1-Ton Steering Upgrade
#1
1-Ton Steering Upgrade
I got my 1-ton steering linkage on this weekend. It's an easy install and it replaces the inverted Y linkage on the 1/2 tons. I posted pics of everything and some that shows the size differences in the bars in my album in my profile here.
I believe the 1-ton linkage started to come in around 98 on the 3/4 tons. With this change you do loose the steering stabilizer but, you can get a mounting bracket aftermarket to put it back on if you want. You'll need a 7/8 and 13/16 socket to remove the old and just the 13/16 socket to install the new. Torque them to 60 ft lbs and grease them and then get an alignment. There is a difference in the taper on the ball joints. The 1/2 tons are a .7-.86 taper and the 1 ton is .7-.88 taper. The bars are thicker as you can see in the pictures. I put the wrench on the new first and then you can see how much wider it is on the old.
I used the NCP line from Napa. I priced out the 1/2 and 1 ton parts and the 1/2 ton is only $6 cheaper. After looking at the ball joints taken apart, I decided I did not want to go with the Moog parts. I do not know what those would be priced at though. Here are the parts and their online prices.
269-3148 Tie Rod End at pitman $64.99
269-1123 Adjusting sleeve at pitman $28.99
269-6096 Tie Rod End draglink $69.99
269-6095 Tie Rod End passenger knuckle $219.00
269-1201 Adjusting sleeve on driver side $54.49
269-3208 Tie Rod End left outer driver knuckle $67.49
It does feel tighter but my old stuff was pretty worn so I don't know if the new design makes that much of a difference. There were no issues during the alignment. I have not had it offroad yet so I don't know how it does there with any kind of kickback. enjoy
I believe the 1-ton linkage started to come in around 98 on the 3/4 tons. With this change you do loose the steering stabilizer but, you can get a mounting bracket aftermarket to put it back on if you want. You'll need a 7/8 and 13/16 socket to remove the old and just the 13/16 socket to install the new. Torque them to 60 ft lbs and grease them and then get an alignment. There is a difference in the taper on the ball joints. The 1/2 tons are a .7-.86 taper and the 1 ton is .7-.88 taper. The bars are thicker as you can see in the pictures. I put the wrench on the new first and then you can see how much wider it is on the old.
I used the NCP line from Napa. I priced out the 1/2 and 1 ton parts and the 1/2 ton is only $6 cheaper. After looking at the ball joints taken apart, I decided I did not want to go with the Moog parts. I do not know what those would be priced at though. Here are the parts and their online prices.
269-3148 Tie Rod End at pitman $64.99
269-1123 Adjusting sleeve at pitman $28.99
269-6096 Tie Rod End draglink $69.99
269-6095 Tie Rod End passenger knuckle $219.00
269-1201 Adjusting sleeve on driver side $54.49
269-3208 Tie Rod End left outer driver knuckle $67.49
It does feel tighter but my old stuff was pretty worn so I don't know if the new design makes that much of a difference. There were no issues during the alignment. I have not had it offroad yet so I don't know how it does there with any kind of kickback. enjoy
#3
#6
The parts are larger but some would say the design is better. You have a tie rod that goes knuckle to knuckle and a drag link from pitman to the far end of the tie rod. The stock setup goes from pitman to knuckle and from drag link to knuckle.
I am pretty sure the boxes are interchangable but the only difference is that the 1/2 ton is a variable and the others are non variable. I am pretty positive that is the only difference.
I am pretty sure the boxes are interchangable but the only difference is that the 1/2 ton is a variable and the others are non variable. I am pretty positive that is the only difference.
#7
You are absolutely correct.
Sweet deal on the upgraded steering. I have been giving this some thought as my steering is all the stock OEM parts (after 160k miles, just wont give up!). I will have to check your pics out. Sounds like a simple bolt on swap.
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#9
My stock pieces had 184,000 miles on them. The ball joint seals had some splits so I just wanted to replace them all. Figured it was time.
The track bar. They are bent normally. Not sure if you mean it is bent beyond the stock bend. If you want just that piece, you'll probably only be able to get a stock replacement. The only difference is who makes it and how they build their ball joints.
The track bar. They are bent normally. Not sure if you mean it is bent beyond the stock bend. If you want just that piece, you'll probably only be able to get a stock replacement. The only difference is who makes it and how they build their ball joints.