i know i just of home drove about 30mins in it....daytons got about one inch

these t-chain suck,,,, here is mine at only 69,000

 

Did you put in a double roller or the same? Mine was the same kind. Prolly should have got the double roller, but I didnt know.

Purpl would have some fun in that snow. Lots of newfound power and crappy tires!

 

ya i got a jp performance double roller

oh i had i little fun on the way home

 

lookin good man!

 

nice before/after pic on the rocker arms. did you have to change valve covers or remove any baffles or anything?

you've got a lot sludge around your valve train. i see an engine flush coming..

 

Nope, the Harland Sharps keep the same valve covers. Although it is a shame that you need to cover these up! They are beautiful!

You really think there is a lot of sludge? For 180,000 miles, I thought it was pretty clean. I might start runnin 2,000 mile changes with that new Pennzoil Ultra to help clean it out. Might even put in a bypass filter.

When I took my filter out it felt like it weighed 5 pounds! I'm gonna cut it open.

 

Also I dont think I connected the IAC wire! Oh Noes!

That would explain my high idle.

 

How do these shoes look?

 

They look pretty nice on there! How's the truck running?

 

I agree with Vaughan, you've got an S-load of sludge there, Purp. That probably means you have a bunch of coking in the lifter gallery under the spider retainer, too. You shouldn't have that type of build up on the pushrods and heads. Looks like dino oil was run in it for the better part of it's younger life and a lot of short trips where the engine barely got hot and shut down. That's just a guess, of course.

You need to be very careful trying to clean that out all in one sitting. I would do several filter changes at 1000 mile intervals after the initial flushing. If too much of that gets loose all at once, you could plug the filter up, and then an oiling hole or two.

I wish I would have seen this thread about 2 weeks ago, I'd have told you to hold off on the Cloyes chain or at least run a tensioner with it. My Cloyes HD chain only got about 30,000 on it before it was loose again. The distance of the camshaft to crankshaft creates a geometry that make stroking these motors very friendly compared to others, but the timing chain is much longer because of it. They need the extra help of a tensioner, or a really heavy duty one like the JP Performance or Rollmaster types. Those cost considerably more, of course.

Anyway, just enjoy it for now and in 30K if it just doesn't feel as peppy on the gas, consider the chain.

Make sure on the flush stage that you get the engine up to operating temp for an extended period of time to get that crap to really liquefy and down into the filter. I've also heard of this stuff called Auto RX that supposedly does the cleaning job slowly, as to not cause major mechanical issues. I can't comment on the job it does as I don't really have that much crud in there to clean, but I have run it and there were no ill side effects.