You gain the same clearance as a suspension lift? The axles and drive shaft are the limiting factors in ground clearence the tire size changes that not lift.....you gain 4 inches of clearance e on the frame but thats so close to the drive shaft thats dropped and hanging down anyway thats really a good thing to help protect it....
Mine had the body lift when I bought it and with the relocated bumper mounts its very hard to tell its there....some model trucks it really stands out more than others...
I see your point with the weak springs although I'm still not sure that isnt more dangerous to put all of the pressure on the top longer weaker springs if it does see a load. but I'm just guessing on that.

 

I still don't see any facts saying that our cheaper way of lifting trucks is unsafe.

I have a 13 inch lift so I wouldn't say I went the cheap way out. BTW I have 4.56 gears.

 

While we are talking lifts does any one know where I could get a good deal on a set of control arms for a 5 inch lift?

 

lolololololololollol

Sick broski:

 

ok this is from the article below on lifting on a budget for petersons 4 wheel magizine....

"Rear Lift Blocks
Note that we said rear, not front. Front lift blocks are illegal in nearly every state because they are unsafe and turn a vehicle into a severe road hazard. And by rear lift blocks we don’t mean bricks, hockey pucks, 2x4s--it’s not a creativity contest. Store-bought lift blocks aren’t expensive and won’t stiffen your ride. The con? Lift blocks increase spring wrap and long U-bolts can often work loose."
The real point I was getting too people try to add them on top of factory blocks or make homemade blocks....our trucks already have a 3 1/2" spacer on them from the factory...I believe the largest they make is a 5 1/2 inch spacer....you have to remove the factory spacer to install the aftermarket one....this only net you 2" at most. and the rigidity of your rear axle placement is weakened more than stock (spring wrap). certianly not as strong and safe as using rearched springs or even add a leafs...although they do offer the same flexibility as stock suspension over the add a leafs.... Again, best of both worlds...new springs that add more lift.
and yes here's more info on the subject from where else but here as this comes up often...


https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-my-truck.html
and that good that you have 4.56 gears....But they are still way too low for the 42" tires...you should have gone with the tallest you could (4.88's) as you actually need 5.38's to bring your gearing and tranny ratios back to stock levels and restore most of the power you lost and not burn up the od on your tranny (if its an auto).... but you cant do that with stock 1500 axles hence one of the reasons they arent a good idea for tires over 37" let alone 42"...(mentioned earlier)

check this out (courtesy of olyelr)
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm

 

Hit the nail on the head with that one.

Quick quiz children, which truck has more ground clearance at its lowest point:

A. No lift - 33" tires
B. 5 inch lift - 31" tires.

Gogogogogogogo!

 

when talking ground clearance i was talking about the frame, meaning that you can get over bigger obstacles (rocks/stumps/ditches/bumps) without hitting or high centering.
good example, look about 20 seconds into the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Kd5xHo8UeU


i just looked at a picture from when i put the AALs on and i don't see how they could put more pressure on the top spring. they're much shorter than the rest of them and are just another leaf in the pack. look at this picture, the AAL is between the leaf pack and the overload spring. sorry about the size, you can't really see it that good with a smaller picture.

 

well solved one of their problems. I love how they use the word can in "Ubolts can work themselves lose" Simply tighten .

I am with Sherrif on not understanding how its putting more pressure on the top spring. I'm sure the anti cheap suspension lift duo will have the answer waiting.

 

they do stiffen the springs and reduce their effectiveness to react and flex independantly from each other for one because theres just that much more spring resisents but it drops off the further out you go making the strongest part stronger and weakening not helping the weaker outer ends of the top spring because its getting more of the load transfered to the ends. (they sell pads to aid in lubricating and allowing better movement)
I understood what you were saying but even with a suspension lift of 5" you still have the drive shafts hanging down and going to axles (they would have possibly hit and been damaged even if the jeep was lifted) ....many kits come with transfer case lowering brackets which essentially brings all the hardware down to the stock level vs axle height thats Why I said the frame can actually act as somewhat a guard for drive shafts and transfercase....you can look at it in different ways depending on different uses though.
In either case the difference make no real difference to me since I live on the east coast and there is much rock climbing to be done around here and the 4 inches of clearence isnt really needed since even my frame is almost 2ft from the ground now....

 

down south there's only mud . Kinda why everyone down here wants a cheap ole lift so they can spend there money on tires. Damn you recession.