they actually started on the 2000 model year. I dont have to do that upgrade because I already have it.

 

I personally don't believe they'll interchange unless one changes either the caliper mounting bracket, or has to change the hub casting to change said bracket.

 

I was thinking that dual pistons would be nice for stopping the bigger rubber. But I too do not think it is a bolt on upgrade, based on looking at the pictures.

 

I've read in a few threads that you'd have to swap out the spindles in order to make it work. I think Purpl was saying that. Could be mistaken.

 

It might very well not work, it was just a thought for a fitment trial. But pics can be hard to tell without some scale to them.

 

my 2000 has dual piston calipers. and they don't stop the truck worth a damn if your star adjusters are a little loose.

for the hub replacement,
a shower with a good penetrating fluid will go a long way.
the socket is 1 11/16".
factory torque was 185 ft-lbs. the new spec is 175 ft-lbs.
a 3 or 4 foot piece of pipe to put on the end of your 3/4" breaker bar will go a long way. a lot of people break 1/2" breaker bars on that nut.
i used a big combination wrench for leverage on the end of a 1/2" drive socket wrench to get the three bolts out of the back of the hub.
and a screwdriver or prybar in the rotor slots resting against the caliper is better than having someone stand on the brakes because then you don't need a helper. so crack the nut before you remove the caliper.

 

great advice. as always.

Anyone have a write up, or pics of the wheel bearing replacement?

 

Do yourself a favor and drop $20 on the Haynes from your FLAPS. Is it a spectacular manual? No, but aside from dropping over $100 for the Official Factory multivolume set it is handy to have in the garage.

Also, the FSM (Field Service Manual) is located in the FAQ in PDF format.

 

You da man

 

Enjoy!

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