Tach selection
The aeroforce thing has inputs, where you can input data from various sending units. This one does to, but not fuel pressure. If it had that otion I would have already ordered one. The fuel pressure gauge is the one that I would be replacing with one of those.
Any verdict on the tach?
Any verdict on the tach?
The VDO tach is at my house, and will be installed this weekend. Still going to play around with the spare gauge cluster I bought too. The tach in it worked great, just that the odometer read NO BUS.
Didn't you say it worked for a few minutes and then stopped? I wonder if it isn't a mileage related issue where only the- I hate to say it- dealership can program it. Maybe it has some kind of vin code in it where they have to match- keep people from grabbing 20k gauge clusters and putting them in 200k trucks.
I was down at pepboys earlier today and saw a 2.5" diameter sunpro tach for $30.00. Guage matched the guages for my truck with black backing and the solid black center piece attachted to the red indicator. Only thing about it was that the outside perimeter had crome trim. Didn't see the body of it since it was behind the glass but, still, looked good for $30.00.
ORIGINAL: mopowar
Didn't you say it worked for a few minutes and then stopped? I wonder if it isn't a mileage related issue where only the- I hate to say it- dealership can program it. Maybe it has some kind of vin code in it where they have to match- keep people from grabbing 20k gauge clusters and putting them in 200k trucks.
Didn't you say it worked for a few minutes and then stopped? I wonder if it isn't a mileage related issue where only the- I hate to say it- dealership can program it. Maybe it has some kind of vin code in it where they have to match- keep people from grabbing 20k gauge clusters and putting them in 200k trucks.
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
Ya, the odometer reading was good for about 15 seconds, then read no bus. Could be a mileage thing like you say, but I know of others who have done the same swap I did with out any issue. Makes me think the cluster is bad or not talking to the CCD correctly.
Ya, the odometer reading was good for about 15 seconds, then read no bus. Could be a mileage thing like you say, but I know of others who have done the same swap I did with out any issue. Makes me think the cluster is bad or not talking to the CCD correctly.
Juast scatter shooting to see if I hit on something here, or get you to think in a different direction.
Not sure. I didn't get much done on the VDO tach today. I spent most of my free time moving my tach down to my new dual guage pod (pics later). Ran the wire from the coil to the tach, and put the gauge in the pod. Then it got cold, so I stopped for the day. Still need to run power to it.
So I got my Painless CirKit Boss fuse block installed tonight. It's weatherproof, and has 3 constant hot 20 amp circuits, and 4 ignition switched 20 amp circuits. I used 1 ignition switched leg to wire up my VDO tach, and one to wire up my diff temp gauge and rewire my trans temp gauge (my diff and trans temp gauges are now mounted in a dual gauge pod below the ashtray). Then I used another to rewire my fog lights so they were on the ignition switch now. I may rewire my a/f meter too, and maybe my Sirius, but I ran out of time tonight.
The fuse box was easy to install. It connects directly to the battery, and has an inline circuit breaker. To power it, you just tap into an ignition switched fuse in the fuse box to trigger the relay. I had to use a fuse from the dash fuse panel (I used the wiper motor fuse) because I couldn't find any ignition switched fuses in the main fuse box under the hood. They were all constant hots, and the ones that weren't didn't work with the taps that came with the Cirkit fuse block. No big deal though. It's a nice kit, and I feel a lot better about powering my accessories through it then from the stock wires (that weren't designed to have accessories spliced to them).
I'll try to get some pictures of everything when I get a chance.
The fuse box was easy to install. It connects directly to the battery, and has an inline circuit breaker. To power it, you just tap into an ignition switched fuse in the fuse box to trigger the relay. I had to use a fuse from the dash fuse panel (I used the wiper motor fuse) because I couldn't find any ignition switched fuses in the main fuse box under the hood. They were all constant hots, and the ones that weren't didn't work with the taps that came with the Cirkit fuse block. No big deal though. It's a nice kit, and I feel a lot better about powering my accessories through it then from the stock wires (that weren't designed to have accessories spliced to them).
I'll try to get some pictures of everything when I get a chance.
Alright, here's a pic of the new tach mounted in my steering column gauge pod. Works great, looks stock. I even installed a green bulb cover for the lightbulb so the backlighting at night matches the dash lights perfectly.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/17C36983B2B64DE1ADDFF1F69C06FE81.jpg[/IMG]
Then, a picture of my old trans temp gauge and my new diff temp gauge down in the new pod I got from NewSouth Performance (http://www.newsouthperformance.com/upods.htm). Both also have green bulb covers. The diff temp gauge has the backlighting wired up, but the sending unit isn't installed yet. Waiting to find a new diff cover for that. I plan to paint the pod to match the gray plastic that is in that area down there, just haven't gotten to it yet. Dealerships sell little spray cans of perfect color matches to any interior code. I used it when I did the grab handle on the a-pillar, and you can't even tell that the handle I used came out of a dark gray interior truck.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/E7F222C03FA947B2BFDEFB3273B16A32.jpg[/IMG]
Lastly, the Painless Cirkit Boss Fuse block installed on my firewall next to the brake booster. The green, purple, and orange wires in a loop there are the constant hot's that I haven't run anywhere yet. I ran all the switched circuits into the cab, figuring I was likely to use them all in there anyway.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/0DE3FA6DD7EC47A19018EBA2CF7C7345.jpg[/IMG]
The fuse in the factory fuse block that I tapped into to activate the relay to power the new fuse block.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/88D9887F010745D9861D0F0663491688.jpg[/IMG]
A picture of the inline circuit breaker that connects the fuse block to the battery.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/8843B0028FA34B8988A46291E7AC082E.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/17C36983B2B64DE1ADDFF1F69C06FE81.jpg[/IMG]
Then, a picture of my old trans temp gauge and my new diff temp gauge down in the new pod I got from NewSouth Performance (http://www.newsouthperformance.com/upods.htm). Both also have green bulb covers. The diff temp gauge has the backlighting wired up, but the sending unit isn't installed yet. Waiting to find a new diff cover for that. I plan to paint the pod to match the gray plastic that is in that area down there, just haven't gotten to it yet. Dealerships sell little spray cans of perfect color matches to any interior code. I used it when I did the grab handle on the a-pillar, and you can't even tell that the handle I used came out of a dark gray interior truck.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/E7F222C03FA947B2BFDEFB3273B16A32.jpg[/IMG]
Lastly, the Painless Cirkit Boss Fuse block installed on my firewall next to the brake booster. The green, purple, and orange wires in a loop there are the constant hot's that I haven't run anywhere yet. I ran all the switched circuits into the cab, figuring I was likely to use them all in there anyway.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/0DE3FA6DD7EC47A19018EBA2CF7C7345.jpg[/IMG]
The fuse in the factory fuse block that I tapped into to activate the relay to power the new fuse block.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/88D9887F010745D9861D0F0663491688.jpg[/IMG]
A picture of the inline circuit breaker that connects the fuse block to the battery.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/8843B0028FA34B8988A46291E7AC082E.jpg[/IMG]



