1500 to the 2500). Hopefully the gage cluster is the answer and I don't need a new PCM. Off to hopefully baby the '01 1500 to my 4X4 club to get help pullin the tranny & bring home the 2500 mudder to change out the gage cluster in it. I got my fingers crossed. wish me luck, yes. i need it....

 

I am even more confused. I do not understand the reasoning about swapping gauge cluster.... That is not the problem, and therefore, will not solve the problem.

I'm an old country boy. I would pick one, whichever one was easier to fix, and address that. Such as review some of the tranny threads and FSM to see why you don't have reverse. Most of the time, it will act up before just going out. Fewer things make this occur instantly. Will require dropping the pan and looking inside.

 

I don't think the cluster is the problem. PCM or bad connection at the harness plugs on both ends is where I'd start. Plus , IIRC, you'll need to have it flashed by a dealer to have the correct mileage.

 

Ok so the '01 1500 w/o reverse actually shiffted pretty good as long as I didn't shut off my overdrive. With it off it's slips in & out too frequently. The 2000+ page manual I was gratefull to find on this site suggests the rear band or front clutch plates are source of prob. either way, droppin it & gettin it rebuilt by my Bud in the 4X4 club along w/ a Transco kit. I brought the '01 2500 home & it's major issue right now is the front wheel bearing I have beat on for a bit & it won't free up from the knuckle. Aggghh. Pickin up a good MOOG w/ 3yr in the am w/a brake puller & UV joint to boot. The one behind the f'ed up brg is shot. Next, it aint the gage cluster, yep, yep .. I ran the self diagnostics I also got from the same manual & got no error code. First thing I suspect is it just needs the throttle control cable adjusted. It hit its shift points when I drove it home as long as I didn't get on it. The speed sensor is next on my list. If it's loose/shot then it could explain alot. Busy day - long msg...peace out. Thanks for the coomments & suggestions.

 

Are you checking fluid level in Neutral? I know it seems too obvious, but sometimes people check in park. Does the fluid smell burned?

The constant "slipping in and out" may be TCC locking and unlocking. Check adjustment ot TV cable to make sure it is not contributing to this problem.

 

Fluid level was checked 1st thing warm & in neutral. Was still nice & clear being I had put 7 or 8 fresh quarts in just a few months ago when I needed to change out the speed sensor, solenoid, & filter. I'm still bettin on the front clutch plates and/or rear band. Gonna yank it out now anyway & just it rebuilt the right way w/a Transco kit. I pulled the plates & thew em on my 2500. ****, same yr. & even the same color! I got the $240 MOOG wheel bearing assy. & $42 MOOG UV joint (OUCH on the wallet but 3yr warr.) installed today & it don't drive all the bad now. The UV joint I took off was completelly trashed. Anyway, still gotta get rid of the P1687 code. I thinking, check the cable tension and linkage first thing, next like zman said, check the harness plugs what with my Bud havin done alot of the hook ups when we in stalled it... Yeah, I can drive to work rommorow!!!!! peace out.................

 

If it is clutches, the fluid would not be clean. Something else is wrong, but rebuilding can't hurt. Go with upgrades like accumulator spring, VB kit, an BW gov solenoid.

 

Hey guys, Well I spent last night going thru the whole frontend making sure everything was tight cause it felt like I was driving a boat havin to oversteer and responsiveness was poor at best. Not much found loose but could be the poor alighnment & tires. Checked out the rear end also which is mising the stabilizer bar & the e-brake cables are not hooked up. First truck w/ posi & at first I thought the e-brake might have locked up the rear end, dummi I know. Looked at the throttle, tranny, & cruise cable next to the TB. All of the have a LOT of excess line. Going by the manual & and going thru the adjustment procedures tonight. I hope that explaing the damn thing not shutting off as well. Happened only once at the gas station tonight. Any other suggestions from the masses are appreciated. peace