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Rear diff problems

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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #11  
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Yeah seriously... I'm stuck with 33" tires until I get out of 3.55 land [&o]

Silver, how long did you take cleaning that differential out? You know you just have to fill it up with nasty *** gear oil again

This would be prime time to get yourself a fancy cover for the back since you already got your ARB one up front.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #12  
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Default RE: Rear diff problems

ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

Yeah seriously... I'm stuck with 33" tires until I get out of 3.55 land [&o]
Not to thread jack, but I will always be in 3.55 land because I will never be able to afford Gears + install + Lift. Yea sure I could install gears, but there are just some things I dont feel comfortable about doing myself. Plus I hear the D44 is a BI+CH. Oh, lets not forget the carrier split so I'll need a new one in the front. Stuff adds up quick. I think the biggest lift this truck will ever see is about .5" when i move from 245, to 265 of the same size. The only way that would change is if I get an awesome deal somewhere which is known to happen. Maybe years and years down the road... then we'll see lol.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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silver, u got alot to answer here,maybe u could do it all at once.ive only have only rebuilt diff in chevys but have seen pics and stuff on dodges and one of my questions is, what are the splines for on the back side of the ring gear?also, you had put the 4.10's in, right, or were they stock.i know the 4.56's will be better for wheelin,but the 4.10's couldn't of been that bad,where you able to go 90mph no prob with them.ya, and what are you doing with the 4.10s'.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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SO MUCH FOR THAT DIFF TEMP GAUGE..LOL...JK..
you know i was thinking do you have 4x4?no diff temp in the front?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

That wouldn't have happened with a tru-trac
I don't know. When I was researching them I read about some people blowing up the Detroit Tru-Tracs. This is the first issue I have heard about anyone having with a Auburn. Including people like RM_Indy that use it for racing so it sees abuse I'm sure.

I think both of them are great units it just depends on which one fits your needs more as both apparently can blow up. I still thought the Auburn would be better for me so thats what I went with.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #16  
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ORIGINAL: hometheaterman

ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

That wouldn't have happened with a tru-trac
I don't know. When I was researching them I read about some people blowing up the Detroit Tru-Tracs. This is the first issue I have heard about anyone having with a Auburn. Including people like RM_Indy that use it for racing so it sees abuse I'm sure.

I think both of them are great units it just depends on which one fits your needs more as both apparently can blow up. I still thought the Auburn would be better for me so thats what I went with.
I was just giving Silver grief
I hear alot of good about the auburn LSDs. I do like the idea of the tru-tracs using gears instead of clutches though.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 01:37 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

ORIGINAL: hometheaterman

ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

That wouldn't have happened with a tru-trac
I don't know. When I was researching them I read about some people blowing up the Detroit Tru-Tracs. This is the first issue I have heard about anyone having with a Auburn. Including people like RM_Indy that use it for racing so it sees abuse I'm sure.

I think both of them are great units it just depends on which one fits your needs more as both apparently can blow up. I still thought the Auburn would be better for me so thats what I went with.
I was just giving Silver grief
I hear alot of good about the auburn LSDs. I do like the idea of the tru-tracs using gears instead of clutches though.
I have to agree I do like the idea of gears too. I just had some people tell me with a manual they seemed to cause a jerk when you shifted but that it didn't seem to be noticable with an auto. This made me want to be cautious of them after some of the shops told me that. Then I got to reading while the Auburn will wear out I heard of people blowing up the Detroit and most shops seemed to tell me the Detroit wasn't quite as street friendly. All this and the Auburn being cheaper is what made me go with it. I think I paid like $357 or something for my Auburn then $15 shipping and $18 tax since I lived in the same state.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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Default RE: Rear diff problems

ORIGINAL: jnellydodge

Silver--if you do decide to go with the 4.56's what would you do with your 4.10's ?
Not sure. I'd probably keep them or sell them. Haven't really given it much thought.



ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer
That wouldn't have happened with a tru-trac
Oh well that's not a very exepensive rebuilt. Glad you found yourself and excuse to get new gears (4.88)
You know, I was pretty sure I had decided once and for all on 4.56. But, now that i'm looking for a little beater car to commute to work in, the truck will be used almost exclusevly for towing and work, and driving in the winter when the little car won't do. Makes me think 4.88's might be more appropriate again. hmmmmmm.


ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer
Silver, how long did you take cleaning that differential out? You know you just have to fill it up with nasty *** gear oil again
This would be prime time to get yourself a fancy cover for the back since you already got your ARB one up front.
I only cleaned it out for about 10 minutes. I did an extra thourough job like that because I wanted to make sure I got every bit of metal particles out, and wanted it clean so I could do a thourough inspection of everything. I'm actually looking at a diffcover now, but it is aluminum. Not sure I want that or not.



ORIGINAL: pipeking
silver, u got alot to answer here,maybe u could do it all at once.ive only have only rebuilt diff in chevys but have seen pics and stuff on dodges and one of my questions is, what are the splines for on the back side of the ring gear?also, you had put the 4.10's in, right, or were they stock.i know the 4.56's will be better for wheelin,but the 4.10's couldn't of been that bad,where you able to go 90mph no prob with them.ya, and what are you doing with the 4.10s'.
Do you mean the exciter ring?
Yes, I had 3.55 originally, and when I went to 33's, I upgraded to 4.10's. Now I have 35's, and they are aweful. It's a lot like the truck was stock, only maybe slightly worse. I never drive my truck 90 mph,....... it's a truck.






 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 03:48 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Rear diff problems

ORIGINAL: hometheaterman

ORIGINAL: Cereal Killer

That wouldn't have happened with a tru-trac
I don't know. When I was researching them I read about some people blowing up the Detroit Tru-Tracs. This is the first issue I have heard about anyone having with a Auburn. Including people like RM_Indy that use it for racing so it sees abuse I'm sure
If you read into it more, you will infact find that detroit truetracs had a habit of blowing up, but that was with the original design when they first came out. They changed from fine thread to course thread bolts (or vise versa, i forget which way) and that fixed the problem. I have not heard of anyone who blew up a new one... I think the PS website had a thread of one blowing up, but at the same time, check the thread date. However if you do have a link of one blowing up with a new one, please send me a pm with the link.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Rear diff problems

Silver go with the 4.88's :P i love those debates.. nothing ever gets solved. anyway it is a great excuse to upgrade
 
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