The Official 2014 2nd Gen RAM Forum OT thread
I replaced pretty much every component on my Z28, compressor, evaporator, orifice, drier, etc. It had been open for a number of years before I bought it. I put al the new parts on, filled it with one can of oil and 2 cans of R134 without every having it vacuumed. Worked great. Blew cold air whenever I needed it. All depends on how much you want to spend.
I might just try this
Champion
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,096
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
I repeat, if you had it open and haven't had it vacuumed out since it was opened, if you charge it, you will have AIR, MOISTURE, and DIRT, no matter how clean and careful you were. Any of those will burn up your compressor and will contaminate the refrigerant. It is an absolute must to vacuum it out. Having the air in there could cause pressure differences and hotspots - and those could cause the cycling switches to operate improperly causing system damage. Bad idea.
Read this, especially the moisture, particulate/solids, and non-condensable gases sections.
http://www.hvacprimesource.com/Refrigerants.html
Read this, especially the moisture, particulate/solids, and non-condensable gases sections.
http://www.hvacprimesource.com/Refrigerants.html
well, i need to replace the head on the motor of the lawn tractor i just picked up. one of the rocker mounts is snapped from the casting. gonna get a used head, and new pushrods, and put it back together.
ill have under 150 into this tractor!
ill have under 150 into this tractor!
Champion
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,096
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Make sure you set valve clearance. Valves love to snap in small engines. Take a feeler gage and put it between the pushrod and valve stem at TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed). If you have less than .004, need to add a little more clearance. More than .008 and that will hurt performance, generally .004-.006 is good unless specifically noted by the manufacturer otherwise. Also if you have the cam out, grind out the compression relief bumps on them (don't yell at me if you grind the wrong bump though!). They hurt performance. A good battery and starter will start it just fine without compression relief. Anytime you have the valves/seats ground, or put in new valvetrain components it is necessary to check valve clearance. If you have too little clearance, remove the valve and grind the tip of the valve stem down VERY slowly and evenly. Then clean it, put a couple drops of kerosene or engine oil on it, reassemble, and try again til you get the clearance correct.
Make sure you set valve clearance. Valves love to snap in small engines. Take a feeler gage and put it between the pushrod and valve stem at TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed). If you have less than .004, need to add a little more clearance. More than .008 and that will hurt performance, generally .004-.006 is good unless specifically noted by the manufacturer otherwise. Also if you have the cam out, grind out the compression relief bumps on them (don't yell at me if you grind the wrong bump though!). They hurt performance. A good battery and starter will start it just fine without compression relief. Anytime you have the valves/seats ground, or put in new valvetrain components it is necessary to check valve clearance. If you have too little clearance, remove the valve and grind the tip of the valve stem down VERY slowly and evenly. Then clean it, put a couple drops of kerosene or engine oil on it, reassemble, and try again til you get the clearance correct.
