Haha I'm the same way and Mobil seems to be good stuff I'm just partial to Royal Purple. I kind of wish I could run synthetic in my rear too. I kind of miss that even though performance wise I can't really tell a difference. I tried to get the best non synthetic I could for the rear.

I just use The Right Stuff because the shop I used to work at always used it and they loved it. Maybe check it out next time. It isn't super cheap but then again I don't know what regular RTV costs either.

Changing this was easy wasn't it? You glad you saved yourself the money? You going to change your own oil now?

I can really save money with basic stuff like this although I'm quilty of paying a shop to do it before. They did the front last time because they had to do the seals so they had to put something in there so I just took them the RP. The rear they did the Auburn so had to do something.

I do most of the basic stuff on here and some of the advanced stuff if I have time and know how to do it or think I can I try. Some of the major stuff like getting the Auburn put in I take it to the shop. I took it to them for them to do the pleneum too although thinking back on it I probably could have and should have done it. I just didn't want to mess with it so I got the APS kit and took it to them.

 

Change your transfer case fluid too while you're waiting.
ATF Or ATF+4 (better) is all you need
Unless they did it with your trans rebuild...
I would recommend a synthetic 75w140 for your rear diff but a 75w90 is also just fine.

 

Yes defiantly, you read my mind. I'm not sure if they changed it or not. I know when it was at the transmission shop they replaced the transfer case seal, but not sure if they did the fluid. I just got that Haynes manual, and it teaches you what to do, so I'll follow that, and do that Sunday or Monday. But yes hometheater, you're right, I'm very happy I did it. It was actually really fun. I saved myself over a hundred dollars doing that too. I went through a whole winter not getting it changed because I couldn't afford it, when I hadn't even thought of doing something simple like that myself. But that's my plan, I want to start small, and slowly get better. My brother and I have started buying a lot more tools (jackstands, floorjack, sears tool kit, oil catcher). For instance, me and my brother are going to replace the shocks on my truck this summer. Just going to start small like you said. And yes, defiantly going to start doing our engine oil changes too, it's just so simple, and it's fun. It costs me $70 to get an oil change, it's insane. But by next week, I will have Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil in both differentials. And I will have ATF4 in the transfer case (any tips I should know before I do that?), and then maybe in a week or two, I will do the oil change for the motor and put Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in there. It's just nice becoming more and more familiar with my truck. It's also nice becoming familiar how to operate just basic hand tools. Of course we live in a small neighborhood, and EVERYBODY notices my brothers and mine trucks lol. They are like elephants trying to hide behind trees. They are always like "You guys are always tinkering with your trucks". It's a little embarrassing lol, we are always handwashing or detailing our vehicles on the street, or doing something silly to them. But anyways getting off task. I will do the transfer case fluid change Sunday, but as I asked before, any tips I should know??? Thanks

 

Have you run Conventional or Syn oil before this?

If you've run dino oil, I would suggest running 4 more quarts of it with 1 quart of Marvel's Mystery Oil. The MMO will desludge the engine and then you can dump it all out and run Syn for extended intervals (5K+) without as many problems. If you have a NAPA store near you, I highly recommend the NAPA GOLD oil filters.

 

The shocks are a fun project. Give yourself a few hours lol. We changed them on my buddys truck and the steering dampener was a B! to get out. Tried a BFH (Big Friggin hammer) and... that rod did not wanna back out. The solution was to throw the front axle on jackstands just enough to get the wheels off the ground a hair. Start her up. I turned the wheel back and fourth and he hit it with a hammer. Out she came. The shock on the driverside takes some manuevering to get out since the drivers side is so crouded with electronics. Start on the passenger side. The rear shocks were easy as well. Mount your top bolts first, then attach to the perch hangers. The one good thing is the tab's on nut's so you dont have to hold the nut. Just get her started and crank away. You'll see what I mean when ya do it. Torque spec's are in your manual. Just grab a buddy when you do it and ull be fine. Wish ya luck!

 

I hope his shocks aren't like the ones on the 2000 or so styled F-150's. Shocks are usually a very simple job but when I worked at a shop we had to do them on a F-150 I would say around 2000 model probably. It was that style anyway. I actually couldn't get them off so I went and got the owner. He came over looked at them then went and got the torch and cut them off. It was soo tight to the frame I think it was on the rear you couldn't get a rachet or wrench onto the bolts. Hopefully his aren't like this. Normally shocks are easy.


As for the transfer case fluid just remove the skid plate as it makes it easy to get to and not quite as big of a mess. Take out the lower drain plug and let it drain. Then put it back in and fill it up through the fill plug and fill it until it comes out then put that back in and you are done.

Go to Wal-Mart and get some Mopar ATF+4 transmission fluid to put in it. I forgot how many quarts it takes. Wal-Mart sells Mopar branded stuff which when it comes to transmission fluid is the only brand I'd run in these trucks. Well, it's like $4.28 a quart there and the dealer sells the same stuff for $11 a quart. Exact same stuff. Use that in your transfer case incase the seal goes and it mixes with the transmission fluid you want it to be the same.

This job is super easy and shouldn't take long at all. You do however need a big allen wrench. I have a Craftsman set of Allen wrenchs another few random ones and a Snap On set and none of them had one big enough in it. I had to go borrow one from my Grandfather. I forgot what size it was. I'm not sure if the hex sockets I now have are big enough or not. When you are at Wal-Mart for the fluid might be worth picking up a set of Stanley hex sockets. They are like $13-14 which is much better than Sears $40 or whatever and they seem to be of decent quality. For what little I use them I wouldn't pay the expensive price for a Snap On or Craftsman set. If it doesn't have one big enough you may have to go to sears and get a individual allen wrench as it takes a pretty big one.


If you have any other questions on this or anything else feel free to ask and I will try to help.

 

I've always had shops put Mobil 1 Synthetic in, but I'm just tired paying $70 or so for somebody to do it for me. So if I've always stuck with mobil 1 synthetic, is it ok to just pour that in there? Also, how many quarts should I buy for the engine oil? And yes, I will for sure get the NAPA gold filter if that's what you suggest squirrels.

Hometheater, how many quarts of ATF+4 should I buy to do the transfer case?

 

You only need to buy 2 quarts, I changed mine out a week ago and I believe it took around 1.5 quarts.

 

engine oil is a little over 5 quarts. Buy 6. The transfer case is... .. well I honestly dont know. When I did mine, I spilt so much down my arm because of the awkard position. Buy3 quarts. You will probably use two. And have an extra on hand for your tranny. Having extra never hurts.

 

As for how much ATF+4 for the transfer case I can't remember. Wish I could sorry. Maybe someone else will remember. Sorry.

As for the motor oil it takes about 5 quarts maybe slightly less but you need to buy 5 quarts. I but Royal Purple by the case since I run it in all 4 vehicles so I have a few cases of it sitting in the garage.

Anyway the best way to do it is put 4 quarts in it and start it up. Let it run for about 10 seconds so it fills up the oil filter. Then shut it down and go back and check it on the dipstick and add as needed until full. It should be around 5 quarts but might be slightly less.

BTW as another tip when you take the old oil filter off make 100% sure that the gasket is still on the old oil filter. If not get it off the block before you put the new oil filter on. If it stays stuck to the block and you don't notice and stick the new filter on so basically it having 2 gaskets it will leak. This isn't hard to do just something to watch out for. I've only had 1 time when working at a shop the old gasket didn't come off but you need to watch for it. Then maybe put a little oil around the new gasket on the new filter.


As for oil filters I've heard good things about WIX filters which is who I think makes the Napa Gold ones. I put one on my 96
Honda this last time.

I however on my truck run a Purolator Pure One. I've been a Purolator fan for a while now and thats probably what I will stick with. Basically just stay away from Fram. I don't think you could go wrong with a Purolator, Amsoil, K&N, or Napa Gold Filter. I used to run a K&N on my old Honda and the nut on the end was nice but I got tired of paying $11 for a filter that other than the nut on the end I'm not sure is better than any others. I switched to Purolator and then this last time I ran a Napa Gold. I hate to say it but there is a good change I'll go back to Purolator next time as I've just always been a fan of them.

On the Chevy I run a AC Delco filter, and on the newer Honda I run a Honda filter from the dealer. I run Royal Purple oil in all of the cars.


As for just dumping Mobil 1 in there thats all you need to do since you've been running it in the past. You don't need to do anything else special. Oil changes are super simple especially on these trucks since you don't even have to jack them up.