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Seized axle nut

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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #21  
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ya that hub nut was interesting. came off like butter. your truck just likes me more. sell it to me for 300$ and 3 cases of BLL.

hub nut had to come off. the ujoint (original we think) was the worst i've ever seen. a good half inch of movement in it (no joke) so that option was not there.

the pb blaster worked good. sounds like you guys down south have lots o' nifty penetrating lubes. we dont, and honestly, PB has worked magnificently. i swear the hub wouldn't come off knuckle (even used the steering wheel method which almost always works) and nothing. blasted it with pb and then pried it off with a screwdriver. unbelieveable.


there is one lesson to be learned; ANTISIEZE will be applied liberally to everything that goes back on the truck.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 03:49 PM
  #22  
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bad u joint would have no affect on the whole axle shaft sliding out with the wheel bearing as one.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #23  
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Question time again...

Put my drivers side axle seal in a few minutes ago, yes yes I know this whole process is taking me forever! working on the truck when I have some spare time, Anyway, It is slightley crooked, I did bend the top a little tiny bit tryin to straighten it out. it's not bad but you can tell.

should I go get a new one (the cheapest I found is $16) or should it be ok if it is out just a little.

I can get a pic of it if it helps.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #24  
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Now that I am looking at the pics it looks worse then I thought...FML and this side is supose to be the easy side?!? really looking forward to the passenger side
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #25  
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Thats what i did to mine the other day. got a new one on the way now....
 

Last edited by bubba_md; Mar 13, 2010 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #26  
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I looks like it is just bent on the inner lip, it might seal as long as the bent part doesn't go all the way to the other side of the seal. I wouldn't run it if it were me just because the carrier has to come out to get to it.
The passenger side is the easy one, the only thing you have to remove is the axle shaft and the cad unit.

Do yourself a favor and get a piece of sheet metal and clip it with some snips into a half circle, then grind it down to sit flush in the axle tube. then screw it onto the end of a skinny board to clean out those axle tubes.
like this


and make sure the axle shafts are perfectly clean when you put them back in, you don't want sand wedged between the axle and the new seal.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xxxcowxboyxxx
bad u joint would have no affect on the whole axle shaft sliding out with the wheel bearing as one.

he was installing new hubs as well. so ya it had to come off eventually

he got it all back together yesterday though; probably handles like a new truck i bet
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #28  
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I'm working on my axle nut now - how do you keep the passenger side axle from turning? Is it okay to engage the 4x4 to torque against? Or do you have to leave the calipers on and stand on the brakes?

I'm new here but a long time DTW guy - seems more active in these woods.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #29  
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Look at the picture on post #11, see the pry bar jammed in the vents on the rotor, it is resting against the caliper bracket (just two bolts to put it back on) and that kept it still.
 

Last edited by Sheriff420; Aug 6, 2010 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:58 PM
  #30  
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Holy nuts it worked! Thanks man!
 
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