Here is another pictureAttachment 8557

 

Attachment 8558 this is last one

 

What did you use to cut it out?

 

if you can make one out of aluminum

 

well just did the mod myself - here are some guidelines

Disconnect battery (unless u wanna blow the 140amp fuse like i did?)
Remove air filter and hose
Remove cowling (undo 4 bolts that loosens fan - wiggle cowling past blades - keep fan loose)
Unbolt connectors/etc from throttle body and unbolt. I left the throttle bracket on and left on the pass side (i modded mine btw, radius the edges well!)
The 2 throttle cables coming from the front pop off the bracket so u can swing the body away.
Remove serpentine belt and pass side rad overflow. Windscreen wiper on right slides off and can hang around there somewhere.
Unbolt bracket the holds the Alt/AC, it has 2 brackets that mount to intake, and a bunch of varying length bolts in the front. Make sure u dont undo the water pumps ones. There is one bolt behind the idler pulley. Mark them on reinstall and DONT over tighten, the threads are aluminum, and hold the bracket up while screwing in the bolts so dont strip them.
In the Youtube vid the one guy lays the whole bracket off the the pass side, my ac hose got a break from this and all my AC gas hissed out, not cool - not sure what to do here but watch the hose going to the condenser in front of the rad! You will have some connections and the batt positive to undo
With that out of the way, remove the big coolant line in front of intake, and the smaller one next to it. There is also a short hose facing forward and bending down, like a 90 degree but short, remove the one clamp (engine side) and break the hose loose so it pulls off when u remove the intake.
Remove connections from intake / release fuel pressure / unbolt fuel rails (u can keep the injectors on the rail). Pop out the injectors - u may replace the orings if u want but mine were fine after 16 yrs! (wd40 them when reinstalling)
Brake booster and breather hoses and small vac on pass side also.
Now follow all the bolts that hold intake down, 15 of them. Near the dizzy at the back are 2 very hard to see, MAKE SURE u remove all 15.
Intake will pop off, remember the water hose in front u broke loose (wd40 on reinstall).

Clean gasket areas, i put a nice amount of permatex Ultra (NOT regular RTV) on all 4 corners AND a light circle around each water port when putting on new gaskets.

Plenum mod:
I used 3/16 aluminium and actually drilled thru it myself, using the old steel pan as a guide. I bought 15 grade 8 bolts (1" - 1/4-20 thread) from HD and blue loctite AND matching split washers.
I reassembled the old steel pan ontop of the aluminium one to strengthen the bolt pressure (like those oil pan rails chevy uses), and to give some extra beef to the bolts (like washers).

All is back together and so far car is running great - I also permatex ULTRA along the new gasket on the plate side AND the intake side - just a light skin in case any oil decides to try take up residence down there.

Hope this helps! Remember to refill rad and run motor with rad cap off and refill as necessary, put heater on full on first hot drive to fill the heater core. When the motor has cooled refill - I had to do this twice before all air was out.

Good luck! Oh - plate cost me 20 bucks, gaskets were 15,bolts about 6 so all in at 40 bucks -

You did bolt the fan back on and reinstall the belt right?

 

And I just did mine from scratch, mostly with home tools.
I bought 1/4 5052 from Metal Supermarket for $48, told then which edge (long, so width) needed to be more precise.
Cut 2 angles to the rectangle to mimic steel plate, and clamped to a board so could use a large hole saw for the distributor curve. So far so good.
No drill press, so I guided my small drills through the steel plate with small sockets as guides on both sides, when two met up I could see the alignment before I drilled the final, large holes.
I set raw plate in place, marked where pushrods were on my straight sides (unlike metal plate) and ground just a bit JIC.
I studied up a bit, and chose red loctite and 1 inch SS bolts with SS flat washers - marked plate with dremel JIC for later ('HEAT Red Loctite').
I tested old and new for clearance - I think the OE too long is a myth, and 1 inch was fine with extra 1/4 of material.
I have seen many failed exactly where mine was - near the firewall - and believe Dodge placing bolts to avoid pushrods led to a single gap just to big and eventually gasket pulls in.

 

Most fall by the gasket getting pushed out like mine

 

The plate isn't the problem. Its the cheap gasket, and the bolts that are too long, that are the issue.

 

Well, after looking again through images, I believe if I ever have to do it again, I'll add a pin between bolt 2 and 3 from back on the passenger side.