CKT is the acc. for curcuit... i see.

I have mils code 37** which is a short or connection in CKT for trans. temp sensor... different subject i think...

 

i also have mils codes

12** battery diconnected in last 50 key on cycles....

37** one i explained above....

41** Generator field not switching properly

grrr!!!!

 

Maybe Ill just replace all main wiring to and from battery and alternator... Maybe its a short i cannot see.... Tomorrows list just grows.....

 

There is the main giveaway - CODE 41. This means either two things:

1.Rotor or commutator short at the ALT or

2. Open / short condition at the PCM rectification CKT

In this case, after reviewing this: it sounds like you blew the rectifier stage. Time for a new PCM if that's the case. In this case, the ALT passed the four stages of testing so, you can rule out a dead / partial short at that component level which narrows it down to one other thing: fault at the PCM stage.

Do yourself some good and get a new PCM for dirt cheap to test it out. It's fast, it's cheap and, you'll have an answer fast if that's what it was which, after getting that code, (which was why I asked to see what codes you were getting by the way) this is a good indicator of a PCM fault at the ALT rectification stage.

Now, when and if you go to put it in, you must not load the CKT. Now, when did the last one go south on you- was there anything done where you removed the battery leads and reconnected them prior to this?

CM

There's reason for this question which, I will explain later after you post back.

 

I have only had this truck a year... Maybe a bit more... First time i know of it going out... I found a PCM for my truck and was told only one from a 94 or 95 would work bc of changes to the 318 or something.... And the PCM doesnt have to be programmed to my truck does it? Thats the ECM correct???

 

And yes. The O2 sensor was changed and took leads off to change battery and new alternator....

 

You have an OBD I vs an OBD II. That's why you were told from 94-95 PCM would work. 96 and beyond are OBD IIs.

Next: you will not have to program it for your truck for the simple swap out test but, what you will want to do here is to buy a nice PCM from a great company with top notch components along with it being fully tested, burned in, screened, thermally tested- the whole nine yards here for, I do not believe that the refurbed units sold on ebay, or other 3rd party sites are reliable as I have heard how they are made along with where they source the raw components. This is why those are so cheap.

They will program it for your year by the way along with your VIN and OEM PCM as well so, the labeling will match exactly the same as OEM. Only time it becomes an issue is if the PCM is key'd to the ignition by means of chip on board. This is a later technology in which, the key you use in the ignition has either a black or grey composite body. The ID resides in this body and, it sends the ID to the PCM for verification code to ensure the key matches the PCM. If the key / chip does not match the PCM- no start. It's an anti theft mechanism.

But, on the older type vehicles, this is a non-issue so, you can simply drop in another PCM from the same year and go so long as the engine size is the same. When changing engine sizes, the parameters are programmed differently due to the change in engine size and / or components.

If you need to, I have a source for solid PCMs.

Next: NO- you do not have an ECM.

CM

 

I see.... Ok well where can I find a good one? I found a place down the road that sells them. They have 4 that will fit my exact truck and only wanting 50 bucks... Will one of these correct my issues at least long enough to when I order a new one???
Also.... I was told that the PCM can be taken apart and single circuits be repaired or replaced. Obviously this is how they do a refurb... But can I just have the broken curcuits fixed in the one I have>

IF so... is there a pricing diff????

 

Im gonna try to grab a PCM swap tomorrow.... We will see what happens...

 

Anything can be fixed if you know how and, you've got the test equipment. The 50 dollar unit is most likely in your budget. The one I was referring to was around 400.00 with a lifetime warranty. Here's where you can find the on yours: http://www.autosourcemodules.com/fin...AM+1500+PICKUP

They can also rebuild them for much less and still offer a warranty due to fully testing them out. They have all the test equipment, run it through vibe, thermal cycling, etc. Highest quality components are used throughout too. Highly recommend these guys.

The pricing difference is still going to cost more than three times the amount that your paying because of all the testing and screening. Just because one side of the CKT was repaired does not mean that some other CKT wasn't damaged due to a large voltage spike.

There's also a proper method to installing them and connecting the battery so that you don't have this happen again.

CM