Pull it out, clean it and, DO NOT FORGET TO OIL it prior to installing it. APply a light film of clean motor oil to that AND the rubber gasket on top of the bell housing. If you don't there's a really good chance that you will push the gasket into the bell housing due to friction. This just happened to me three days ago in fact so, trust me, apply some form of lubrication to both parts.

 

he still hasn't determined whether he has spark or not? wtf...thats like the first freaking thing you check...i don't understand the problem here. i'm gonna laugh my a** off if the only problem he is having is a damned ignition coil or something.

 

Wasn't there mention of that before? I recall someone telling him to use a screwdriver to the block method- he still hasn't done it?

 

Damn it give me time i have school and then i go right to work i well check this stuff over the weekend thanks tho for the tips.

 

we're not giving you a hard time, we're just suggesting you do something REALLY simple before you go digging deeper into something that might not even be the problem to begin with.

 

hey i noticed you guys were talkin about the coil goin bad. how can i test that to see if its workin. i know its not geting spark or it would have started its geting fuel. Thats way i thinck its the crankshaft postitioning sencer because that controls most of the ingition.obw i also have check the asd relay thats fine. I have got prices on get the ckp fixed and its like 185 for part and labor (oem part) is that a good price.

 

no. why not just change it yourself? its only held on with two bolts (i think) and as long as the bracket isn't modified then it can't be installed incorrectly.

 

ok where is it at how hard is it to get to.

 

diy link would be great too.

 

OEM price is 119.00 avg. Save yourself the labor and do it yourself. Sit inside the passenger wheel well / engine bay.

Tools needed:

- 3/8 drive
- 1/2 inch socket or 1/4 inch allen wrench (some OEM bolts have allen in the center)
- universal joint
- two small extensions
- clean motor oil

Notes: this process is best done by feel. Line of sight is not possible as it's located behind the motor on top of the bell housing.

Preparation: Use lubrication to install new sensor. Apply light oil PRIOR to installing sensor to both the sensor sides (not the tip) and the rubber gasket in the bell housing.

Process:
-Disconnect the connector for the CKPS. (on the right side of the distributor-usually)
-Sit in the passenger wheel well.
-Feel around the back of the block around the inside of the tranny dip stick.
-Feel for two screws that hold the sensor in. (note: it is at a slight angle)
-Using the 1/2 inch socket and universal, loosen the screws partially.
-Set aside the drive
-Using both hands, reach around and remove the fasteners from the sensor.
-Carefully, walk the old sensor out by rocking it side to side while gently pulling on it. NOTE: DO NOT pull so hard in a straight motion as there's good chance that you will rip the rubber seal out of the bell housing.
-Lightly apply clean motor oil to all sides of the new sensor and rubber seal.
-Gently feel for the opening of the rubber seal with your right hand.
-With the sensor in your left hand, meet your left hand to your right and guide the sensor into the opening of the rubber seal.
-Carefully and gently rock the sensor into the bell housing. If you feel resistance or, it's not going in: STOP. Do NOT FORCE IT INTO THE SEAL Doing so can force the rubber seal to fall into the bell housing / tranny where, you will have to remove the starter, the tranny support mounts and the flex plate in order to fish it out with a coat-hanger.. Back it out and apply more oil.

It should slide / glide in very easy.



Once it's in, place one bolt in at a time. You will have to really feel how they are going in and, you may have to move the sensor in towards the block to align the holes.

Tighten up the bolts snug.
Reconnect the sensor connector.
Start truck and note how / if it runs.

NOTE: Some new sensors don't work. Mine didn't and, I found the only ones that work are the OEM. I cleaned my old OEM with 226K on it and it works fine now. They get loaded up with oil and other sludge type of debris that it starts acting funky. Cleaning them sometimes works just as good as a new one. However, mine was not totally dead, just erratic.

Hope that helps.

CM