strange acting thermostat
#11
RE: strange acting thermostat
No, not while its running, all the antifreeze will squirt on the ground, Remove the radiator cap and start the truck up and see if there are bubbles in the radiator. If there is let the thermostat cycle a few times and if their is air in the system, THe radiator will kindamake aburp noise and you will have to put more coolant in the radiator
#12
#13
RE: strange acting thermostat
well, nothing obvious is jumping out at me, and it sounds like you know what you're doing
new rad, 2 new therm, 1 new temp sending unit, and new hoses.
the only thing not new is the water pump, right ?
it shouldn't do what its doing.
sorry, shotgunning a bunch of questions..
1. sorry, i have to ask.. you are installing the t-stat sensor down, inside the manifold right ?
2. and you install t-stat first, down inside the little dimple in the manifold, and then the gasket on top of that, right ?
3. any sloshing sounds behind the dash. air can disrupt things.
4. rad overflow tank full up to min or max.
5. rad cap all the way on good and tight.
6. no leaks anywhere.
7. both new t-stats have acted exactly the same right?
8. what did the original t-stat do ?
9. how old is water pump ?
10. does wp feel ok ? no play, no slop, no leaks, no rattle.
11. did it appear to overheat and act this same way with the orig temp sensor, or is this one unique ? if its unique, i quess it could be bad, if it acts the same as the old one, then i doubt it.
12. have you still got t-stat #1 or #2. test them in a pot of water on the stove with a meat thermometer. see where they 'begin' to open and where they are 'full' open. this is usually only about 5-10* apart at the most.
13. does it act the same way sitting in the driveway as it does driving down the road.
14. when starting up cold, how long does it take the temp gauge to get up to about 190.
15. when it hits about 190, does the top rad hose get warm fast, like there is water flowing, or does it remain cold until temp hits 230-240.
new rad, 2 new therm, 1 new temp sending unit, and new hoses.
the only thing not new is the water pump, right ?
it shouldn't do what its doing.
sorry, shotgunning a bunch of questions..
1. sorry, i have to ask.. you are installing the t-stat sensor down, inside the manifold right ?
2. and you install t-stat first, down inside the little dimple in the manifold, and then the gasket on top of that, right ?
3. any sloshing sounds behind the dash. air can disrupt things.
4. rad overflow tank full up to min or max.
5. rad cap all the way on good and tight.
6. no leaks anywhere.
7. both new t-stats have acted exactly the same right?
8. what did the original t-stat do ?
9. how old is water pump ?
10. does wp feel ok ? no play, no slop, no leaks, no rattle.
11. did it appear to overheat and act this same way with the orig temp sensor, or is this one unique ? if its unique, i quess it could be bad, if it acts the same as the old one, then i doubt it.
12. have you still got t-stat #1 or #2. test them in a pot of water on the stove with a meat thermometer. see where they 'begin' to open and where they are 'full' open. this is usually only about 5-10* apart at the most.
13. does it act the same way sitting in the driveway as it does driving down the road.
14. when starting up cold, how long does it take the temp gauge to get up to about 190.
15. when it hits about 190, does the top rad hose get warm fast, like there is water flowing, or does it remain cold until temp hits 230-240.
#14
RE: strange acting thermostat
sorry, shotgunning a bunch of questions..
1. sorry, i have to ask.. you are installing the t-stat sensor down, inside the manifold right ?
the sensor i broke i unscrewed out of the manifold near the thermostat and the heater hose. i just screwed in the new one and plugged it in.
2. and you install t-stat first, down inside the little dimple in the manifold, and then the gasket on top of that, right ?
i did put the TS in first and then the gasket.
3. any sloshing sounds behind the dash. air can disrupt things.
i do have the gurgling near the core but now my heat works again even with it.
4. rad overflow tank full up to min or max.
it's up to max now.
5. rad cap all the way on good and tight.
that's another thing i replaced. new cap.
6. no leaks anywhere.
i seem to smell antifreeze (under hood, not in cab) but i can't find a leak. i'm hoping it's just burning off some i spilled.
7. both new t-stats have acted exactly the same right?
they both did exactly the same thing.
8. what did the original t-stat do ?
it acted normal. it went up about 200 and just stayed there.
9. how old is water pump ?
less than a year. the old one started to leak i swapped it out.
10. does wp feel ok ? no play, no slop, no leaks, no rattle.
haven't checked it.
11. did it appear to overheat and act this same way with the orig temp sensor, or is this one unique ? if its unique, i quess it could be bad, if it acts the same as the old one, then i doubt it.
these problems started with this most recent work which included the new TS and the new sensor.
13. does it act the same way sitting in the driveway as it does driving down the road.
same thing
14. when starting up cold, how long does it take the temp gauge to get up to about 190.
oh it takes a couple miles of city driving i guess. it seems like a normal time. but then it just keeps going up to 240 until it comes back down to 210. freaks me out everytime.
15. when it hits about 190, does the top rad hose get warm fast, like there is water flowing, or does it remain cold until temp hits 230-240.
i will check that. good tip.
thank you for your help.
#15
RE: strange acting thermostat
ORIGINAL: greenmachine
I have never experienced this problem but have heard about it. I was told that it is caused by a pocket of air that is stuck under your thermostat. The fix for that is to buy a thermostat with a bleed-by hole or just drill one in it yourself(old school).
I have never experienced this problem but have heard about it. I was told that it is caused by a pocket of air that is stuck under your thermostat. The fix for that is to buy a thermostat with a bleed-by hole or just drill one in it yourself(old school).
The reason air needs to be "burped" out of the system is that water (or antifreeze) has a cooling capicity 13 times greater than air (13:1) It doesnt take Einstine to see why that would be an issue.
ORIGINAL: danm9
4. rad overflow tank full up to min or max.
it's up to max now.
4. rad overflow tank full up to min or max.
it's up to max now.
#17
RE: strange acting thermostat
yes.
the only reason you want to have the overflow tank between min and max is that if it does push out some pressure, and then sucks it back in when cool, you want it to suck in some coolant instead of air from an empty tank. i had a little air trapped last year with the heater gurgling sound, and as it worked itself out, the level in the overflow tank dropped a little each day.
hey, sorry, but i got to ask one more time, when you installed the t-stat did you put the copper colored sensor thing down, so the little round dome was pointed up. i hate to say it but the initial overheat sounds like something that would happen if the t-stat was upside down.
did you try feeling the top rad hose when temp gauge hits about 190. should get real hot if t-stat is opening up.
the only reason you want to have the overflow tank between min and max is that if it does push out some pressure, and then sucks it back in when cool, you want it to suck in some coolant instead of air from an empty tank. i had a little air trapped last year with the heater gurgling sound, and as it worked itself out, the level in the overflow tank dropped a little each day.
hey, sorry, but i got to ask one more time, when you installed the t-stat did you put the copper colored sensor thing down, so the little round dome was pointed up. i hate to say it but the initial overheat sounds like something that would happen if the t-stat was upside down.
did you try feeling the top rad hose when temp gauge hits about 190. should get real hot if t-stat is opening up.
#18