The Official 2nd Gen Ram OT Thread
#141
I have installed a lot of new ball joints and tie rod ends since I started doing this stuff as a mechanics son all those years ago.
I have never bought a new part of this kind that did not come with a new boot in the box so no, I really don't care much if the old one is in pristine shape {which they rarely are} its goin down baby,...
Dad managed to spread the ends of the pickle fork, probably before I was born, I took it with me to John 'the black'Smith's place when I was apprenticing with him.
In short time I had straightened the tool and re-tempered it. The heat treating also removed the rust so we tossed it into the vat of boiling salt to give it a nice rust free finish.
It still looks pretty decent.
I have never bought a new part of this kind that did not come with a new boot in the box so no, I really don't care much if the old one is in pristine shape {which they rarely are} its goin down baby,...
Dad managed to spread the ends of the pickle fork, probably before I was born, I took it with me to John 'the black'Smith's place when I was apprenticing with him.
In short time I had straightened the tool and re-tempered it. The heat treating also removed the rust so we tossed it into the vat of boiling salt to give it a nice rust free finish.
It still looks pretty decent.
Back when I was parting out old air-cooled Volkswagens, I could not get tie-rd ends on some of the beams to break free of the knuckle. I was smacking them with a sledge hammer -- nothing. Everybody I spoke to kept telling me, "Use a big hammer". Uh huh. I'd succeeded in breaking two pickle forks to no avail. Near as I could tell, those things tend to bond after having sat for a decade or more.
As luck would have it, a guy from the VW forums was driving cross country, and he stopped by my place to pick up some parts for a customer. I showed him the chassis I'd been working on, and explained how I couldn't get the tie-rod ends to pop. He dug around in his toolbox (that was in his 1963 Bus) and emerged with a tool I'd never seen. It cupped the tie-rod body, while the screw portion levered against the bottom, which was positioned to the threaded stud. That thing popped the tie-rod end out like butter. He basically told me to use the right tool for the job and life will be so much better. His advice has served me well.
**UPDATE**
I finally found a picture of the proper tool for separating the steering knuckle from a lower ball-joint. As the threaded portion is turned, pressure is applied to the ball-joint stud. Two examples of using this so as not to tear up the boot : 1) when replacing the CV axle or, 2) replacing the strut.
Last edited by Gary-L; 02-09-2016 at 04:37 PM.
#142
There are a lot of procedures that are easier to carry out when either the tie-rod end or the ball joint must be separated from the knuckle but are not being replaced. If the boot isn't torn, then there is no need to tear it up and replace it by using a pickle fork.
Back when I was parting out old air-cooled Volkswagens, I could not get tie-rd ends on some of the beams to break free of the knuckle. I was smacking them with a sledge hammer -- nothing. Everybody I spoke to kept telling me, "Use a big hammer". Uh huh. I'd succeeded in breaking two pickle forks to no avail. Near as I could tell, those things tend to bond after having sat for a decade or more.
As luck would have it, a guy from the VW forums was driving cross country, and he stopped by my place to pick up some parts for a customer. I showed him the chassis I'd been working on, and explained how I couldn't get the tie-rod ends to pop. He dug around in his toolbox (that was in his 1963 Bus) and emerged with a tool I'd never seen. It cupped the tie-rod body, while the screw portion levered against the bottom, which was positioned to the threaded stud. That thing popped the tie-rod end out like butter. He basically told me to use the right tool for the job and life will be so much better. His advice has served me well.
**UPDATE**
I finally found a picture of the proper tool for separating the steering knuckle from a lower ball-joint. As the threaded portion is turned, pressure is applied to the ball-joint stud. Two examples of using this so as not to tear up the boot : 1) when replacing the CV axle or, 2) replacing the strut.
Back when I was parting out old air-cooled Volkswagens, I could not get tie-rd ends on some of the beams to break free of the knuckle. I was smacking them with a sledge hammer -- nothing. Everybody I spoke to kept telling me, "Use a big hammer". Uh huh. I'd succeeded in breaking two pickle forks to no avail. Near as I could tell, those things tend to bond after having sat for a decade or more.
As luck would have it, a guy from the VW forums was driving cross country, and he stopped by my place to pick up some parts for a customer. I showed him the chassis I'd been working on, and explained how I couldn't get the tie-rod ends to pop. He dug around in his toolbox (that was in his 1963 Bus) and emerged with a tool I'd never seen. It cupped the tie-rod body, while the screw portion levered against the bottom, which was positioned to the threaded stud. That thing popped the tie-rod end out like butter. He basically told me to use the right tool for the job and life will be so much better. His advice has served me well.
**UPDATE**
I finally found a picture of the proper tool for separating the steering knuckle from a lower ball-joint. As the threaded portion is turned, pressure is applied to the ball-joint stud. Two examples of using this so as not to tear up the boot : 1) when replacing the CV axle or, 2) replacing the strut.
While it always advisable to use the proper tool for the right job, sometimes it is simply not possible due to cost or time restraints.
#143
Yeah, I have a real hard time spending a hundred bucks or more for a tool I may use twice, and then not use it again for a decade or so......
#144
If i was working on a someone else car for money, than yeah, this changes things. But on my own vehicles I agree with this statement.
#145
When I was doing it for a living, I had no problem spending on tools. (in fact, I rather enjoyed it.....) Also, it was tax deductible.
#146
It never ceases to amaze me how people will balk at buying or renting the proper tool for the job but will spend countless hours trying to fabricate some kind of Rube-Goldberg device as a work-around. These same people seem to justify expensive rims & tire combinations or other pricey add-ons. Pay once, cry once but have the satisfaction of doing it right, and in some cases, safely.
If there is a concern the tool will never be used again, it can be sold to someone else.
<steps off soapbox>
#148
It depends on the tool and what the job entails. I threw away those dangerous strut spring compressors in favor of a more expensive clamshell compressor. I may only get two or three uses out of the more expensive tool, but that far outweighs damage to property or medical bills (or worse).
It never ceases to amaze me how people will balk at buying or renting the proper tool for the job but will spend countless hours trying to fabricate some kind of Rube-Goldberg device as a work-around. These same people seem to justify expensive rims & tire combinations or other pricey add-ons. Pay once, cry once but have the satisfaction of doing it right, and in some cases, safely.
If there is a concern the tool will never be used again, it can be sold to someone else.
It never ceases to amaze me how people will balk at buying or renting the proper tool for the job but will spend countless hours trying to fabricate some kind of Rube-Goldberg device as a work-around. These same people seem to justify expensive rims & tire combinations or other pricey add-ons. Pay once, cry once but have the satisfaction of doing it right, and in some cases, safely.
If there is a concern the tool will never be used again, it can be sold to someone else.
#149
Anyone have an extra motor lying around? Here is a nice sport for sale!
https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/5442817061.html
https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/5442817061.html
#150
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 8,914
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Anyone have an extra motor lying around? Here is a nice sport for sale!
https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/5442817061.html
https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/5442817061.html