when i drop my pan to clean up the pickup tube am i going to have to "re-prime" the pump even if i dont change it?

 

No, taking the oil pan off, is no different than draining the oil out. If your not having oil pressure or other problems, don't drop the pan to just to clean the pick-up. Your just "opening a can of worms" by doing that.

 

10-4 i was going to do it since i was doing a bunch of stuff anyway to it...i get 45 psi idle and about 55 when on the gas...

 

have not personally broken one. (i try to pay attention) only read about someone on here that changed their pump awhile back and broke it while installing. they didn't twist the pump back and forth to engage the drive shaft. they also didn't verify that the pump mounting flange sat flush against the block.


if you remove the pump and turn it upside down and let the oil drain out, you'll need to reprime it. like said ^, if you just wipe the screen off, then no.

sheriff's going to have his pump off for rear main replacement, so he'll want to pur gas or kero through it and get it nice and clean. then reprime.

 

How about a seafoam bath to clean it?

 

I started late today and it got dark and cold before I knew it but I got a good little bit done.
I removed the fan, shroud, accessory bracket, starter, transmission to engine struts and I drained the oil and coolant.
Tomorrow I'm going to do the rear main, then after I get the pan back on I will leave the front two bolts out and go after that timing chain.
The starter was easy too. A 3/8" ratchet, a 6" extension and one of these http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...keyword=wobble made it pretty easy. I did have to put a combination wrench on the end of the ratchet for leverage on the top bolt, but by doing that I saved myself from a busted knuckle.

 

i'm sure i said this somewhere before, but its worth repeating. when removing upper half of the old rear main, you'll loosen all the main caps on the crankshaft a few rounds. i loosened mine a 1/8 turn at a time all the way down the line, sort of like a reverse torque. when you remove the upper seal, you push on one end and it slides around the shaft and out the other end. the crank must be loose enough for the seal to slide out easily, or else the new one won't slide in. be very very careful not to scratch the crank, as that's the sealing surface...

 

Thanks for the info.
I'm a bit confused on the instructions between Haynes and pavementsucks though. Where exactly does the RTV and the Loctite go on the main bearing cap and the oil pump?

 

I'm going to change that seal after I get the timing cover back on, does anyone know exactly where the loctite and RTV go on the rear main bearing cap? Haynes is a little vague on the subject.

 

look on haynes page 2A-18, figure 15.10
the bolts are toward the front.
the seal is in the back.

loctite 515 goes on both sides, on the rear flat,where the seal halves meet. just a couple of drops on each side. (black dots in picture)

small dab of RTV goes on the edges, where the notches are.