Death flash was to combat spark knock. Given the year of your truck, it is highly likely you have it.

Have you checked your plenum yet? One of the symptoms on my truck with a plenum problem, was no power till 3K RPM, then it was like someone flicked a switch, and the engine actually had some power. Fixing the plenum help some, changing the timing chain and gears made a MAJOR difference. (mine was at around 180K miles though..... so, the chain was REALLY sloppy.)

4.10s with 33's *might* have the engine running a little bit higher than it did stock, but, I don't see that as a 'bad thing'. Dodge was pretty conservative when it came to that...... and it really didn't do anyone any favors.

 

Probably 1400-1600, depending on labor rates in your area. Half that if you can do the work yourself. (probably less than half that....) Not something to be undertaken lightly though.... if you haven't done it before, having someone around that that has, is a requirement.

 

No...I can work on fairly basic things, replace consumables, etc - as long as I can find step by step instructions or it's so obvious it can't be missed...however, I know my limitations. I don't mind learning, but don't want to put myself in a situation where it's all taken apart and I'm paying to tow it to someone to put it together. This would be something I would pay someone for.

As for the 'death flash' I checked on the PCM - no sticker. Radiator support location: I can't see any labels, but it was still dark out and I was looking with a flashlight...PCM is easy to see...I could have missed a small label on the radiator support in the dark. I'll go look again during lunch.

-Ray


adukart - Thanks for confirmation that mopar made some flares, wether stuck on at the factory, previous owner, or the dealership. I've definitely decided I'm only keeping them if I keep the bigger tires. I'm only keeping the bigger tires if I'm reasonably confident I can get good towing power without throwing my entire piggy bank at it.

Looks like the SCT and tunes are $400....and I would be spending $2k or a bit less on gearing...minimum 2k all in...

 

I did them both around the same time. I scored a set of 4.10's on ebay for $150, (remember you have a dana 60 front axle and dana 70 rear on the V10/Cummins 2500s), and had a local shop do the install. It was $1200, but that included doing both ball joints on the passenger side. Here's a pic of the decal on my radiator support. I think there is a more factory looking decal with that part number overlayed on the pcm/ecm on the firewall.

Doing either of the upgrades will really help the truck, both together were well worth it for me.

Edit: Also, add me to the list of people that really like that tire/rim combo you have on there. Really sharp looking and compliments the body style nicely.

 

Well - I had a much better look and no label at all in either place. That doesn't mean it wasn't done, but interesting all the same.

I don't know...I may ask around for some prices and see....need to bring the boat home to winterize...lets see how bad it really is.

Ray

 

OK, so finally had the boat behind it....

Here's the thing...I've had a couple trucks in my life...a tiny little S10 in the late 80s (GM paint...never again.). A mid 90s Dodge dakota (one of my favorite trucks to date). A ...Ford and dodge half ton...each with the smaller V8 engine options. I'm generally use to very good every day driving responsiveness...and you take a hit when you tow, but it gets the job done.

So I was a little concerned when the 2500 V10 was a little sluggish in the 10-40mph range without a trailer. What was it going to be like when I put the boat back there, in the summer the entire thing weights in about 5000lbs. I hooked up the boat to bring it back to the house to winterize tomorrow....only about 5-6 miles, city stop light driving, up and down little hills...right in that speed range I find to be a bit sluggish.

There was zero impact of having the trailer back there. Yes the big wheels do seem to make it a little sluggish when it's empty. It ran identical with the trailer. I turned off the o/d...pulled the boat out and thought...huh...that can't be right. stopped and took off a couple times to feel it again...yep...the RPM/Speed characteristics were identical with the trailer as without. The boat wasn't fully kitted up with a full 55 gallon tank, icechests burried under every seat/etc...so it was likely 500lbs less than summer weight...but I also had the cover on it, which basically acts like a parachute...in the half ton I can totally tell the difference between pulling it covered and uncovered...not with this V10.

I'm less concerned about regearing at this point...and I think the wheels are going to stay. Yes I wish the performance was a little snappier when it was empty...but I drive like a grandpa anyway. I was just worried that I wasn't going to be able to drive withe the trailer on.

This will sound crazy, and I know it's not true it's just the way it felt...but I swear it ran smoother/better when it had something to pull.

Now I just need to find someone to buy a set of 4 OEM 1999 Chrome steel wheels and caps...16x6.5s. Since I'm not going to be using them.

 

Mine drives/rides better with a load as well. I think the 8.0 LIKES being put to work.

 

Mine too. The heavier, the better it runs.

 

I was going to write that I bet you wouldn't feel a difference towing but there you go!

My little 318 is like that too. Can barely get itself out of its own way, but man, load it up and stick a trailer behind and its the exact same thing!

The Magnums are known as torque-y engines. They all tow very well, just slow at it. In their day, they had both the most HP and torque of any competitors. In fact, the V10 with its 450 torque was more powerful than the Cummins! (until the 24v in 98) They are a sweet engine, just not with an exhaust. Sounds weird :/

 

Yeah, put dual exhaust, and some loud mufflers on it, and it sounds like you have a pair of angry five cylinders in there.......