I do believe my freeze plug on the drivers side of the engine block decided to crap itself...





Anyone have suggestions for the easiest procedure in fixing this DIY?

Some friends say don't attempt this without lifting the truck at a shop... some say have at it.. thoughts? And anyone have a suggestion where to pick up a freeze plug? I swung by oreillys, auto zone, and advance auto parts... they all want like 30 bucks for it... seems steep for something I could shove a silver dollar in the plug and probably have the same success :P

 

I would check RockAuto for prioce comparison. That seems excessive for one plug! Someone had a thread about a freeze plug in last couple of weeks,,,can't remember who. I think they blocked engine and remved engine mount.

 

rock auto. you could order a complete expansion plug kit for less than $22 plus shipping. not sure if it would be better to order the steel or brass ones. there might still be some valid coupons for rock auto to save 5%.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...sc-code-2.html

 

I picked them up from Napa when I had to do 2 of mine. I think they were a few dollars. I just crawled under the truck, knocked them sideways with a punch and pulled them out with pliers. Remember to make sure the engine is cold! The antifreeze in the block retains heat a long time! Clean out the holes they go in and tap them in with the biggest socket that will fit inside it. I read conflicting opinions on whether or not to use some rtv but I put a little coolant rtv around it. Been almost a year now with no problems.

 

http://youtu.be/RAkau1IFb5Y

I wanted to share the interesting noise I hear coming from my freeze plug... or thereabouts... guess that water I added is making its way through!

 

I couldn't get brass, and I needed one in a hurry, so I just put a steel one back in.... If you can get brass, go with those. They are 1 5/8ths. I would be really surprised if the parts store didn't have 'em, they should only be a couple bucks.

They are dead easy to change. For the rear one there, disconnect the battery, drop the starter motor, and just set it on the control arm. (I didn't disconnect the wires either.) Use a screwdriver, or similar prying device to lever it out. They come out fairly easy. Not like you care if you destroy it taking it out... Once you have it out, hit the hole with some sand paper. (be aware, coolant WILL come out when you remove it.... no matter how much you think you drained out.) Put a thin bead of RTV around the new one, and use a socket that just fits into it to drive it in. Make sure you drive it in STRAIGHT. The edge of the plug should be just below the edge of the hole it fits in. Once it is in, let the RTV cure for at least an hour before refilling the cooling system.

Since that one looks so bad, and you are going to be right there.... I would change the one behind the engine mount as well. Have to pull the mount. I used a jack, and a short length of 2x4 to support the motor.

 

1-5/8 at any parts store. steel or brass. should be only about $2 each.
Sealed Power makes and entire kit, available from O'Reillys.
about $14 for brass, $10 for steel.

there are serveral 1-5/8 on the block.
the 4 on the heads, and one on the back of the block are 1-1/4.
as said clean the surface and use a little rtv around the edge. it will all squeeze out so don't use too much or it gets where it shouldn't be. only use a thin smear around the edge.
just tap it in flush. that's all there is to it.

 

Freeze plugs rot out like that because antifreeze actually turns to acid if it is not changed.
This is why radiator and antifreeze flushes are important.

Keep us posted how it works out!

 

Well, I completed my freeze plug replacement today. I figured that I would actually contribute to the forum by posting pictures of my progress today. Even though I dropped a 1 1/8 socket on my head... overall it was successful!


You can see that this freeze plug has been leaking for some time... prior to me owning the truck.


You will find that the starter is in the way of easily accessing the freeze plug, there would be no room to move around the freeze plug to remove it, therefore, two 5/8 bolts hold the starter in place... *first, disconnect negative battery terminal* (zman17), then remove those two 5/8 bolts and temporarily set your starter aside. I did not disconnect mine (thanks HeyYou).


I found that trying to pop the freeze plug at an angle in the exact spot it was leaking for who knows how long, probably wasn't the best of ideas... it would have been easier to put my screw driver through a soda can than it was this freeze plug... I barely even tapped the hammer on the screw driver handle and I was through the freeze plug. My advice would be to make sure you have the screw driver on the lip of the freeze plug securely to knock it out.


Made the hole big enough to get my clamps in place to pry out the freeze plug, would have been much easier with an actual pry bar (or at least what I think is a pry bar...). See the video for more details on my weapon of choice.

http://youtu.be/hN4xEDSo3e8


Successfully removed the freeze plug. I took an old rag and cleaned out the inside of the rim. Also some sandpaper around the rim to remove any further gunk.


The end result of removing my old freeze plug... it had seen better days.


For $10.03, I purchased two (one for backup) new freeze plugs 1 5/8 size, steel...brass had to be ordered and I wanted to complete the job today. I assume that these are the original freeze plugs and if they lasted 16 years... well that's good enough for me. I also purchased a 1 1/8 1/2 drive socket to be my driving tool. I did not have anything on hand that would fit the freeze plug, therefore I purchased this one from Auto Zone. I had to swing by Oreilly's to get the freeze plugs, they seem to be the only place to have them readily on hand here. The 1 1/8 socket and 1 5/8 freeze plug appear as if they were made for each other. Made the installation very easy.


**Caution** Heavy objects above your head are not a smart idea! This was about 10 seconds after I got clunked in the head, wanted to make sure I didn't need to grab the wood glue in my toolbox and fix my head before returning to fix the freeze plug.


My newly installed freeze plug! It was a deep well freeze plug, so it sits further back than the original, but I believe it will work well!


Freeze plug is installed and I put the starter back in place using the 5/8 bolts that I removed earlier. I always put the bolts back in the threaded hole they came from while doing work... otherwise I would have lost them...like many other bolts prior to this method!

There you have it... my freeze plug adventure... only a welt on the head, pinched finger equaling two large blood blisters, and nearly blowing up my engine because I forgot to burp it! Yeah that was fun...



I found a hill in a residential area that they are building nearby that has no houses and I decided...well hey, I don't have time to jack the truck up and wait, lets get this done now! See video for nothing more than me removing the vent cap... holy crap was that thing ready to pop! I haven't fixed my parking brake yet, so I couldn't have the engine running while adding fluid on that hill... still worked though! Man did I hear some gurgling and bubbling from all that!

http://youtu.be/sVzCA_vIqn0

DISCLAIMER: Do not attempt opening vent when engine is hot... stupid in retrospect!

 

you shouldn't remove your rad cap while the truck is not running while it is hot or you can get injured. it is under pressure when hot.