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I need to flush the brake system on both vehicles I own. I've seen references to vacuum units that operate with the aid of an air compressor; however, it looks like they're set up for European vehicles. I've been considering a pressurized unit which requires the mechanic to pressurize the unit with a hand pump before he/she drains the fluid at each wheel.
Does anyone have any experience with such units? The benefit is the ability for a single person to handle the complete changing of the fluid rather than the two-person pedal pump system. I'm certain there is a solution out there for less than $75. I do have a Mighty Vac brake bleeder, but that's not enough for performing a serious flush.
I need to flush the brake system on both vehicles I own. I've seen references to vacuum units that operate with the aid of an air compressor; however, it looks like they're set up for European vehicles. I've been considering a pressurized unit which requires the mechanic to pressurize the unit with a hand pump before he/she drains the fluid at each wheel.
Does anyone have any experience with such units? The benefit is the ability for a single person to handle the complete changing of the fluid rather than the two-person pedal pump system. I'm certain there is a solution out there for less than $75. I do have a Mighty Vac brake bleeder, but that's not enough for performing a serious flush.
Use some clear tubing, (makes life easier to see what your fluid looks like) and stick it on the end of the bleeder valve. Make sure you get a good seal with the tubing, and around the threads of the bleeder valve. (teflon tape.....) Run the other end of the tubing into a suitable container, with an inch or so of brake fluid in the bottom. Do one wheel at a time, in the usual order. Once it is set up properly, just leave the bleeder open, and pump the brake pedal a few times. Look at the tubing to see what you fluid looks like. Still dirty? Pump it a few more times. (don't let the master cylinder go empty though.....) When the fluid is nice and clean, to your satisfaction, close the bleeder valve, move on to the next wheel. (empty some of the contents out of the container, don't want it overflowing, also use something large enough that it won't be in danger of falling over if someone (something?) looks at it wrong.
Use some clear tubing, (makes life easier to see what your fluid looks like) and stick it on the end of the bleeder valve. Make sure you get a good seal with the tubing, and around the threads of the bleeder valve. (teflon tape.....) Run the other end of the tubing into a suitable container, with an inch or so of brake fluid in the bottom. Do one wheel at a time, in the usual order. Once it is set up properly, just leave the bleeder open, and pump the brake pedal a few times. Look at the tubing to see what you fluid looks like. Still dirty? Pump it a few more times. (don't let the master cylinder go empty though.....) When the fluid is nice and clean, to your satisfaction, close the bleeder valve, move on to the next wheel. (empty some of the contents out of the container, don't want it overflowing, also use something large enough that it won't be in danger of falling over if someone (something?) looks at it wrong.
Originally Posted by Gary-L
Care to elaborate? I need the ability to flush the system by myself.
HeyYou explains things better then I do plus in on a phone hard to type a lot. I can't use my desktop as can't get internet out here. Also use a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the batter cylinder and put in new. I use about 3 jugs of brake fluid when I do mine.
I have a mity vac vacuum bleeder and it is good. I have used professional $500 pressure bleeder tanks in the past and it is the best option for speed and if your working alone.
I tried making a pressure bleeder using a weed sprayer, pressure gauge, lever valve and hose for $50. only issue I had was getting the reservoir cap to seal. If you work on old stuff with proportioning and metering valves...keep the pressure under 20psi,
Take the bleeder screw to the hardware and match it up with about 3ft of clear vinyl tubing. Hit the grocery store and buy a container of OJ... Drink the OJ - wash it out with water, then drill a hole through the top of it, matching the outer diameter of the hose you bought.
Put some new fresh fluid in the bottom of the OJ container, plug the vinyl onto the loosened bleeder screw... then pump the brakes and adding fluid to the master until only clean fluid is coming through the clear tubing. Close the bleeder, move to the next one. It won't take as long.
Thanks for the responses; however,, I wanted advice for tools regarding flushing and not bleeding. It's important to read the original question or statement before responding
Another contact of mine recommend using a Motive pressure bleeder for flushing. Here are his comments:
I prefer pressure bleeding myself. I have a Motive pressure bleeder. It does a pretty good job and is not exorbitantly expensive. I normally use a Mighty Vac with the little fluid container to evacuate the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, use some brake clean to break down any sediment that is in the reservoir, suck that out with the Mighty Vac, then top off with fluid and use the Motive pressure bleeder to flush the rest of the brake lines. Just be aware that without cycling the antilock brakes, there will be some fluid in the brake pressure modulator valve assembly and pump that won’t be removed. If you wanted to be SUPER thorough, do all of the steps above, take the car out and do a few abs stops, then flush the lines again. I usually don’t do that though. It is actually good practice though to perform an abs stop periodically to ensure the modulator valve and pump don’t seize. I normally do it in an empty parking lot once or twice a year when the first accumulation of snow falls. I make sure traction control and abs get actuated.
Thanks for the responses; however,, I wanted advice for tools regarding flushing and not bleeding. It's important to read the original question or statement before responding
Another contact of mine recommend using a Motive pressure bleeder for flushing. Here are his comments:
All the ways mentioned is a way to bleed and flush the system. I don't exactly $4 to flush my system with the bottle method.
Thanks for the responses; however,, I wanted advice for tools regarding flushing and not bleeding. It's important to read the original question or statement before responding
Another contact of mine recommend using a Motive pressure bleeder for flushing. Here are his comments:
Flushing the system is just a very thorough bleeding. Bleeding, you just want the air out, leaving most of the old fluid in there. Flushing, you are indeed bleeding the system, but, you keep going until all the old fluid is removed (flushed) from the system. It's the same procedure, flushing just takes a bit longer.
Brake System Flushing Tools
