Changing plugs and wires on the V8's sucks!
#1
Changing plugs and wires on the V8's sucks!
I have a few tips for those that plan on taking the challenge.
If you have the extra $8 or so to get a magnetic spark plug socket, DO IT! I realized this on the back two cylinders on the drivers side.
For those that think they don't need it, I strongly tell you otherwise, but a tip is to keep the heat shields for the plugs on the back two until after you put the plugs in.
Make sure you blow out the junk in the heat shield first, before you even take the old plug out.
On removing the heat shields, I used a pair of needle nose vice grips, and just twisted back and forth.
Another tip I did, and for those with the stock air intake unit, TAKE IT OFF! It helped me reach the wires ALL THE WAY IN THE BACK way easier. Putting it on is a little difficult, but not too bad.
I searched, and saw some people said use PB blaster. That's a very good idea. A couple of the plugs were a little stiff on my truck, but not stiff enough to make it too hard (no pun intended).
For you that may be short (like me, as I am 5'7"), and have a lifted truck, climbing into the engine bay might be necessary. I wish I would have taken the battery out, as the space it takes up could have been used as a seat.
I gapped my plugs at .40. I may go back to .35, as I noticed a tick under pressure, but we will see after the oil change if it's still there.
If you have the extra $8 or so to get a magnetic spark plug socket, DO IT! I realized this on the back two cylinders on the drivers side.
For those that think they don't need it, I strongly tell you otherwise, but a tip is to keep the heat shields for the plugs on the back two until after you put the plugs in.
Make sure you blow out the junk in the heat shield first, before you even take the old plug out.
On removing the heat shields, I used a pair of needle nose vice grips, and just twisted back and forth.
Another tip I did, and for those with the stock air intake unit, TAKE IT OFF! It helped me reach the wires ALL THE WAY IN THE BACK way easier. Putting it on is a little difficult, but not too bad.
I searched, and saw some people said use PB blaster. That's a very good idea. A couple of the plugs were a little stiff on my truck, but not stiff enough to make it too hard (no pun intended).
For you that may be short (like me, as I am 5'7"), and have a lifted truck, climbing into the engine bay might be necessary. I wish I would have taken the battery out, as the space it takes up could have been used as a seat.
I gapped my plugs at .40. I may go back to .35, as I noticed a tick under pressure, but we will see after the oil change if it's still there.
#2
Why remove the heat shields, they are there for a purpose. And every spark plug socket I have ever bought has a foam or rubber insert that holds the plug, but better than that is a 6 inch piece of 5/16 fuel hose slid over the end of the plug works better than a socket to start the threads. But yes, you have to remove the intake to maintain any kind of sanity during the process. And btw, I hope you replaced the cap and rotor too? Or your going to have the same fun again!
#3
i removed my heat shields. i tried to think of some useful purpose for them and came up empty. all i can see that they do is
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
zman - excellent tip on using vac hose to start the plug. that works for a lot of cars including honda accord.
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
zman - excellent tip on using vac hose to start the plug. that works for a lot of cars including honda accord.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 01-16-2009 at 07:12 PM.
#4
Why remove the heat shields, they are there for a purpose. And every spark plug socket I have ever bought has a foam or rubber insert that holds the plug, but better than that is a 6 inch piece of 5/16 fuel hose slid over the end of the plug works better than a socket to start the threads. But yes, you have to remove the intake to maintain any kind of sanity during the process. And btw, I hope you replaced the cap and rotor too? Or your going to have the same fun again!
i removed my heat shields. i tried to think of some useful purpose for them and came up empty. all i can see that they do is
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
#5
My dad was an automotive engineer for 20+ years. Heat shields probably cost Detroit .10 per dozen, and that money adds up. One thing Detroit DOES NOT do is spend money unnecessarily, and as such, the heat shields are there for a reason.
Now, be thankful you don't have an older Ford pickup. Those engine bays are cramped. I like that I can damn near sit inside the bay of my Dodge with plenty of room!
Now, be thankful you don't have an older Ford pickup. Those engine bays are cramped. I like that I can damn near sit inside the bay of my Dodge with plenty of room!
#6
i removed my heat shields. i tried to think of some useful purpose for them and came up empty. all i can see that they do is
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
zman - excellent tip on using vac hose to start the plug. that works for a lot of cars including honda accord.
make it harder to get the plugs out,
harder to get them back in.
excellent for dumping dirt and sand into the cylinders.
pretty good at leading you to cross thread the new plug.
oh i almost forgot - good for holding the rubber grip thats inside the plug socket.
the .50 that they cost dodge would have been better applied to the dash.
zman - excellent tip on using vac hose to start the plug. that works for a lot of cars including honda accord.
#3 that is why you use air to blow them out
#4 they actually help you guide the spark plug in straighter because they fit nicely in the heat shield not allowing you to tilt it too far.
#5 They do hold the boot, that is why you twist the boot first then pull with a spark plug wire puller if you can't do it by hand.
#7
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#8
#9
That's because you have them off more than they are on! LOL (at least lately)