Ok guys I need help I have a 1995 dodge ram 1500 with a v6 and a 5 speed behind it its had 130000+ but for some reason it is having issues. When I start the truck it will idle fine for a while but when it warms up the truck seems to be choking itself. It will go to its low idle and drop and pick up rpms like crazy. When I hit the gas it goes back to normal until it hits idle rpm and do the same thing as before. When I drive the truck it hesitates bad it will go then stop and almost choke and back fire until I let off and mash it then it is fine. When i hold the peddle in a constant stop it will sometimes go and drive fine and sometimes choke and back fire like crazy. When I drove the truck today it started and idled fine cold I pulled out and it was fine got half way home and it seemed to be choking itself and backfiring until the check engine light came on and it drove fine for 5 minutes until it went back to its issues. I have replaced the IPS and ignition coil. The fuses seem fine I dont have an O2 sensor at the cat because it doesnt have a cat I have a lower O2 sensor but I'm not sure if it is good or not. Nobody else has any idea what it could be but I need help please anything u can guess can help.

 

How warm does it get when running? Does the gauge read low and you don't have much heat in the winter? Do you hear a rattling noise from below the water pump? I had a '94 that did similar and the tensioner was shot and the timing chain had slipped a tooth. That can cause all sorts of problems. Has the timing chain been replaced? If not, your truck is about the right mileage to need it. It's not a really bad job. With the V-6 you have all sorts of room to work once you remove the fan shroud. A good quality timing set along with an updated tensioner from the dealer may do wonders for your truck. When I replaced mine, it was getting on towards winter and all of a sudden, the heat would run you out. My mileage also went from 18 to 25 mpg. If it never warms up, your computer never gets out of open loop mode.

 

The truck reads normal when it warms up I kinda hear something but I'm not sure I did the rotor cap and wires, but wouldnt the timing chain be much louder?

 

The distributor is at the back of the engine. You may hear a "shicka-shicka-shicka" noise while the engine is running. If you have a stethoscope or even a long wooden dowel rod, you can listen to the chain. I like a dowel rod. You place your knuckle on the end of the rod, then press the cartilage flap on your ear closed with your knuckle and press the other end to the timing cover. Make sure not to hit the fan, belt or other moving parts. You'll hear a rattling inside. A good chain will be a smooth rustling. If you've had the truck for a while and the chain hasn't been changed, it's probably due. Do you know the history of the truck?

 

What codes are you getting?
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm

 

I have an obd1 port I cant scan it so I'm not sure

 

Google is you friend when it comes to scanning OBD1 ports.....

 

You don't need a scanner. Mopar used a good system. Don't bump the starter or try to start the engine. Turn your key on, off, on, off and on. leave it on the third time. Your check engine light will begin to flash. Count the flashes. One flash followed by two flashes is 12. that means the battery was disconnected in the last 50 to 100 key starts. Code 55 is end of session. You will usually get those two codes. Anything else is something you need to check.This will also work on OBD II Mopars too.

 

If you tried the link you would have known this. It's called the key dance.

 

Well I tried the key thing and didnt get any codes that I could see. I did try to shake a bunch of the connections on the motor and noticed my purge valve plug was very loose and when I would pull out and up the idle would go back to normal and not die or hesitate when driving. I switched the plug and now it is back to dieing but seems quicker than it was not sure if I did something bad or just made the problem worse.