Audio Gurus
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
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What he said sounds pretty good... except I would steer clear of kicker if I were you, its loud...but has no tone really...you just get the same sound on every hit. Its kind of the throw some random stuff in there for a cheap price kind of sub... Diamond audio is expensive I admit, but very worth it, they are about the top rated company on the market, now being closely followed by rockford fosgate now that the design manager for rockford fosgate is the old design manager for diamond audio when diamond was the top.
Boston is also going to be extremely expensive so I wouldnt suggest going in that direction if your looking to save money, my bostons ended up costing me 400 for the set of fronts... but they are the best speaker in all the stereo stores in the area... I have 250 watts running to each speaker in my truck(not rms) and I can just about max out the volume on those speakers just about and still have them not distorting, enough to hurt your ears because the volume, but with no loss of sound quality really. And for subwoofers, I strongly suggest rockford fosgate, I am a huge fan of their subwoofer, I have the 12 in p3 in my truck, and I just installed a 10 in p1 in my gf's volvo and both setups sound real nice, and rockford fosgate has the best warranty on the market, 1 year in store exchange on all non water non physical damage, so if you blow it and the sub is not wet or beat to hell they will return it in the store, right there, no shipping or anything to deal with. and 2 year shipping warranty, so if you pass a year then you have to ship it.
Boston is also going to be extremely expensive so I wouldnt suggest going in that direction if your looking to save money, my bostons ended up costing me 400 for the set of fronts... but they are the best speaker in all the stereo stores in the area... I have 250 watts running to each speaker in my truck(not rms) and I can just about max out the volume on those speakers just about and still have them not distorting, enough to hurt your ears because the volume, but with no loss of sound quality really. And for subwoofers, I strongly suggest rockford fosgate, I am a huge fan of their subwoofer, I have the 12 in p3 in my truck, and I just installed a 10 in p1 in my gf's volvo and both setups sound real nice, and rockford fosgate has the best warranty on the market, 1 year in store exchange on all non water non physical damage, so if you blow it and the sub is not wet or beat to hell they will return it in the store, right there, no shipping or anything to deal with. and 2 year shipping warranty, so if you pass a year then you have to ship it.
The Kickers aren't the best when it comes to sq but they aren't bad either. They are far ahead of several other brands. I think when it comes to RF vs Kicker they both are good subs and it comes down to which one you like better. It's best to try to demo them all before you buy them. I think the Infinity's have better sq than both to be honest but the Kicker was no slouch when it came to sq or volume.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,268
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Pheonix Gold makes good stuff although that seems awfully cheap. You do know you are going to need a amp to power those and you can't run them off of the head unit right? If you run the off of the head unit they will be way under powered and more than likely cause damage to the internal amp in the head unit and possible the speakers too. Under powering a speaker or sub is often worse than overpowering it as it can and will cause the amp to clip. Which causes damage to the amp and speaker.
I will show you in a second how I did my components. I mounted the tweeter over the speaker so it's all hidden. They didn't fit in the pillars where the stock one are and I didn't think they would look too good If I customized it to fit.
I will show you in a second how I did my components. I mounted the tweeter over the speaker so it's all hidden. They didn't fit in the pillars where the stock one are and I didn't think they would look too good If I customized it to fit.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
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Here you can see how I mounted the tweeters over the speakers and you can also see the mounting plate that allows you to mount 6.5"s instead of 6x9"s. I just couldn't decide where to put the tweeters and didn't want to chance messing up cutting up the pillar so I finally decided to put them here and they don't sound bad and look totally stock. You can't tell they are there.
The speaker got mounted a little turned on this door as you can see but you can't see the logo anyway with the door panel on. That's how the holes were drilled from before( I think I had them from before) so since I couldn't get it perfectly straight I didn't worry about it.
The other side is pretty much dead center for the logo though.
This is what I did on the rear.
Went from this
To this
I had those speakers up front at first but once I got the components I moved them to the rear and that's when I added the amp that powers all for of them.
The speaker got mounted a little turned on this door as you can see but you can't see the logo anyway with the door panel on. That's how the holes were drilled from before( I think I had them from before) so since I couldn't get it perfectly straight I didn't worry about it.
The other side is pretty much dead center for the logo though.
This is what I did on the rear.
Went from this
To this
I had those speakers up front at first but once I got the components I moved them to the rear and that's when I added the amp that powers all for of them.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,268
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Those want 50 watts rms which isn't as much as some but it's a lot considering most h/u's put out between 18-22 watts rms. Thats under half what those speakers need. Hold on I'm going to look up your head unit and see how many watts it puts out so I can give you an exact figure. I'm positive though it's no where near that.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,268
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http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130P300...=detailed_info
Your h/u puts out 14 watts rms.
That's claiming your h/u puts out 22 watts rms but saying that CEA rated it at 14 watts rms. The other page says 14 watts rms too so I'd say 14 is a safe bet. That's way way under the 50 those speakers need. You need 50 watts rms not peak power. A lot of h/u's say on the front face plate some huge number like 50watts x4 when in reality that number is the peak power and really means nothing. RMS which is continuous power is what you need to look at.
You need a amp with as close to 50 watts as possible to run those speakers safely without worry about causing the internal amp in your h/u to clip.
If you don't wish to run a amp to power the speakers you need to get a set of coaxial speakers not components.
I honestly don't know what size depth and height and stuff these trucks can handle so I'm not sure what to tell you to look for as far as that. Crutchfield should know but I don't off the top of my head.
Your h/u puts out 14 watts rms.
That's claiming your h/u puts out 22 watts rms but saying that CEA rated it at 14 watts rms. The other page says 14 watts rms too so I'd say 14 is a safe bet. That's way way under the 50 those speakers need. You need 50 watts rms not peak power. A lot of h/u's say on the front face plate some huge number like 50watts x4 when in reality that number is the peak power and really means nothing. RMS which is continuous power is what you need to look at.
You need a amp with as close to 50 watts as possible to run those speakers safely without worry about causing the internal amp in your h/u to clip.
If you don't wish to run a amp to power the speakers you need to get a set of coaxial speakers not components.
I honestly don't know what size depth and height and stuff these trucks can handle so I'm not sure what to tell you to look for as far as that. Crutchfield should know but I don't off the top of my head.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,268
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These are just an example. I can't say if they will fit or wont so check if you decide to buy them.
However, these are coaxial speakers.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022...2i.html?tp=105
See how they don't have the crossover and the tweeters are mounted on the speaker. See how they also are rated for anywhere from 2-60 watts rms power. So anywhere in between 2 watts and 60 should be perfectly fine for these. Even over 60 would be better than under powering them.
The ones you got need 50 watts and most components need at least that. You basically either need to get a amp or need to get a set of coaxials instead.
However, these are coaxial speakers.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022...2i.html?tp=105
See how they don't have the crossover and the tweeters are mounted on the speaker. See how they also are rated for anywhere from 2-60 watts rms power. So anywhere in between 2 watts and 60 should be perfectly fine for these. Even over 60 would be better than under powering them.
The ones you got need 50 watts and most components need at least that. You basically either need to get a amp or need to get a set of coaxials instead.
Champion
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,430
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From: NW Arkansas