For those who have done the plenum repair - parts list
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
Hope this clears it up for you all. I'm starting to see some of the difference between this '97 intake and my '99. One other difference is that on the driver side of the intake, mine only has one vacuum port for the brake booster. The driver side of this '97 intake has two vacuum ports. I bought a little vacuum port cover to solve that little issue too. Hope there are not any other differences that I am not seeing yet.
Hope this clears it up for you all. I'm starting to see some of the difference between this '97 intake and my '99. One other difference is that on the driver side of the intake, mine only has one vacuum port for the brake booster. The driver side of this '97 intake has two vacuum ports. I bought a little vacuum port cover to solve that little issue too. Hope there are not any other differences that I am not seeing yet.
I thought there was a year around 99 or maybe 2000 where Dodge switched the PCV valve from the driver's side to the passenger side, (and then apparently back again as my intake has one small vac inlet on the passenger side for the accessories and then 2 on the driver's side for the brake booster and PCV). That might be why you have 2 on the side you think you shouldn't. Which side is the PCV on on your vehicle?
It's on the passenger side, but there is also enough ports on the passenger side of this intake to make that work. It has two on both sides. Mine only has 2 on the passenger side, and 1 on the driver side.
ORIGINAL: rabbler
The gaskets don't come with the plenum kit?
The gaskets don't come with the plenum kit?
That sounds better. It didn't make sense that they would give you end seals and not manifold to head gaskets.
A few tips for you if you like.
1 Use a bit of contact cement on the intake gaskets to stick them to the cyl head. If you don't get the manifold in place perfect the 1st time you plop it down, the gaskets can shift out of place.
2 dab some RTV in the corners where the head meets the block
3 use some pipe sealant on all sensors that screw in to the manifold.
4 be careful not to ding the oil sending unit installing the manifold. If it looks oily under the sending unit connectorcap change it while the manifold is off. (much easier)
5 Torque everything properly
Good luck
Have fun
A few tips for you if you like.
1 Use a bit of contact cement on the intake gaskets to stick them to the cyl head. If you don't get the manifold in place perfect the 1st time you plop it down, the gaskets can shift out of place.
2 dab some RTV in the corners where the head meets the block
3 use some pipe sealant on all sensors that screw in to the manifold.
4 be careful not to ding the oil sending unit installing the manifold. If it looks oily under the sending unit connectorcap change it while the manifold is off. (much easier)
5 Torque everything properly
Good luck
Have fun
hey silver thanks for the site i will def order that one its a better deal with everything included that guy oughta join this forum and get some business from all of us he's got the better deal and im sure alot of us are going to order from them also what kind of discount do forum users get with a purchase of a fastman tb?
ok thanks ill ask him cause even the website says prices thru last yr sometime not sure there right....thanks good luck on the work and lemme know how it was ....j
what did u pay for the o-rings and where did u get them im thinkin on doing the kegger mod while i have it off it may be worth it...unless i can find a spare on in the next few weeks you really got me thinkin.....j
The o-rings I bought ran $12.95 for each set of 8 from Summit Racing. They are made by Standard Motor Products and the material is Viton. You should make sure they are Viton, Viton ETP, Chemraz, Kalrez, or Simriz material. Viton ETP is considered the best from what i've read. Be cautious about buying o-rings at the parts store because they often don't realize that the o-rings need to be made of special material. For example, I called Advance Auto when I was looking for o-rings. They quoted me $2.60 for a pack of 16. I asked what they were made of (since the price was ridiculously cheap), and she said "ummmmm, rubber". These cheap o-rings will dissolve over time with exposure to gas, and may not hold up to the pressure requirements. Make sure you get the good stuff.
Here's a good chart that shows the various o-rings and the suitablity for common applications:
http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm
Here's a good chart that shows the various o-rings and the suitablity for common applications:
http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
Well, need to correct myself. I found something in the service manual that states that there is only one sensor on newer trucks (called an ECT actually, Engine Coolant Temp sensor instead of CTS as I stated earlier). My '99 is this way. On older trucks, there were two, one for the PCM (the ECT sensor) and one for the temp gauge and warning light (a sending unit). The manifold I am modding has two ports like this, so it is that way for at least '97 and older. It has the one I pointed to in the picture, and one to the right of the thermostat housing. So the one on the right would have been for the sensor, and the one on the left would have been for the sending unit. Since i'm going to stay with the single ECT that my PCM needs, I just picked up a little plug for that other hole. I also picked up the heater inlet nipple that I needed thanks to your pictures nolazach, thanks!
Well, need to correct myself. I found something in the service manual that states that there is only one sensor on newer trucks (called an ECT actually, Engine Coolant Temp sensor instead of CTS as I stated earlier). My '99 is this way. On older trucks, there were two, one for the PCM (the ECT sensor) and one for the temp gauge and warning light (a sending unit). The manifold I am modding has two ports like this, so it is that way for at least '97 and older. It has the one I pointed to in the picture, and one to the right of the thermostat housing. So the one on the right would have been for the sensor, and the one on the left would have been for the sending unit. Since i'm going to stay with the single ECT that my PCM needs, I just picked up a little plug for that other hole. I also picked up the heater inlet nipple that I needed thanks to your pictures nolazach, thanks!
Yeah I had checked the pdf manual I had got from this site a while back, and it had that on it. I guess they changed it up after 1998. I had way better pictures of that part. I had just found out that my grandfather went to the hospital and I needed to go up there, while I was working on hosting the pics and uploading it, etc. I was just really hurried, I see what I did wrong in the img code. Glad you could get that part though. Like I said I am doing the same thing with my Intake too. Just cleaned it, haven't cut it yet. I should have waited a week, I like to park my truck out by the Parade route and hold a spot with it. I also started and then realized I needed this and that and have to wait on stuff to come in. I would have planned better, but my water pump was on its last leg. Well very glad for this site and all the help you get here.
ORIGINAL: Silver_DodgeSo the APS kit really is an all inclusive kit. It has the aluminum belly pan, the new revised Mopar plenum gasket, belly pan bolts, front and rear manifold gaskets, left and right side manifold gaskets, intake manifold bolts, and instructions. That definetly works out to be cheaper then the Hughes kit that you have to buy the intake bolts and the side gaskets seperate.



