CV Joints?
I don't have or know of an exploded diagram.You need to invest in Haynes or a Chilton's repair manual.It tells all that information and more.This is an older one.The newer one's cover the 1994-2001.This one should be fine for you truck.They have them at AdvanceAuto.Some guys like Chilton's better.They have them at Autozone.They're about $20 at both stores if you can't wait on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...item53def51e76
Last edited by halfamil; Jan 7, 2010 at 09:01 PM.
Thanks, I do have the haynes manual....
Anyways... The project turned into a failure last night. A buddy and I picked up a case of beer went to work.... Took off the tire, caliper, rotar... and got to the hub nut and didn't have the right size...
so I ran to sears and picked up the right size socket... got back home.... and couldnt get the little bastard to move..
Tried everthing, pry bars, pipes, even tried using a jack that I have to lift one end of the pry bar, and I actually picked the truck up off of the jack stands from the prybar.... used heat, penetrating oil... So......... what am I missing here... What tool would a shop use for this project?
Anyways... The project turned into a failure last night. A buddy and I picked up a case of beer went to work.... Took off the tire, caliper, rotar... and got to the hub nut and didn't have the right size...
so I ran to sears and picked up the right size socket... got back home.... and couldnt get the little bastard to move..
Tried everthing, pry bars, pipes, even tried using a jack that I have to lift one end of the pry bar, and I actually picked the truck up off of the jack stands from the prybar.... used heat, penetrating oil... So......... what am I missing here... What tool would a shop use for this project?
Yep, if its never been apart thats what happens. Grab some mapp gas and heat that nut up nice and hot(red) then use the 1 11/16" socket I believe and start trying to get it off with a long breaker bar or good impact.
Umm i can't guarantee that. The hub nut is torqued to 175 ft. lbs. factory so add in years of heat cycles and some rust and you get one stuck nut. Maybe someone with a 3/4" impact might loosen it but maybe not.
I use old atf for pent.oil and squirt a little on it 3-4 times in 24 hrs.Then try it with a BIG breaker bar with a 6-8 ft. piece of pipe on it for a cheater and go down with it.It will either %$# or bleed.
somewhere i read that a mix of atf and acetone was one of the best penetrating oils.
you really need the hammering of the impact wrench to get the sob off.
if you don't have one, i'd suggest going to a tire store and have them use theirs to loosen the nut for you. they probably have a 1 inch drive with about 1000 pounds of torque. oil the nut and shaft and put it back on (tight but not so tight) and drive it home.
just FYI... once you get the big nut off, you're only 1/3 there. you'll need to remove the 12 point bolts on the back, and then you've got to get the hub bearing out of the knuckle (and off the outer splined shaft). that can be a real bitch too, so go ahead and start throwing lots of penetrating oil at it.
might need more beer too.
you really need the hammering of the impact wrench to get the sob off.
if you don't have one, i'd suggest going to a tire store and have them use theirs to loosen the nut for you. they probably have a 1 inch drive with about 1000 pounds of torque. oil the nut and shaft and put it back on (tight but not so tight) and drive it home.
just FYI... once you get the big nut off, you're only 1/3 there. you'll need to remove the 12 point bolts on the back, and then you've got to get the hub bearing out of the knuckle (and off the outer splined shaft). that can be a real bitch too, so go ahead and start throwing lots of penetrating oil at it.
might need more beer too.
Try the long cheater first.



