The 1.6 ratios rockers will give you more duration at .050 inch lift, and, of course, more lift..... You can take the peak valve lift number, divide by 1.5, then multiply by 1.6 to get your actual lift. In all reality, that cam looks REALLY mild.... even less so than the stock cam....

Anyone have numbers for the stock cam??

For reference, on a stock motor, with a stock cam, going from 1.6 ratio (stock) rockers, to the Harland-Sharp 1.7 ratio rockers, was good for a dyno tested 10hp/tq...... I significant difference for such a minor change.

 

I assume the cam removed from this engine was stock, maybe that is not the case, but just for clarification the one marked stock was the one i removed from the engine

suppose a guy used 1.7 rockers on this cam?

 

I need to pay more attention. I didn't notice you had two difference cam spec sheets there.....

Still and all, the replacement cam has a bit more duration, but, less lift. I don't see it performing noticeably better than the stock cam...... Of course, if you were going for forced induction, it might be good. (a blower makes up for a lot of sins. ) May have a broader torque curve, but, I don't think you will see the improvement you are looking for on the lower end. Might consider looking for an RV/Towing cam, that's a bit meaner. A LOT depends on what you want to do for a tune. If you go forced induction, a custom tune will be REQUIRED. (the stock programming just wouldn't know what to do with manifold pressure higher than atmospheric, in fact, in might even be confused enough, to set a weird code. ) If you include a custom tune in your plans, cam selection gets a LOT wider. And you can generate some truly stupid torque numbers. Of course, a normal aspirated cam choice, will be dramatically different than cam choice for a blown motor..... A blower cam will work "ok" on a n/a engine, it won't be a powerhouse, but, feed it high pressure air, and hang on to your hat. On the other hand, a 'performance' cam for a n/a engine, and add a blower? You will blow most of your fuel right out the exhaust valve. It'll be more powerful than without, probably..... but you will be leavin' a LOT of power on the table because of the cam.

Gotta make some choices. Either that, or spend money on a couple things again, later, if you decide to go forced induction....

 

Custom tuning is in the plans. I just found out last night from machine guy that a neighbor and friend (apparently not good enough since i wasn't aware of this lol) has an inhouse dyno, i reached out to him and he said he can tune the truck using HP tuners so once i get everything settled in and built ill drive (possibly haul) it over to him and get it done

Hoping to find a maybe a happy medium, but forced is deficiently a desire. if the forced cam can be made happy for short terms then ill probably go that way

 

Call and have a chat with the assorted cam manufacturers, and see if they can suggest something that you can live with for a bit, till you get the huffer put on.

Strangely enough, a blower cam will give at least reasonable low-end torque numbers, but, power will fall off quickly.

 

Well I hate doing this all twice. guess lesson learned for next time, don't take anyone's word without proof lol. I guess I got tired of looking and deciding so I went with this cam from Hughes. Looks like it'll be a nice runner as an NA and if/when I decided to get the boost done I'll revisit the situation. I am thinking at this point maybe I'll just build a loose 318/360 from bottom up for boost and swap it out when its done.

 

Well here we go again throwing a loop in the plans lol

This weekend I pickup up a 96 1500 360 4x4 auto Regular Cab long bed, little crusty but not a back looking truck, new box and a fender she'll be decent cab rockers someday also, also found a 58mm Throttle body with a boost tophat so my boost goals are once again fired up with this build here. I think I might drop the new cam and eq heads and headers on this 96 i got and restart the 318 project,

also I learned about trick flow heads, still researching but it appears they just recently started making magnum heads, not sure about the price tag on em yet but we'll see what happens, at that point i might need to pull the do full rebuild lol, but when stuff doesnt need it why do it lol

 

Well we might be blowing the moth ***** off this thread/truck. I picked up a 2001 Dakota with a freshly rebuilt 360 in it, .30 over pistons. Since the engine will be pulled anyway. I'm thinking I'll just do all the work on a stand this time. Much easier then in chassis. Just have to deicide if I want to get the Dakota in shape to drive it for awhile and make sure the engine is solid or just pull it.

 

So I'm usually a sucker for off the wall ideas and beating myself up over nonsense. So this is a 2001 Dakota, 4x4 360 Automatic. Since the 98 truck was originally a 318 and I'm swapping in a 360. I figured just use the transmission from the Dakota. Its supposedly rebuilt 7k miles ago. with a monster level 2 shift kit. The truck is pretty much undrivable at the moment, battery junk and 3 junk tires. I'm debating getting it road worthy, just to test everything out before going to the work, however it also has no box at this point so taillights and fenders will also need fabricated.

From my research the 5.9 still used a 46RE in the Dakota and the 4.7 and other pentastar motors had the 545, or simply the 45RFE at that time. Will this 46RE communicate the same with 98 truck PCM. I know just in trucks there was valve body changes in this era so what is my hurdle there. First immediate observation is the Dakota has the digital gear display indicating the addition of a range position switch. I would like to leave the trans as untouched as possible being its rebuilt and has the shift kit. I have looked into monster and they currently don't list any 46RE hardware but i got no paperwork for it so it could be smoke in the wind, or a branding wording difference between what he said and I.

Secondly I would love to leave the NV233? Transfer case (electronic shift) attached. I will be ordering some Dakota service manuals so I can get full wiring schematics and figure the issues out more in-depth but I want to start out with the obvious, is this remotely possible, with changing the trans, I have considered a full electronical swap to the Dakota PCM/wiring, of course then gauge cluster communication comes into play, which the Dakota cluster is functional, but probably doesn't fit. The transfer case has the actuator on it, selector in the dash, and a transfer case control module (TCCM?) between them from what I've found currently. Is it as simple as supplying power and ground along with necessary control wiring to the devices to actuate the case? Does the TCCM require abs input, speed input? CCD data link input?

 

Sensors changed in 99-00, so, the 98 sensors won't play nice with the 01 pcm. Just need to swap in the correct sensors, but, also need the retainer for the governor pressure sensor. (that changed as well....) Aside from that, it's the same trans.

Might try and find some used tires...... There are a couple places around here that sell 'em, likely someone nearby you does as well.

Not sure where you are going to the t-case though. Is it currently bolted to the truck, and working?? No clue what they came with from the factory....