Here is the problem.... when I try to start it up it will studder and die every time UNLESS I hold the throttle to about 1000 rpm(a little higher than idle,...)
for about 15 seconds then the truck runs like a dream. I shut the truck off then try to fire it again, same problem.... So I take the negitive side off of the battary then reconnect it. The truck fires PERFECTLY no hesitation or studder. im lost.....

I already have changed the IACV.
Fuel pump reads 45 PSI.
have no problems with spark.

ANY INFORMATION WOULD HELP.....

 

Test your ASD relay. That and, look at the bottom of the throttle body. Remove it from the vehicle and verify that the IAC passages are not blocked up with carbon. If so, clean it. Then put it back together and test.

 

what and where is the ASD relay?

 

this is not very scientific, but i'd replace the throttle position sensor, TPS, on drivers side of throttle body. it interacts with the IAC in wierd ways. keep your old one, just in case this doesn't fix it, just so you have a spare for the next wierd event.

i doubt that its ASD, which is a fuel shutoff device. i think its in power box, next to battery.

 

The ASD relay causes this same symptom as what he's describing. All the power runs through that prior to certain components on the vehicle and, if the contacts are contaminated with oxides if it not hermetically sealed. It may also have a bad coil. If it does not make good contact, the ohms goes way up due to high resistance due to carbon buildup and throws the entire circuits that pass through that relay out of tolerance.

This is a major electrical component that should not be overlooked. I had it go out in my truck. Truck would not idle for one, and, when it did run, it did not run good at all. I went to Napa, got a new one, popped it in right in the parking lot- ran fine. Check your ASD relay.

Always, do the simple stuff first like, checking your PCV, breather elements- all your check valves coming off the intake manifold, to your ASD relay, then work into the sensors on the TB such as your IAC and TPS. Check the cheap components first.

If it was a TPS it would also run bad under load conditions while driving. Your speed would vary, it would hesitate and, it would also trigger a fault code thus resulting in the check engine light to illuminate.

Usually, when the AIC goes, the engine either lopes up and down while idling and goes into a cyclic loop. In non - extreme cases, it becomes stuck upon starting and chokes out the TB from getting any air. That's why when you open up the throttle plates by revving it at higher RPMs, it runs. It's now getting air into the fuel mixture whereas before, it was almost flooded / choked out. It then idles fine until the next time during cold start up the motor fails to move the piston again.

But, never overlook anything - even the simple things like a simple relay can become stuck as they are mechanical and move by means of a coil which, eventually wears out along with the contacts on the inside. DC is especially hard on the contacts and, over time, they do go bad.

 

It is located inside the master fuse box, in the engine bay, next to the battery. It is on the right side of the battery when standing on the driver side fender looking at the battery.

If you look at the inside lid of the fuse box, it has a map of all the components. Just look for the ASD relay on the inside of the cover. When, you look at the inside of the lid, that is representing the layout as you see it when looking at the fuse box.

Disconnect the battery negative terminal before servicing any of the relays or fuses.

 

First thing I would do after you check the simple components, is to remove your TB and inspect the underside for carbon buildup around the IAC air passages as well as the bores and plates. If it is in bad shape, I would then take all the sensors off and remove the gasket. I would then clean it with solvent and spray it out on the inside, clean the bores, clean the throttle plates, clean it 100% until it shines and all the black residue is removed.

Don't even bother putting the old IAC on. Go and get a new one- lightly apply grease to the o-ring and install it first. Reinstall the TPS sensor and MAP sensor, get a new gasket and using Gasgacinch, apply it to the TB bottom and the gasket mating surface that contacts the TB. This keeps the gasket from moving around and possibly blocking or obstructing the air passages and bore openings. Note any over hangs of the gasket into the bore and IAC air passages.

Using a exacto knife, carefully trim away any excess gasket material around the bore openings and IAC air passages so that the gasket is flush with those openings.

Place the TB back on the manifold and align it with the intake openings. Tighten to around 8-9 ft lbs. Reconnect all the wiring connectors, vac lines, reconnect the front vac line and your throttle linkage plate, put your air hat back on, reconnect the air intake supply tube, reconnect the negative battery terminal and fire it up. It will run rough on the first time due to the computer having the old data for the old IAC. To speed things up, you can simply clear out the computer by removing the negative cable and touching it to the red cable for a minute. This will drain all the capacitors in the computer and reset it. Reattach the neg cable and fire it up. Upon first crank, it will be slower than normal but, after that, it will be fine.

If you need step by step and would like to try this- let me know and I can tell you how to do it step by step. It's very simple and is not complicated at all.

 

here's another vote for the asd relay. i had the exact same symptoms a long time ago before i found dodgeforum and i replaced the IAC and the TPS and they didn't help. then my dad found out about the asd relay with a little Google help. i swapped it for a new one and voila, problem fixed. you can get the relay at advance or napa for 6-10$. they probably won't be able to cross reference the part number but they can match yours up to one they have in stock.
before you buy a new relay you should do a free test. take your fog light or horn relay out if they work and put it in place of the asd relay and start the truck to see if it will run.
when mine was throwing a hissy fit it would run fine with the pedal on the floor but as soon as i let off it would return to idle then pass idle and bobble around 4-500 rpm then die.