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Whats a good spark plug wireset

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  #11  
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rwilhelms
So whats the diffrence in wires between like 8mm 8.5mm Ive seen 10.5mm I know its the size but does it make the wire any better?
They won't make a bit of difference on a stock motor. Only on a really high performance with a high voltage ignition system.
 
  #12  
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:16 AM
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the only thing i noticed when i went to 8.5's over the stock, was the idle was much better, and the pickup was better (but i did plugs, wires, cap/rotor at the same time)
 
  #13  
Old 03-08-2010 | 02:35 AM
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I used to run the local NAPA here in my home town. Change of careers. lol I personally run NAPA Beldens in my truck and love em' because of the materials used. I used to be a big freak about learning about the materials manufacturers used in their products and from what I learned at the time the Beldens were the KING once the made the switch to the BlueMaxx line (if I remember right thats what they called the new wires back when they upgraded their materials) They have a lifetime warranty and out of the different shops around town about 95% of them refused to install anything else on their customers vehicles. Unless the situation was such that, as was previously stated, they needed a high performance wire on a hot engine! Just my $0.02 for what it's worth
 
  #14  
Old 03-12-2010 | 04:48 PM
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I remember seeing a post about "cross-talk" of the plug wires. It had a diagram of a certain way to route the wires that way they don't interfere with each other. I went with NAPA 7mm but I seem to have a miss at idle. Sounds like a hammer dropping under the hood. It's not consistant so I don't think it's a valve but if anyone knows that post please help.
 
  #15  
Old 03-12-2010 | 05:09 PM
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are any of your wires touching?

if 3 and 7 are touching it can cause a misfire for they fire after one another, and its the same with #2 and 6 i believe.
 
  #16  
Old 03-12-2010 | 08:38 PM
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I'll have to look again when theres some light outside. Thanks for the info
 
  #17  
Old 03-12-2010 | 09:04 PM
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I got a set of 7.5mm with a lifetime warranty from advance for $45.00
 
  #18  
Old 03-12-2010 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mnewbolds
I remember seeing a post about "cross-talk" of the plug wires. It had a diagram of a certain way to route the wires that way they don't interfere with each other. I went with NAPA 7mm but I seem to have a miss at idle. Sounds like a hammer dropping under the hood. It's not consistant so I don't think it's a valve but if anyone knows that post please help.
5.2/5.9 Misfire TSB 18-48-98
This bulletin involves rerouting the coil wire for all engines listed and rerouting the 4, 5, 7, and 8 plug wires for the 5.2/5.9L applications to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A 90O ANGLE.
5.2L AND 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURES
  1. Coil Wire Routing (Figure 1 and Figure 2)
    1. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap coil wire tower terminal.
    2. Remove the coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip located along the lower side of the right valve cover.
    3. Install three (3) one-wire clips p/n 56028186 along the top and front of the valve cover. Use the studs of the valve cover retaining bolts (Figure 1). NOTE: SOME APPLICATIONS MAY ONLY HAVE STUD LOCATIONS FOR 3 OF THE ONE-WIRE CLIPS.
    4. Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
    5. Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
    6. Cut the ignition wire convolute p/n 04364375 into three lengths 203 mm (8 in.), 101.5 mm (4 in.), and 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
    7. Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 203 mm (8 in.) and the 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
    8. Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch (Figure 2). NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
    9. Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
    10. Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
  2. No. 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 3)
    1. Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
    2. Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the valve cover.
    3. Route the No. 8 cylinder plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover (Figure 3).
    4. Position the original piece convolute from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
    5. Secure the No. 8 cylinder plug wire and its convolute in place with the hose to wire clip p/n 06503441. The small end of the clip is positioned over the convolute. The large end of the clip is fastened to a heater hose (A/C line on ZJ models). NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE COIL WIRE AND THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.
    6. Install the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal.
  3. No. 4 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 4 and Figure 5)
    1. Remove the No. 4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
    2. At the three-wire clip (located at the center of the lower side of the right valve cover), keep the two wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 2 cylinder plug wire in the top wire slot and the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle wire slot empty (Figure 5).
    3. At the five-wire clip (located at the right rear lower side of the valve cover), keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in a slot that will obtain the maximum amount of distance allowable from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire (Figure 6). Remove any slack in the No. 4 cylinder plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips. NOTE: EARLIER MODEL FIVE-WIRE CLIPS LOOK SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT BUT THE SAME WIRING LAYOUT APPLIES.
    4. Route the No. 4 cylinder plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses. On ZJ models this may not be possible due to the location of the bulkhead. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
    5. Install the No. 4 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal (Figure 7).
  4. No. 7 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 8 and Figure 9)
    1. Verify that the No. 7 cylinder plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 3 and the No. 6 tower terminals (Figure 8). This is the original wire routing for 1998 and prior model years.
    2. For 1999 M.Y. vehicles the No. 7 cylinder plug wire was shortened. Reroute the No. 7 cylinder plug wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 6 and the No. 5 tower terminals (Figure 9).
    NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
  5. No. 5 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 10)
    1. Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from its distributor cap terminal.
    2. Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
    3. Route the No. 5 cylinder plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
    4. Position the original convolute from the No. 5 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip p/n 06503441 over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
    NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.












Dave
 
  #19  
Old 03-12-2010 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BigRedRam95
I got a set of 7.5mm with a lifetime warranty from advance for $45.00

Not trying to stir the pot here or anything I'm asking this cause Im curious... I've looked at advance auto parts and the only thing I've seen that was bigger than a 7mm wire was the mallory wires but they only have a 90 warranty due to being considered performance wires and the ones that are replacement wires with lifetime warranty are all 7mm! The Beldens are 7mm as well they have a limited lifetime warranty and they are $32.99 plus tax. So either I'm missing something or else dude you got burned there.

Please help me understand! Cause I'm sincerely interested in knowing what set of wires you got from them!
 
  #20  
Old 03-12-2010 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mnewbolds
I remember seeing a post about "cross-talk" of the plug wires. It had a diagram of a certain way to route the wires that way they don't interfere with each other. I went with NAPA 7mm but I seem to have a miss at idle. Sounds like a hammer dropping under the hood. It's not consistant so I don't think it's a valve but if anyone knows that post please help.

Originally Posted by 95RAM360
are any of your wires touching?

if 3 and 7 are touching it can cause a misfire for they fire after one another, and its the same with #2 and 6 i believe.

When I get some time I think I may need to check the same thing on my truck. I know the firing order is wired right but they maybe touching causing some interference with one another due to the EM field around them. Hmmmm had forgotten about this small detail till you mentioned it! Great Post Guys!
 


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