*Post Header Install/Symptoms* (Fresh Start)
ORIGINAL: ICEMAN_CH
20DodgeNeon
When you get the truck back the first thing you need to do it this. Hold the odometer reset button down and turn the igntion on. Watch wich lights come on. Check for the light that looks like an engine. If that dosn't come on then you have a burnt bulb and there could have been other codes that you didn't know about before you reset the PCM.Next turn the key off and then back to the ignition on postion three time then watch the odemeter and write down any codes you get.Next go down to the tool shop and buy an O2 remover. It's basically a funny shapped socket. Then Jump under the truck and switch the rear O2 sensor with the Front O2 sensor and see how it runs. Don't just switch there positions. Dissconect them and reconnect them in the differnt positions.IT should only take about 15-20 mins. Then reset the PCM. Then drive the truck and post your results. If you don't do this then there is nothing this forum can do for you. This is one of the first dignostic steps to find out what is wrong with the truck. I understand you don't have time or money for alot of crap but you are spending way more time and money by not trying these basic steps.
20DodgeNeon
When you get the truck back the first thing you need to do it this. Hold the odometer reset button down and turn the igntion on. Watch wich lights come on. Check for the light that looks like an engine. If that dosn't come on then you have a burnt bulb and there could have been other codes that you didn't know about before you reset the PCM.Next turn the key off and then back to the ignition on postion three time then watch the odemeter and write down any codes you get.Next go down to the tool shop and buy an O2 remover. It's basically a funny shapped socket. Then Jump under the truck and switch the rear O2 sensor with the Front O2 sensor and see how it runs. Don't just switch there positions. Dissconect them and reconnect them in the differnt positions.IT should only take about 15-20 mins. Then reset the PCM. Then drive the truck and post your results. If you don't do this then there is nothing this forum can do for you. This is one of the first dignostic steps to find out what is wrong with the truck. I understand you don't have time or money for alot of crap but you are spending way more time and money by not trying these basic steps.
How did the mechanic make the 02 splice? Did he cut the original wire, or piggy back splice on to it (the latter would have been better)? Did he use wire nuts or something instead of solder? Also, how did xskyline do his?
That's true, nobody is listenting to me, and they are just making their own **** up. Those ***s said "tune-up", obviously wasn't the case. I wish I knew how he spliced it, but I cannot tell from looking at it, I don't know enough about it unfortunately. I think he'll know how to fix it though. I haven't gone to him yet saying the truck wasn't running good. The 2nd time was strictly just getting the cat after the y-pipe, the truck had been running fine enough that it wasn't notable to mention it running poorly. I barely limped it to the shop from the dealer though. I'd be driving and the power would absolutely just cut out. I'd be going 50mph and then all of a sudden I'd feel like I wasn't even holding the gas down, then suddenly the tranny would snap back in and the power would come back, it was a hideous ride over. Now, could one run a new wire that is stock that could reach the cat in the new position it is in without having to splice it and ****? I also noticed that even when the truck is in neutral, when I rev it now, its affected as well. It can't even get to 4,000rpms when I floor it, so it's all around doing this to the truck. I'm also noticing that when I first turn the key on the truck, the fuel pump doesn't engage as long as it used to, it just initiates very briefly...could this be something to look at as well? Anyway, tomorrow the truck's main purpose now is to make it run right. When I said run like it did before, I meant run good. I didnt get headers for sound exclusively, the truck was already retarded loud before them. It was a factor, but horsepower was the reason I got them. Tomorrow, my goal is to make him fix anything that is sketchy. He's going to run his own diagnostics on the truck himself, but I will let him know what I think it is. I just got keep my cool, I know it's gonna be something silly, and we are all touching on it. I will keep everyone here posted on what he says. Stay tuned guys
it has too be what he spliced the wireor the cat, becasue it never started doing this stuff till the second time you gave it too him. i hope this guys know your getting really serious.and he prob knows what he did wrong.good luck
Dude, before you do anything else... just check your fuel presure...
Someone correct me if this is not the proper way, but should be right... turn the key on but not started, leave it on... wait like 20 sec just be make sure its pumped up... get a fuel presure gauge (autozone might lend one) and fine the sherader (sp?) valve on the fuel rail and check it just as you were checking the air in your tires... Not all rams have the vavle on the fuel line but most do.
Someone correct me if this is not the proper way, but should be right... turn the key on but not started, leave it on... wait like 20 sec just be make sure its pumped up... get a fuel presure gauge (autozone might lend one) and fine the sherader (sp?) valve on the fuel rail and check it just as you were checking the air in your tires... Not all rams have the vavle on the fuel line but most do.
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
How did the mechanic make the 02 splice? Did he cut the original wire, or piggy back splice on to it (the latter would have been better)? Did he use wire nuts or something instead of solder? Also, how did xskyline do his?
How did the mechanic make the 02 splice? Did he cut the original wire, or piggy back splice on to it (the latter would have been better)? Did he use wire nuts or something instead of solder? Also, how did xskyline do his?


Sounds sweet man. Skyline, how did your truck run prior to the rear sim, in other words, did you ever experience your truck going through the bullcrap it did? Did you ever splice your wires, or did you just never plug your rear o2 in? Or did you have it plugged in still?
***Also, I think some people are getting confused here (probably my fault). The truck started acting up the first time I got it back even before he spliced the wires. So I don't know if he did any splicing the first time or not when he originally had it butted up against the passenger header collector. The 2nd day of the headers, that's when the truck began randomly shutting down on me in the middle of the roads. And then slowly over time, the poor ideling, and random shutting off became worse and worse..
***Also, I think some people are getting confused here (probably my fault). The truck started acting up the first time I got it back even before he spliced the wires. So I don't know if he did any splicing the first time or not when he originally had it butted up against the passenger header collector. The 2nd day of the headers, that's when the truck began randomly shutting down on me in the middle of the roads. And then slowly over time, the poor ideling, and random shutting off became worse and worse..
wow what a **** up this is def something i need to look out for running tru duals in my near future the one thingh on my side is my buddy is a perf muffler certified tech who will take care of me....hopefully i wont run into this .....j
Is this mechanic that put your headers in the same one that gutted your cat (which is probably when he took the CEL light out, because that would cause it to throw one.)? If it's the same mechanic I think you should hold it over his head that he can get a pretty big fine for doing that, way more expensive than replacing EVERY part on your truck. I know that's a nice little piece of leverage I'd like to have IF it's the same mechanic.



