408 build (needing a second mortgage 😯)
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
That seems to be the case... kind of. The milage definitely is related to rpms. 1800 rpms (55 mph) = high 12s, 2000 rpms = high 9s~ low 10s, 2300 rpms (70 mph) = low~ mid 9s, 2500 rpms (80 mph in 5th, 65 in 4th) = 8s, 3000 rpms (70 mph in 4th) = low 8s. Those are the numbers I've been seeing with normal driving.... empty or loaded, uphill or down irregardless of gear selection.
Now, if I forget the throttle isn't a two position switch (all or nothing) I think it goes to gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon.
It's fun blowing the doors off of little ricer cars that think they've got something under the hood, until the truck rolls into the gas pump. Lol.
Now, if I forget the throttle isn't a two position switch (all or nothing) I think it goes to gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon.
It's fun blowing the doors off of little ricer cars that think they've got something under the hood, until the truck rolls into the gas pump. Lol.
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Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
Well, I still can't complain about this truck... Too much anyways. Lol. Mileage is still between 8 and 11 mpg, depending on how heavy my foot gets. Have towed a couple smaller loads with it (a couple cords of wood=~4000 lbs plus trailer, and my wife's VW sportwagen TDI about 100 miles to the dealer... Separate trips for this stuff) and have found I get better mileage when loaded. It definitely pulls like a champ.
The only real gripe I have right now is with myself. I don't remember if I've mentioned it before, but I forgot to put some sealer on the rear main when I put it together. Of course now it leaks like a sieve, so I'm planning on dropping the pan when I do my next service and see if I can seal it up.
And maybe one day I'll pester Ryan to finish the tune. We haven't done anything with it for a while now because of conflicting schedules. I think he's about tired of me on this thing though. It just doesn't seem like it's tuning like it should. Of course I'm such an expert at these things (not) that I know just what they should do. Lol
Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving, and Merry Christmas to everyone too.
The only real gripe I have right now is with myself. I don't remember if I've mentioned it before, but I forgot to put some sealer on the rear main when I put it together. Of course now it leaks like a sieve, so I'm planning on dropping the pan when I do my next service and see if I can seal it up.
And maybe one day I'll pester Ryan to finish the tune. We haven't done anything with it for a while now because of conflicting schedules. I think he's about tired of me on this thing though. It just doesn't seem like it's tuning like it should. Of course I'm such an expert at these things (not) that I know just what they should do. Lol
Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving, and Merry Christmas to everyone too.
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 73
From: S. Florida
Thanks for taking the time to give us an update.
I'm guessing the MPG probably falls in line with the displacement... I'm feeling lucky to be getting 14-15MPG from 308ci... the V10 488ci seems to get 8-11MPG, so you're in the ballpark.
I'm guessing the MPG probably falls in line with the displacement... I'm feeling lucky to be getting 14-15MPG from 308ci... the V10 488ci seems to get 8-11MPG, so you're in the ballpark.
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Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
The oil leakS are fixed (hopefully).
I rolled under the truck today and started draining the oil getting ready to drop the pan and was just looking things over. Something on the drivers side of the block kept catching my attention, but I couldn't figure out what it was. As I'm fishing a socket and extension in to take the starter out I finally realize what is bothering me so bad about that side.
THE FREAKING ENGINE MOUNT IS ABOUT TO FALL OFF THE BLOCK. I don't know how I've missed it, but as soon as I saw it a few things started making sense. I had used my old mount bushings because I knew I would rip on the gas for a bit and figured why trash a new mount off the bat. Lately I've noticed a little extra roll in the shift stick when taking off and just figured I'd wiped a mount out.
Well, of the three bolts holding the mount to the block there was only the top one left... And it was loose and bent. It looks like the bottom rear bolt fell out, the top one was loose, and the bottom front broke from the stress. the bent bolt and the partial had blue loctite on them and I remember torquing them down, so I'm not sure what all caused it, but it was probably operator error. Thankfully I had spare bolts for it still, so it was a quick fix with red loctite this time. I'll definitely be watching them closer.
On to the oil leaks. As soon as I dropped the pan I noticed that the rear u-shaped part of the gasket had slipped and was where most of the leak was coming from. I need to check the block for vacuum when it's running. I'm not sure what else would make it slip into the pan like that. I added a little silicone this time to try to glue it into place. We'll see.
I did have a slight leak from the rear main, but it was just a light weep at the joint. I still pulled the rear cap off and added a little sealer to the joint. Yet again, we'll see. Hopefully this fixes it.
I rolled under the truck today and started draining the oil getting ready to drop the pan and was just looking things over. Something on the drivers side of the block kept catching my attention, but I couldn't figure out what it was. As I'm fishing a socket and extension in to take the starter out I finally realize what is bothering me so bad about that side.
THE FREAKING ENGINE MOUNT IS ABOUT TO FALL OFF THE BLOCK. I don't know how I've missed it, but as soon as I saw it a few things started making sense. I had used my old mount bushings because I knew I would rip on the gas for a bit and figured why trash a new mount off the bat. Lately I've noticed a little extra roll in the shift stick when taking off and just figured I'd wiped a mount out.
Well, of the three bolts holding the mount to the block there was only the top one left... And it was loose and bent. It looks like the bottom rear bolt fell out, the top one was loose, and the bottom front broke from the stress. the bent bolt and the partial had blue loctite on them and I remember torquing them down, so I'm not sure what all caused it, but it was probably operator error. Thankfully I had spare bolts for it still, so it was a quick fix with red loctite this time. I'll definitely be watching them closer.
On to the oil leaks. As soon as I dropped the pan I noticed that the rear u-shaped part of the gasket had slipped and was where most of the leak was coming from. I need to check the block for vacuum when it's running. I'm not sure what else would make it slip into the pan like that. I added a little silicone this time to try to glue it into place. We'll see.
I did have a slight leak from the rear main, but it was just a light weep at the joint. I still pulled the rear cap off and added a little sealer to the joint. Yet again, we'll see. Hopefully this fixes it.
Veteran
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 327
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From: Spokane, WA
Great thread. I am going to be rebuilding my 360 this spring. The shop will be getting the kit and doing the install for me. Do you recommend not going with Shawn and Hemifever? He tuned my Durango and it seems to be running fine. If not I will go with Ryan. Also do you recommend that I do the kegger mod or try to find a different intake manifold? Also what about the dampener and TB? Keep them stock or go with a different one. Any other sensors I should replace? Thanks for the help. I am trying to get everything I need this winter IE: cap, rotor, plugs and wires and any other things you guys recommend.
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Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
Great thread. I am going to be rebuilding my 360 this spring. The shop will be getting the kit and doing the install for me. Do you recommend not going with Shawn and Hemifever? I think most of my problem with hemifever was self induced. I won't turn business away from him, but feel that Ryan has been more thorough and patient with me.
He tuned my Durango and it seems to be running fine. This motor has been running from its first startup on hemifever's canned 91 octane tune for a 360. I can't really complain about that. If not I will go with Ryan.
Also do you recommend that I do the kegger mod or try to find a different intake manifold? If you stroke the engine DO NOT go with the kegger anything. They don't breath enough for the added cubes. They barely keep up with the 360 as it is.
Also what about the dampener and TB? Keep them stock or go with a different one. A 360 is externally balanced where almost any stroker kit you get will be internally balanced (like a 318). You will need to get the right one for your scenario, but I would suggest a new one either way. Don't forget the flex plate and/or the torque converter, depending on where the weights are. You might get away with taking the weights off, but you'll need a stronger trans for the added cubes so it should be easier to just go with the right piece there.
As for the TB, it's the same concept as the kegger, you're moving more air, so you need to accommodate that... Going in and coming out. I still need to add headers and probably a little bigger TB on mine to get it to its potential.
Any other sensors I should replace? I went all new sensors just because of how I am, fresh engine means fresh everything. I would definitely do new MOPAR crank, cam, TPS sensors and IAC.
Thanks for the help. I am trying to get everything I need this winter IE: cap, rotor, plugs and wires and any other things you guys recommend.
He tuned my Durango and it seems to be running fine. This motor has been running from its first startup on hemifever's canned 91 octane tune for a 360. I can't really complain about that. If not I will go with Ryan.
Also do you recommend that I do the kegger mod or try to find a different intake manifold? If you stroke the engine DO NOT go with the kegger anything. They don't breath enough for the added cubes. They barely keep up with the 360 as it is.
Also what about the dampener and TB? Keep them stock or go with a different one. A 360 is externally balanced where almost any stroker kit you get will be internally balanced (like a 318). You will need to get the right one for your scenario, but I would suggest a new one either way. Don't forget the flex plate and/or the torque converter, depending on where the weights are. You might get away with taking the weights off, but you'll need a stronger trans for the added cubes so it should be easier to just go with the right piece there.
As for the TB, it's the same concept as the kegger, you're moving more air, so you need to accommodate that... Going in and coming out. I still need to add headers and probably a little bigger TB on mine to get it to its potential.
Any other sensors I should replace? I went all new sensors just because of how I am, fresh engine means fresh everything. I would definitely do new MOPAR crank, cam, TPS sensors and IAC.
Thanks for the help. I am trying to get everything I need this winter IE: cap, rotor, plugs and wires and any other things you guys recommend.
One thing I did when building this engine was look at air flow requirements for the 360, then tried to extrapolate that to the added cubes of the 408. That is how I decided on the exhaust, TB, and to some extent the heads. Availability won, but for just the numbers the air gap was a closer choice in airflow. It was close to a perfect match for the 408 when compared to the stock kegger on the 360. I was looking at making this thing grunt like a stock, fresh, 360 with a little more umph... And feel I have been successful in that. I am finding after working it more that there is a lot more potential there, I just have to find it. Guess that's why they're called MO'e PAwR.
Something I haven't added on here with everything else going on, I have been switching sensors over to MOPAR sensors as they start giving me fits. In the few months I've been driving this thing I've had the cam, crank, and IAT sensors (Napa brand) crap out, and the IAC was starting to act up so it got changed too. As HeyYou is always telling people, these trucks don't like aftermarket parts in certain locations. The above mentioned are good examples.
Veteran
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 327
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From: Spokane, WA
Guess I should look at the new posts before I start replying to everything. Lol. Answers are in bold in the quote.
One thing I did when building this engine was look at air flow requirements for the 360, then tried to extrapolate that to the added cubes of the 408. That is how I decided on the exhaust, TB, and to some extent the heads. Availability won, but for just the numbers the air gap was a closer choice in airflow. It was close to a perfect match for the 408 when compared to the stock kegger on the 360. I was looking at making this thing grunt like a stock, fresh, 360 with a little more umph... And feel I have been successful in that. I am finding after working it more that there is a lot more potential there, I just have to find it. Guess that's why they're called MO'e PAwR.
Something I haven't added on here with everything else going on, I have been switching sensors over to MOPAR sensors as they start giving me fits. In the few months I've been driving this thing I've had the cam, crank, and IAT sensors (Napa brand) crap out, and the IAC was starting to act up so it got changed too. As HeyYou is always telling people, these trucks don't like aftermarket parts in certain locations. The above mentioned are good examples.
One thing I did when building this engine was look at air flow requirements for the 360, then tried to extrapolate that to the added cubes of the 408. That is how I decided on the exhaust, TB, and to some extent the heads. Availability won, but for just the numbers the air gap was a closer choice in airflow. It was close to a perfect match for the 408 when compared to the stock kegger on the 360. I was looking at making this thing grunt like a stock, fresh, 360 with a little more umph... And feel I have been successful in that. I am finding after working it more that there is a lot more potential there, I just have to find it. Guess that's why they're called MO'e PAwR.
Something I haven't added on here with everything else going on, I have been switching sensors over to MOPAR sensors as they start giving me fits. In the few months I've been driving this thing I've had the cam, crank, and IAT sensors (Napa brand) crap out, and the IAC was starting to act up so it got changed too. As HeyYou is always telling people, these trucks don't like aftermarket parts in certain locations. The above mentioned are good examples.
Thank you for the input!
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 73
From: S. Florida
...Something I haven't added on here with everything else going on, I have been switching sensors over to MOPAR sensors as they start giving me fits. In the few months I've been driving this thing I've had the cam, crank, and IAT sensors (Napa brand) crap out, and the IAC was starting to act up so it got changed too. As HeyYou is always telling people, these trucks don't like aftermarket parts in certain locations. The above mentioned are good examples.
Mopar sensors all the way... the price difference is small compared to the issues and hassle of changing senors out again.
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Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
WELL $&#*! !
Things have been running great up to a couple days ago. Still fighting with the hanging idle, but Ryan found the cure for it. We just hadn't made it far enough to run with it yet.
Cruising around in the hills at about 1800 rpms I suddenly lost 20 psi oil pressure and gained a nasty knock. I'm fairly certain it's a rod but I'm dropping the pan today to make sure. I'll update when I find a cause.
Things have been running great up to a couple days ago. Still fighting with the hanging idle, but Ryan found the cure for it. We just hadn't made it far enough to run with it yet.
Cruising around in the hills at about 1800 rpms I suddenly lost 20 psi oil pressure and gained a nasty knock. I'm fairly certain it's a rod but I'm dropping the pan today to make sure. I'll update when I find a cause.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,588
Likes: 4,237
From: Clayton MI
WELL $&#*! !
Things have been running great up to a couple days ago. Still fighting with the hanging idle, but Ryan found the cure for it. We just hadn't made it far enough to run with it yet.
Cruising around in the hills at about 1800 rpms I suddenly lost 20 psi oil pressure and gained a nasty knock. I'm fairly certain it's a rod but I'm dropping the pan today to make sure. I'll update when I find a cause.
Things have been running great up to a couple days ago. Still fighting with the hanging idle, but Ryan found the cure for it. We just hadn't made it far enough to run with it yet.
Cruising around in the hills at about 1800 rpms I suddenly lost 20 psi oil pressure and gained a nasty knock. I'm fairly certain it's a rod but I'm dropping the pan today to make sure. I'll update when I find a cause.
