Very weird stalling/misfire/no gas ,sounding problem ! help?
#22
#23
#24
dh is right, a coil itself is perfectly incapable of causing knocking/pinging.
My guess is that you might be running hot, and the air/fuel mixture is cooking off early, causing improper combustion, or pre-ignition.
Could also be a EGR valve problem - This system is in place specifically to reduce or eliminate knocks, and if its not functioning correctly, you'll get exactly that.
My guess is that you might be running hot, and the air/fuel mixture is cooking off early, causing improper combustion, or pre-ignition.
Could also be a EGR valve problem - This system is in place specifically to reduce or eliminate knocks, and if its not functioning correctly, you'll get exactly that.
#25
If its a egr problem what/ how do I go about fixing it?
and
DHVAUGHAN this is where I got the idea to change the T-STAT,Its 3/4 down the page its solution#4 http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/ping.htm
and
DHVAUGHAN this is where I got the idea to change the T-STAT,Its 3/4 down the page its solution#4 http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/ping.htm
Last edited by metallatem; 03-14-2010 at 11:47 AM.
#26
you can give it a try, but the reasons i don't think the wires or t-stat will help your pinging, is that the 15* difference in coolant temp is going to have even less effect on the actual cylinder temps. those temps will be more affected by lean/rich fuel mix than anything else, and the most common cause of pinging in these trucks is the leaking plenum, which is just a glorified vacuum leak, especially if combined with an advanced timing, such as superchips, hypertech, or any non-death flash, pre-2000 stock pcm.
what little experience i had with pinging was when i first installed a hypertech. i knew my truck was a slug, but i didn't know what a plenum was, much less a leaking one. so i put in a hypertech and it pinged like a mother. so i put in 3923 plugs and a 180 tstat and it didn't make any difference at all. i changed to 89 octane and it stopped the pinging. once i fixed the plenum i could run 87 octane again with no ping and much improved power
there's a lot of posting about the plug wire routing, but i just don't think its necessary nor does it have any bearing on a truck who's wires are in good shape.
my recommendation is to get some high octane gas in it. its going to produce a faster result and have more effect than all other things combined.
that was a lot of effects and affects. i hope i got them right.
what little experience i had with pinging was when i first installed a hypertech. i knew my truck was a slug, but i didn't know what a plenum was, much less a leaking one. so i put in a hypertech and it pinged like a mother. so i put in 3923 plugs and a 180 tstat and it didn't make any difference at all. i changed to 89 octane and it stopped the pinging. once i fixed the plenum i could run 87 octane again with no ping and much improved power
there's a lot of posting about the plug wire routing, but i just don't think its necessary nor does it have any bearing on a truck who's wires are in good shape.
my recommendation is to get some high octane gas in it. its going to produce a faster result and have more effect than all other things combined.
that was a lot of effects and affects. i hope i got them right.
#27
The diaphragm and/or plungers in these valves can get a carbon buildup over time, resulting in the valve being stuck open or closed, or not seating properly.
This is really a critical and often overlooked component, as the flow of emissions it regulates can have bad effects, including knocking, if they are not operating properly.
Never had to mess with the one on my truck, I'm assuming they are mechanical [newer vehicles control EGR electronically].
They can be taken off and cleaned, but if its a defective diaphragm, you'd have to replace it with a new one.
It will be located on the intake, and they resemble a little flying saucer. They also have vacuum/solenoid wires running to them, and if either of those gets messed up, that will cause the valve to malfunction.
So locate it, check the connections for any faults, take it off and clean it if necessary, and replace if you can determine its not functioning correctly.
I think they cost something on the order of $70 to $100.
This is really a critical and often overlooked component, as the flow of emissions it regulates can have bad effects, including knocking, if they are not operating properly.
Never had to mess with the one on my truck, I'm assuming they are mechanical [newer vehicles control EGR electronically].
They can be taken off and cleaned, but if its a defective diaphragm, you'd have to replace it with a new one.
It will be located on the intake, and they resemble a little flying saucer. They also have vacuum/solenoid wires running to them, and if either of those gets messed up, that will cause the valve to malfunction.
So locate it, check the connections for any faults, take it off and clean it if necessary, and replace if you can determine its not functioning correctly.
I think they cost something on the order of $70 to $100.
#28
Ok its been 3 weeks since I put the New Coil in ($43) and all my stalling ,problems have gone
, it was a easy cheep fix
wish I had changed it first hahah
so to up date this post
coil fixed the stalling problems
Tstat Fixed the pinging along with re routing the plug wires
thx everyone for your help , hope this helps someone in the future
here are some links( re.t-stat and wires)
http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/ping.htm
its a long read but was very helpful
, it was a easy cheep fix
wish I had changed it first hahah
so to up date this post
coil fixed the stalling problems
Tstat Fixed the pinging along with re routing the plug wires
thx everyone for your help , hope this helps someone in the future
here are some links( re.t-stat and wires)
http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/ping.htm
its a long read but was very helpful