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Old 02-17-2009, 03:20 PM
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Question Can't decide

My comp cams double roller timing chain and GMB high volume water pump were just delivered
today. I honestly can't decide if I want to do this myself or just have my mechanic do it.
What are your thoughts? Have you done it yourself? How much time am I looking at spending
on this project? What problems could I run into?
 
  #2  
Old 02-17-2009, 03:35 PM
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Do it, thats the first thing I ever did with my truck and now I just got done re doing the entire motor ground up, tranny, and tcase, so be careful it can get addicting.
Although the best part of the entire situation is knowing that if anything goes wrong you can fix it yourself, for just the cost of the part!
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:41 PM
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WATER PUMP

REMOVAL
The water pump on all models can be removed without discharging the air conditioning system (if equipped).

The water pump on all gas powered engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.

On the 5.9L gas powered engine, a gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover.

If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive.

Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain cooling system. Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
Remove windshield washer reservoir tank from radiator fan shroud.
Disconnect the coolant reserve/overflow tank to-radiator hose at the tank.

Remove the four fan shroud mounting bolts at the radiator. Do not attempt to remove shroud from vehicle at this time. WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER 6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS. CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with a matching number or letter.
Remove upper radiator hose at radiator.

The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove the fan/fan drive assembly from water pump by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front). Threads on the fan drive are RIGHT-HAND. A Snap-On 36 MM Fan Wrench (number SP346 from Snap-On Cummins Diesel Tool Set number 2017DSP) can be used with Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench and Adapter Pins 8346 to prevent the pulley from rotating.
If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from the thermal control fan drive.
Remove fan blade/fan drive and fan shroud as an assembly from vehicle.
After removing fan blade/fan drive assembly, do not place the thermal viscous fan drive in the horizontal position. If stored horizontally, the silicone fluid in the viscous drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate the bearing lubricant.

Remove accessory drive belt.
Remove the lower radiator hose and heater hose from water pump.

Loosen heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and remove tube from water pump. Discard the old tube O-ring.

Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts.
Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of bypass hose. Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing pump from vehicle. Do not remove the clamp from the bypass hose.
Discard old gasket. CAUTION: Do not pry the water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.

INSPECTION


Visually inspect the water pump and replace if it has any of the following conditions:
The body is cracked or damaged
Water leaks from the shaft seal. This is evident by traces of coolant below the vent hole
Loose or rough turning bearing. Also inspect thermal fan drive
Impeller rubbing the pump body
INSTALLATION


Clean gasket mating surfaces.
Using a new gasket, install water pump to engine as follows: Guide water pump nipple into bypass hose as pump is being installed. Install water pump bolts. Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
Position bypass hose clamp to bypass hose.
Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
Install a new O-ring to the heater hose coolant return tube. Coat the new O-ring with antifreeze before installation.
Install coolant return tube and its mounting bolt to engine. Be sure the slot in tube bracket is bottomed to mounting bolt. This will properly position return tube.
Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
Connect heater hose and hose clamp to coolant return tube.
Install drive belt.
Position fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.
Install fan shroud.
Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft.
Fill cooling system.
Connect negative battery cable.
Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
 

Last edited by helms; 02-17-2009 at 03:46 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-17-2009, 03:42 PM
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if you want the pics to go with it, i can probobly post them somehow
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:44 PM
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TIMING CHAIN
REMOVAL

Disconnect battery negative cable.
Remove Timing Chain Cover.

Re-install the vibration damper bolt finger tight. Using a suitable socket and breaker bar, rotate the crankshaft to align timing marks as shown in (Fig. 73).
Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
INSPECTION-MEASURING TIMING CHAIN STRETCH

Place a scale next to the timing chain so that any movement of the chain may be measured.
Place a torque wrench and socket over camshaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed or 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head removed. With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to prevent rotation.

Hold a scale with dimensional reading even with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads installed, apply 14 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed, apply 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. Note the amount of chain movement (Fig. 74).
Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).
INSTALLATION

Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.
Place timing chain around both sprockets.
Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in camshaft sprocket.
Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).

Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment of timing marks (Fig. 75).
Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
Check camshaft end play. The end play should be 0.051 - 0.152 mm (0.002 - 0.006 inch) with a new thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a new thrust plate.
Install the timing chain cover.
 
  #6  
Old 02-17-2009, 03:54 PM
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I would do it.
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:01 PM
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Dang helms, thanks for all that great info!
 
  #8  
Old 02-17-2009, 04:03 PM
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are you cerial? super cerial?

you put a soupey charger on your bowl but you are affraid to take off the water pump and timing cover? cmon now.
 
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyRamMan
are you cerial? super cerial?

you put a soupey charger on your bowl but you are affraid to take off the water pump and timing cover? cmon now.
LOL I know ...... I'm kinda trying to get at whether its worth it to take the time and do it
myself or just pay someone else to do it. I've become pretty busy since classes started back
up and I just don't have a lot of extra time. I'm trying to figure out if its a pain in the ***
that is going to take me a while to get done, or if its straight forward and I can do it in a
short day. THE LAZINESS HAS A HOLD OF ME MAN!! lol
 
  #10  
Old 02-17-2009, 05:58 PM
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Flat rate is 1.5 hours plus 0.4h if you have A/C, 0.4h for PS and 0.4h for an Airpump

i did mine in about 4 hours taking my time
 


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