does he own the shop?? if not show the manager or the owner of the shop the ****ty work he did , if he tries to fight you on it,and tell them about the broken off bolts that alone is a major" F&^*ED" up repair they need to fix,thats where all your exhaust leaks are,major half assed job if you ask me, "you dontjust put one lug nut back on your tire when you change it do you??"if they dont fix the broken off bolts, its gonna cost you alot more than $390 for someone else to do it, 6 FRIGGEN BOLTS??????!!!!!!!!!!! @$#*&^%!@&*(^$&*%^^$#@*!!!!!!!

 

they should've fixed the bolts right the first time, even if they had tocharge you more for it, and dont feel bad about $390 for the job, about right

 

I agree there is a proper way and an improper way to solder the wires properly, but as far as a couple inches of wire creating resistance that would throw thecomputer off more than the improper location of the o2 sensor I do not agree with. I guess well have to agree to disagree.

 

Well neon, to start off great looking truck....

I also feel your pain, when i got my headers done i brought it to be done at a supposedly "best guy in town".....Lets just say he pushed my radiator hose done into the belts(Ruined the hose, you can just imagine) Pushed the spark plug wires onto the headers(See where this fun ride home from the shop is going?) And left his wrenches on that little plastic compartment at the end of the windshield...
I didn't even bother going back to him, i dont want him touching my friggin truck again....

As for your gaskets, the ones that come with the headers are crap, my blew out and leaked on the way home (you really only heard it when the windows were up).....I went out and bought 4 sets of felpro gaskets, doubled them up- problem solved. I also did the work deleting the cat myself.....Heres a picture:

Long story short 20Neon, You have a beautiful truck, you'll get everything worked out, don't worry about it man, I know it seems bad now....My only advice would have been to listen to PADodgeRam and do everything yourself, i wish i did from the beginning....
Oh, And i don't have any check engine lights, it just runs slightly richer...


By the way, not to hijack, where are you from PAdodgeRam? I'm near scranton/wilksbarre (but in the mountains)

 

Whatever you do not pay him for his work, and whatever you do do not tell him you wont pay him. He didnt do the job he said hed do for the money you paid him, all your doing is getting the job you paid for. It may SOUND like a dick move, but he is the dick, not you. Youd just be getting what you paid for as a consumer.

 

Because the PCM is looking for voltage and not current there is no need to worry about voltage drop. ThePCM connects to theO2 in Parrell and the PCM dosn't draw any current.So because there is no current draw by the PCM the only draw is the wire. Theamount of current going throw the wire is measeured in mili amps.I don't know what guage wire is on the O2 but lets it's a 20 guage wire. The voltage drop over 6 feet for .001 Amps is .0001 Volts. I doubt this willeffect the PCM. If you lengthen the wire to 20 the drop becomes .0002 still not enough to effect it. If you are concerned about voltage dropacross the wire then when you lenghten it use a bigger wire. The bigger the wire the lessvoltagedrop.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm

 

Dude I agree, thats F****D. After I installed my stuff yesterday I've had a leak at all three points of the y-pipe, that thing is kinda junk. I've got my mechanic hooking me up with some good band clamps to seal it up. He also told me not to splice into the O2 sensor, listen to SilverDodge he knows what he's talking about. Its not that the wire is longer making more resistance, its that the aciddity in the solder will eat it from the inside so no matter how well you seal it its too late because you've already introduced the problem. This is what I did (doing); I installed the O2 sensor into the right side header (where the bung is from the manufacturer) and I'm getting a simulator from Dan (Fastman) to take care of the rear sensor. Glad to hear you decided to take it back and make hime fix it cause damn man I think I did a better job. Have you looked into dropping down to 2 1/4 pipe like Steve said? I think he's onto something there. I've got mine running 2 into 1 and I haven't noticed any drop in torque. Good luck with it man I hope it all works out.

 

Thank you guys for all your tips and suggesstions, it really helps me out A LOT. In regards to those header gaskets, I actually did purchase some better quality ones. Summit has suggesstions next to the headers on their page, and so I bought the header gaskets they suggested. I also had boughten locker nuts. I wonder why it still has an exhaust leak sound coming through the dash?

INDY, you are right, I do not plan to pay him one cent, he needs to fix what he did wrong, I'm not sure why he would assume put the cat on one side of the truck, that just doesn't make sense, gutted cat or functioning cat.

And smokegrinder, thank you very much for your nice words and optimisim, I really do appreciate that, thank you!

 

Good to know, but keep in mind that the two splices on each end of the extension also add resistance, in addition to the resistance being added by the length of the wire. That is more what I was concerned about, not the length of the added wire.

 

Ah! I'm so annoyed! After I left the gym, I ha the camera with me, and I shot a revving video out in the parking lot with my brother. Of course I got home and realized the stupid memory chip wasn't in the camera, so I can't even extract it now! Arghh! It sounds so amazing, it sounds like a mustang. Maybe I'll go back out again and shoot another one, sucks though, I hate being abusive on the enigne, but I gotta show you how she sounds guys