MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)
MonteC,
You mentioned this website when I posted that I needed a transducer and governor pressure solenoid. I found the parts I need, but for the transducer, it lists a 4 prong rectangular or a 4 sprong round connection. Also, for the governor pressure solenoid, it lists about 5 of them and they all say they will fit.
Which parts do I get? I have tried calling and emailing them numerous times and cant get call backs or replies to my emails. I already got a transducer from Dodge, but wittrans is cheaper by about $30, if I could ever get ahold of them. Im about ready to just order that governor pressure solenoid that is the GM kit, but Im not sure if its worth it on a never rebuilt tranny with 94k miles, but shifts well?
Thanks and sorry for all the questions
You mentioned this website when I posted that I needed a transducer and governor pressure solenoid. I found the parts I need, but for the transducer, it lists a 4 prong rectangular or a 4 sprong round connection. Also, for the governor pressure solenoid, it lists about 5 of them and they all say they will fit.
Which parts do I get? I have tried calling and emailing them numerous times and cant get call backs or replies to my emails. I already got a transducer from Dodge, but wittrans is cheaper by about $30, if I could ever get ahold of them. Im about ready to just order that governor pressure solenoid that is the GM kit, but Im not sure if its worth it on a never rebuilt tranny with 94k miles, but shifts well?
Thanks and sorry for all the questions
Hey, I have a 2001 5.2L with 88,000 miles. I have noticed that the torque converter locks up a few hundred RPM after the 2-3 shift. When cruising at highway speeds, the converter will lock up and unlock when at low RPM's, like 1900-2100 RPM. If I keep the truck under load with decent throttle, the converter remains locked. Also, when I downshift, the converter locks up pretty much right away. Help! Thanks!
I don't mean to jack Monte's thread, but I had that same confusion when I initially ordered from them. If you look at the product #, all the numbers are the same except for the letters. The letters indicate if it's a "dealer part", a "rebuilt part" or a "rebuild kit". There is a legend in the upper right corner of your screen that will help you identify them labeled, "parts # legend". Hope this helps.
Thanks
Since you have a 2000, you'll need a "rectangular connection" and as far as the gov sensor. Well, all I can say is that company has to make a living wage. So that's why they charge more...I guess.
Thanks a lot J415! Would I be better off with a rebuilt gov press sensor or the OEM part? I have a transducer from Dodge, but I paid $84 for it and WIT Trans has it for $55, so I am definately going to return the one from Dodge. $30 is $30 bucks saved
P.S.
Sorry Monte. Didn't mean to jack your thread so severely.
First time posting here. I have read all 36 pages of this thread and I have not seen a post about my problem. First off I have a 2000 with a 3.9L 2wd, I am assuming the 42re trans. The problem that i'm having is that the transmission is down shifting while i'm coasting. For example, driving on highway about 60-65 i let off the gas and when i hit 55mph it shifts down, then when i need to accelerate it shift harshly back into o/d. It gets more noticeable the longer I am driving, maybe heat related? I have adjusted the tv cable with no results other than the timing of the shifts. I was going to do fluid and filter tomorrow, other than obvious things is there something i should look for with the pan off? TPS sensor is also good. One more thing, this started happening right after my battery got disconnected.
I had previously posted about my 2001 Ram 2500 2WD having lost reverse and that I was going to adjust the bands to see if that fixed it. It didn't. But, while I had the pan off I found another piece of the O/D wavy spring in the pan. This is the third piece I have found. Searching (elsewhere) on the Web I saw a reference that stated that if the wavey spring was gone, the O/D unit would move enough to keep reverse from engaging. Everything else about the transmission iseems fine, except occasionally searching to get into 3rd & 4th.
MonteC, have you ever heard of this being the case?
I'm going to try changing the wavey spring this weekend and will let you know if it fixes it. I asked at two different shops and both immediately said, no, you have to have a complete rebuild for $2500. That's how much I paid for the truck last summer. Seems a bit much if the part only costs $5. Provided, of course, that that is the only problem.
Thanks for any input.
MonteC, have you ever heard of this being the case?
I'm going to try changing the wavey spring this weekend and will let you know if it fixes it. I asked at two different shops and both immediately said, no, you have to have a complete rebuild for $2500. That's how much I paid for the truck last summer. Seems a bit much if the part only costs $5. Provided, of course, that that is the only problem.
Thanks for any input.
MonteC I did a bad thing.
I was traveling to NY state from Louisiana a few months ago, the trip was excellent and went well, my loaded return trip not so much. I believe my governor pressure solenoid burned out during the trip. This threw a few codes, namely P1675 (don't quote that, its the one that indicates a 12V+ short to solenoid or a ground fault either or)
Anyways, it caused my loaded truck to drop out of lock up in 3rd gear. I knew it was bad, I pulled off and tried a combination of tricks to fool the computer into believing there was no solenoid fault so I could get lock up to work and at least make it home. I knew this would lead to trans failure but had little choice in the matter the truck did not have what it took to haul the load. I drove approx 450 miles at steady 55 like this. The fluid is discolored, (dark RED not brown) and I'm positive had some clutch material floating in it. I have up til now replaced the fluid with a simple pan drop, filter change and band adjustment every 15K or so since I got the truck, until now the transmission shifted flawlessly.
When I plug the relay back in without bypassing anything or rerouting the wiring to fool the computer and make it shift normally I have two conditions. One is delayed shift and two is the OD slips ever so slightly, it seems to slip alot less when given more engine load...does that make sense? After the truck warms up the code returns (sometimes immediately after startup sometimes not) I know the solenoid is bad, I tested the field coil, it is shorted to ground somewhere but tapping it causes it to work...so anyways, requires replacement. I'm not expecting miracles but is there a chance replacing the solenoid could return the truck to normal driving status? Do you think something else is going on as well? Will replacing the gov sol and transducer possibly break these components if my trans goes south in the short term (could I reuse these since they are comparatively expensive). I am leaning on a rebuild but need two months out of the truck to pay for rebuilding the trans.
I was traveling to NY state from Louisiana a few months ago, the trip was excellent and went well, my loaded return trip not so much. I believe my governor pressure solenoid burned out during the trip. This threw a few codes, namely P1675 (don't quote that, its the one that indicates a 12V+ short to solenoid or a ground fault either or)
Anyways, it caused my loaded truck to drop out of lock up in 3rd gear. I knew it was bad, I pulled off and tried a combination of tricks to fool the computer into believing there was no solenoid fault so I could get lock up to work and at least make it home. I knew this would lead to trans failure but had little choice in the matter the truck did not have what it took to haul the load. I drove approx 450 miles at steady 55 like this. The fluid is discolored, (dark RED not brown) and I'm positive had some clutch material floating in it. I have up til now replaced the fluid with a simple pan drop, filter change and band adjustment every 15K or so since I got the truck, until now the transmission shifted flawlessly.
When I plug the relay back in without bypassing anything or rerouting the wiring to fool the computer and make it shift normally I have two conditions. One is delayed shift and two is the OD slips ever so slightly, it seems to slip alot less when given more engine load...does that make sense? After the truck warms up the code returns (sometimes immediately after startup sometimes not) I know the solenoid is bad, I tested the field coil, it is shorted to ground somewhere but tapping it causes it to work...so anyways, requires replacement. I'm not expecting miracles but is there a chance replacing the solenoid could return the truck to normal driving status? Do you think something else is going on as well? Will replacing the gov sol and transducer possibly break these components if my trans goes south in the short term (could I reuse these since they are comparatively expensive). I am leaning on a rebuild but need two months out of the truck to pay for rebuilding the trans.
First time posting here. I have read all 36 pages of this thread and I have not seen a post about my problem. First off I have a 2000 with a 3.9L 2wd, I am assuming the 42re trans. The problem that i'm having is that the transmission is down shifting while i'm coasting. For example, driving on highway about 60-65 i let off the gas and when i hit 55mph it shifts down, then when i need to accelerate it shift harshly back into o/d. It gets more noticeable the longer I am driving, maybe heat related? I have adjusted the tv cable with no results other than the timing of the shifts. I was going to do fluid and filter tomorrow, other than obvious things is there something i should look for with the pan off? TPS sensor is also good. One more thing, this started happening right after my battery got disconnected.



