I’m turning my attention back to some maintenance now. I have been trying to research some preventative maintenance items to tackle and I would like to group items together. I’d appreciate and suggestions or feedback along with any must have upgrades here . So far my plan is:

1. Motor work

-replace plenum gasket and repair plate (Hughes)

-timing chain and gears (double roller)

-water pump

-valve cover gaskets

-flush cooling system

-new thermostat (180*)

-plugs, wires, cap & rotor

-serpentine belt

-pcv valve

-clean throttle body


2.Driveline work-replace trans pan gasket

-replace trans filter

-flush trans fluid

-replace front and rear diff oil

-replace transfer case oil

-do check ball delete
- bleed brakes


3.Body-replace rear bumper

-new grill

-rust destroyer and touch up paint over scratches

-finish fog light wiring

-headlight relay harness



These items along with any other suggestions I feel will keep me busy til spring and we ramp up house remodeling projects again. I’m sure things will break, project goals will change and other items will befome higher or lower priority, but some fun mods/projects I’d like to do down the road are:

-replace cracked dash

-install cb radio
-speaker upgrade

-replace drop in bed liner with spray on

-install clearance light set I have

-replace ladder rack with camper shell and new ladder rack

-built transmission

-trans temp gauge

-deeper trans pan

 

Stick with the 195 stat. That's what the PCM expects, and offers the best fuel mileage. Not that these trucks do all that well on gas..... but, every little bit helps.

Don't flush the trans. Do the fluid/filter and band adjustment, but, just replace what comes out. Check valve delete is a good plan.

Check out the Sonax Sure Cure as well. When thoroughly installed, it allows the torque converter to charge in park. Which also means you can check fluid level in park....

 

I've never understood changing thermostat temp, the engine was designed to run at X temp, what gain is there dropping it or raising it? Unless you have an all out build with "new operating specs" specifically fuel type would be the only reason i could see it

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. This is exactly what I was looking for. I will stick with a 195* thermostat. I was leaning towards the 180 based off of suggestions on Reddit, forums and Hughes but if it’s gonna cause more issues then help forget it. Is mopar preferred or is there a recommended manufacturer?

I will be looking into that Sonnex kits, which one is recommended?

My goal is to get the engine work done over the next three weeks. I’m finalizing what to order.

 

Ever see guys put bags of ice on the motor before they race? Cooler engine will put out more power. I put in a 180 due the heat in the summer. My original radiator is long gone and the aftermarket one just couldn't keep it cool. Found out later after the replacement failed years later that it had less cooling fins than the original. My second replacement does better but still bends the needle in the summer. And speaking of heat, I'm jealous! December and you have green grass and leaves on the trees. Here in the arctic zone the temp is going down to the single digit's tonight and we wont get above freezing all weekend.

 

But again that's on a race motors, way beyond stock use engines, I don't see where a cooler thermostat helps keep the engine cooler, on one of those hot days, if it cant keep up at 195 what makes it keep up at 180? just opens a little sooner?

I think you got your comments mixed together, because I haven't seen the top side of zero for two days and probably won't until monday or tuesday lol

 

Lowering intake air temps 10 degrees will cut a tenth of a second off your quarter mile time. That's why racers do it. Driving on the street, the lower temp thermostat doesn't change intake air temp. Maybe two or three degrees, not a performance difference you are going to notice without precision measuring equipment. What it DOES accomplish though, it convince the computer the engine is running to cold, so it will alter the fuel mixture accordingly, in an attempt to get the engine up to operating temp it is programmed for. So, it's actually counter-productive, unless you tune for it.

 

Hey guys what’s everyone’s thoughts on the Harland sharp 1.7 roller rockers? I was doing some perusing of fb marketplace and someone has a new set for sell along with mopar finned valve covers. While normally I wouldn’t go for these, the price is right and I dig the look of the valve covers. If I’m replacing the valve cover gaskets it’s the right time to do it and am curious is it worth going the extra step for the rockers? Are there any supporting mods I’d need or a tuner?

 

You can install a 180 and add a resistor across the terminals of the sensor plug to fool the pcm in thinking it is a 195. On hot days mine will run over 200 all day even with a 180. I doubt there is that much difference in fuel usage for a 15 degree difference.

 

Would depend on what you had in mind for a cam in the future. Could be a match made in heaven, could be a night mare finding a good match that wouldn't max out you're PTV clearance.

On a stock cam I would think it would provide some mild gains, you should be well with in lift limits without having to modify anything. Whether its worth the money and work to gain another .010-.015 lift with a stock cam. I can't imagine tuning would be necessary for that mild change