Well, today I ordered the first few parts of my new project:

http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/S...d/0/rid/126429

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=atm-6949

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....er=GM-DG-17202

That stuff will hopefully get installed this weekend. Then I'll end up whipping Hemifever's butt for some more customized tunes.

Then next month I plan on heads, a Sonnax sure cure kit, and either a PML or mag-hytec trans pan. I have a whole week in the middle of the month to work on it.

Anyhow, anybody here got an A pillar gauge pod? How much of a PITA was the install? Did you have to drill to feed thru the firewall? Suggestions on what to tap into for power?

Silly as it sounds, I feel more comfortable swapping the heads than wiring up the gauges.

Oh one last thing... anybody here run a SplitSecond ARC-1? Been thinking about one for a highway mileage boost.

 

I dunno about how hard mounting and all that is going to be, but you shouldn't have a problem with getting through the firewall. There should be about a four inch round rubber plug underneath the dash about half way up. I just drilled a hole through it when I ran all my audio cables.
Good luck, that ought to look pretty damn good.
If you don't want to tap into anything for power you could alway just run your own wire from the battery for power... just a thought

 

Easy as mentioned to get through the large grommet just above/left of where the steering column goes through the firewall

I installed a 2gauge pillar first, then month later swapped to 3gauge. With wideband o2 & a/f meter, fuel pressure and vac/boost gauge there were quite a few wires to try n stuff in there.(trans temp in column pod) Had to cut holes in original pillar to pass through. Pulled the light switch out and ran some of the the wires above the hvac duct and behind the stock gauge cluster. Was a bit tricking getting it buttoned up with so many wires down where the pillar meets the dash. Can see a couple wires peaking out in one of the pics below.

Found it easier to run wires with the stock gauges out. BTW, the helmut is holding steering column up if your wondering
Thats a good price on the wideband/02. I paid alot more for my digital/analogue gauge & wb
Maybe more details on the pillar install on my 05page, been a while so may have left chit out
http://www.rm-indy.com/05_picsnslips.htm

 

the white gauges look killer in your truck, RM! You really have gone paint crazy, but it's amazing, dude! Thumbs way up!

I was going for the full blackout on the gauges when off for mine. I thought the blue LED matched my interior best. I just hope the A/F gauge fluctuating doesn't become a visual distraction. I'll try to put that one the further out of line-of-sight. I just wish Innovate made the same full blackout gauge for trans temp. The autometer gauge does state that it is specifically governed to be slow changing.

I thought about a boost gauge, but I currently have no use for it. I may or may not ever get that crazy. I'm thinking about a new go-stick for the summer though.

Laramie1997 - I want the gauges to key off and not to run while the truck off. running off the battery would defeat that I believe. I'm thinking that I'll examine the fuse box and see which one seems likely for a low load. Hopefully the LEDs will be a minimal draw.

 

well yea if you need to do it that way you can always tap into a fuse in the box. Should not be bad at all. If you want a wire to tap into, you could also use the power wire going to your radio.... there are many options there to go with.

 

Squirrels, nice choice in gauges. Hope the LEDs doesn't distract you too much. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Sonnax SC + Transgo Jr (or Superior) and PML pan as well. I will also be adding an Auto Meter trans temp gauge on the steering column. As for power, may I suggest the Painless Cirkit Boss? I'm just now finishing up installing mine to clean up my cloogie PO trailer brake wiring. I now have enough extra fused circuits to install any other powered accessories I want.

Silver also has the Split Second ARC-1 system and can read/adjust his a/f ratio. The thing I'm not sure about is the wideband O2. Can the PCM read the wb, or do I still need the factory O2? I was never clear on that.

 

I'm going to have my exhaust guy drill and weld a new O2 bung. I have read that you can use a wideband for the PCM, but you have to rig up some extra crap to keep the PCM from freaking. Not worth it, IMO.

 

ya that all looks great

 

sweet!!!... do you have link for the Sonnax sure cure kit?? i have been looking at transgo but the few past thread have me looking around
(pm sent, i hope)

 

aim4squirrels, thanx
Not sure on the pedals, may redo them blue like I did my motor mounts (red prior)

Seeing you have a wideband o2 (leave your stock o2 in there Rex) the fluctuation of the numbers isnt as drastic as it is if you tap into the narrowband o2. If you wanted a 3rd gauge for a column pod could add a fuel pressure gauge as well

Make the effort of a new go-stick get a reasonable one so you wont be disappointed like I was with the first one.