V10 Oil Pump Replacement
#1
V10 Oil Pump Replacement
Okay, I think I have no choice but to replace the oil pump on my 2001 2500 V10. Idle pressure cold @ 12lbs. Pressure cold at 3000rpm maybe 25lbs. I've exhausted all other possibilities.
Question is, D I need to remove radiator to access the timing cover? A chilton book was rather vague on this. I wouldn't mind doing it if necesssary but the are alot of transmission lines, ac lines, etc attached to it. And I really don't know how to disconnect them. I looked, but I can't figure some of them out. (Chiton just said "Disconnect").....Duh?! they didn't say how the connections worked.
Can anyone help on this? Please someone tell me that it can be done without removing the radiator...........Please!
Question is, D I need to remove radiator to access the timing cover? A chilton book was rather vague on this. I wouldn't mind doing it if necesssary but the are alot of transmission lines, ac lines, etc attached to it. And I really don't know how to disconnect them. I looked, but I can't figure some of them out. (Chiton just said "Disconnect").....Duh?! they didn't say how the connections worked.
Can anyone help on this? Please someone tell me that it can be done without removing the radiator...........Please!
#2
Update
Turns out, it can be done without radiator removal. But, I thought that this other bit of info may be helpful to some others.
After getting to the oil pump I discovered that 3 of the 5 torque screws holding the rear pump cover had backed out. One was about 3/16s out. This allowed alot of oil to pour into the timing cover and right into the oil pan. I haven't put it back together yet (still waiting for the new pump and gaskets. But I'll bet you that I could put the old rotors back in, button her up, and have twice the oil pressure that I was showing. But as long as I'm already in there..............
Anyone else ever heard of this happening? I'm glad I found some cause for it. And I'm glad I caught it in time. There is no evidence of any damage. And I'm certain there would have been a seized engine in my not too distant future. All because of a few .50 screws.
Moral of the story is........... lots of Loctite!
After getting to the oil pump I discovered that 3 of the 5 torque screws holding the rear pump cover had backed out. One was about 3/16s out. This allowed alot of oil to pour into the timing cover and right into the oil pan. I haven't put it back together yet (still waiting for the new pump and gaskets. But I'll bet you that I could put the old rotors back in, button her up, and have twice the oil pressure that I was showing. But as long as I'm already in there..............
Anyone else ever heard of this happening? I'm glad I found some cause for it. And I'm glad I caught it in time. There is no evidence of any damage. And I'm certain there would have been a seized engine in my not too distant future. All because of a few .50 screws.
Moral of the story is........... lots of Loctite!
#4
#5
Yeah, I wondered if this happened to anyone else. I'm gonna loctite the snot out of the screws and then I'll probably "Ping" the edges. I ordered a new rotor kit prior to tearing into it. That and the gaskets won't be in until Tues. (here in Montana no one cares any inventory). In all honesty, I don't think there's anything wrong with the old rotors, but better safe than sorry. And I'm already in there.
Could have been a disaster though
Could have been a disaster though
#7
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#10
They both turn but only one is directly powered by a shaft. The other is being turned by the other gear.