MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: North Charleston, SC
Well I've had it on the road for about 200 miles (mostly highway) after cleaning the solenoids. Most of the time it doesn't want to shift into overdrive. At 70 mph I let off the gas and the rpms drop down to 1500 but when I give it a little gas, it's back up to 3000.
Am I doing any further damage buy continuing to drive it?
Should I replace the overdrive solenoid to get a little more life out of it?
If there some kind of flush you recommend to run through the system to get rid of all the sludge or is it a case of once the clutches start burning, there's no stopping it?
Should I just bit the bullet and start the rebuild?
Thanks
Am I doing any further damage buy continuing to drive it?
Should I replace the overdrive solenoid to get a little more life out of it?
If there some kind of flush you recommend to run through the system to get rid of all the sludge or is it a case of once the clutches start burning, there's no stopping it?
Should I just bit the bullet and start the rebuild?
Thanks
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: North Charleston, SC
Thanks for being available for questions!
I'm not nearly as adventurous as many on this thread that will disassemble their tranny, but maybe you can help me with two questions: what's wrong with my transmission and did I cause it?
I've got a 2001 1500, 5.9L, 46re tranny, 4WD, 108,000 miles
First, what's wrong: After towing a trailer for about 1000 miles, I had no problems until I started the truck the next day after I returned home. The check engine light came on (don't know the code yet since I'm 30 miles from anywhere!) but two things told me I had a tranny problem. All of this is intermittent. When I select drive, and go to accelerate, it's sluggish at best and at worst it's bucks while attempting to accelerate. When it is acting up, I don't feel like I could ever get any speed. At it's worst, it feels like it is about to lock up. The other problem that says I have a tranny problem is the noise coming from the tranny. It's like gears not meshing. Loud but dull sounding like the gears were made of aluminum. Both of these conditions do not seem related. The noise may be there at the same time as the acceleration problem or may not. It is not there when in park. The only thing that I have found to fix it so it is driveable is to put it in park and shut the engine off for a few seconds and turn it back on. Can you tell anything from my description? The local tranny shop told me by phone that it may be that some bronze shims may have disintegrated and fowled everything in the tranny.......whether that's close or not, I don't know but will cost some $2500 to rebuild. Can you add anything?
My second question is, did I do this? My truck GVWR is 6600 lbs and my GCWR is 12500, and max trailer weight is 7150 lbs. I'm pulling a trailer with GVWR of 4780 and with an ATV weighing about 500 lbs in the bed. It seems to me I'm well within the specs, but even so, is this too much to expect without problems? Reading some of the comments in this tread seems to maybe indicate so. If I get it fixed without your recommended upgrades, will it happen again? Can I expect a standard tranny shop to do any upgrades like you recommend?
Thanks again for your effort.
I'm not nearly as adventurous as many on this thread that will disassemble their tranny, but maybe you can help me with two questions: what's wrong with my transmission and did I cause it?
I've got a 2001 1500, 5.9L, 46re tranny, 4WD, 108,000 miles
First, what's wrong: After towing a trailer for about 1000 miles, I had no problems until I started the truck the next day after I returned home. The check engine light came on (don't know the code yet since I'm 30 miles from anywhere!) but two things told me I had a tranny problem. All of this is intermittent. When I select drive, and go to accelerate, it's sluggish at best and at worst it's bucks while attempting to accelerate. When it is acting up, I don't feel like I could ever get any speed. At it's worst, it feels like it is about to lock up. The other problem that says I have a tranny problem is the noise coming from the tranny. It's like gears not meshing. Loud but dull sounding like the gears were made of aluminum. Both of these conditions do not seem related. The noise may be there at the same time as the acceleration problem or may not. It is not there when in park. The only thing that I have found to fix it so it is driveable is to put it in park and shut the engine off for a few seconds and turn it back on. Can you tell anything from my description? The local tranny shop told me by phone that it may be that some bronze shims may have disintegrated and fowled everything in the tranny.......whether that's close or not, I don't know but will cost some $2500 to rebuild. Can you add anything?
My second question is, did I do this? My truck GVWR is 6600 lbs and my GCWR is 12500, and max trailer weight is 7150 lbs. I'm pulling a trailer with GVWR of 4780 and with an ATV weighing about 500 lbs in the bed. It seems to me I'm well within the specs, but even so, is this too much to expect without problems? Reading some of the comments in this tread seems to maybe indicate so. If I get it fixed without your recommended upgrades, will it happen again? Can I expect a standard tranny shop to do any upgrades like you recommend?
Thanks again for your effort.
First thing i would do is clean your governor pressure solenoid and sensor. See if the condition gets better. To me it sounds like the truck is taking off in the wrong gear.
The bronze bushing thing sounds like complete BS. Drop the pan, clean the solenoids, see whats in the pan and change your filter. Adjust the bands. Adjust the tv cable.
I cant say what a tranny shop will do, i will say there are very few "good" ones out there, and most are thieves.
BTW what your towing sounds fine.
Professional
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Damn. I was hoping to get the Mecedes back on the road first.
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: peruvian mountains
droped the pan did the filter and clean the governor pressure solenoid valve and it did help a lil, is shifting again but it feels to late like around 3100 rpms and shifting weird, some times it feels like its trying to shift but it kinda gets stuck between gears and it revs a little bit than it goes in gear but it only happens from second to third.
do u think i need to replace the governor pressure solenoid valve if i do what else would you recommend??
thanks
do u think i need to replace the governor pressure solenoid valve if i do what else would you recommend??
thanks
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Leesburg, IN
Damn. I was hoping to get the Mecedes back on the road first.
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
Dave, this is what I recommend. Plug these numbers into WITTRANS's website.
22002E
12010J OR 12010C depending on year of your truck
B22022A
22034A
22046C
36066 replace other bushings as needed.
22119EHP
22139E
22582E
22584C
S22741NCK
D12415B OR C depending on year
U12927
A12432BK
A22912 use the seal that comes in the overhaul kit, the seal that superior supplies does not install very well.
S22916-2
some common hard parts that you may or may not need, depending on what you find on tear down. This is just a short list because hard part damage varies from unit to unit; you might get lucky and not have any damage.
D22634C
D12220
A22654A
A12650
Also for the extra capacity drums you will need to do some measuring for clutch clearances and order what you need separately from WIT, they have listings for the different thickness pressure plates. Also if you plan on upgrading the intermediate apply lever 4.2 will do just fine. Put a deep pan on it (don’t forget the filter adapter), big cooler with fan if possible. Talk with precision about their RV converters with the billet back.
You’ve pretty much got it covered Dave. I use mostly the alto high energy greens, the alto reds with kolenes would also be a good route but raybestoes makes the blue plate clutches that I use in racing applications, the blues are $$$$.
You might also want to upgrade to a 5 pinion front and rear planet, steel of course. I always upgrade the 3rd gear drum from 3 to 4 frictions, and the o/d brake gets upgraded from 4 to 5. Don’t use a stock style 2nd gear band; use the aftermarket band, WITTRANS.COM has them and most every transmission part.
I use precision of new Hampton converters. http://www.gopnh.com/ They carry an "RV" converter with the optional billet back, that is a very nice product.
22002E
12010J OR 12010C depending on year of your truck
B22022A
22034A
22046C
36066 replace other bushings as needed.
22119EHP
22139E
22582E
22584C
S22741NCK
D12415B OR C depending on year
U12927
A12432BK
A22912 use the seal that comes in the overhaul kit, the seal that superior supplies does not install very well.
S22916-2
some common hard parts that you may or may not need, depending on what you find on tear down. This is just a short list because hard part damage varies from unit to unit; you might get lucky and not have any damage.
D22634C
D12220
A22654A
A12650
Also for the extra capacity drums you will need to do some measuring for clutch clearances and order what you need separately from WIT, they have listings for the different thickness pressure plates. Also if you plan on upgrading the intermediate apply lever 4.2 will do just fine. Put a deep pan on it (don’t forget the filter adapter), big cooler with fan if possible. Talk with precision about their RV converters with the billet back.
You’ve pretty much got it covered Dave. I use mostly the alto high energy greens, the alto reds with kolenes would also be a good route but raybestoes makes the blue plate clutches that I use in racing applications, the blues are $$$$.
You might also want to upgrade to a 5 pinion front and rear planet, steel of course. I always upgrade the 3rd gear drum from 3 to 4 frictions, and the o/d brake gets upgraded from 4 to 5. Don’t use a stock style 2nd gear band; use the aftermarket band, WITTRANS.COM has them and most every transmission part.
I use precision of new Hampton converters. http://www.gopnh.com/ They carry an "RV" converter with the optional billet back, that is a very nice product.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: North Charleston, SC
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: North Charleston, SC
Damn. I was hoping to get the Mecedes back on the road first.
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
Do you have any tips on removing the trans or disconect the transfercase? I'm planning to use a floor jack.
There's a rebuild sheet floating around somewhere. Use that and the Sure Fix kit and a torque converter from New Hampton?
By the by, why don't street applications use steel/brass/steel/brass applications in their clutch packs in their like in my boat instead of steel/fiber/steel/fiber?
It's going to be a busy summer!
I have no idea why the went to fiber clutches. They used to use them back in the 50's, and still use them today in off road equipment.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: North Charleston, SC
droped the pan did the filter and clean the governor pressure solenoid valve and it did help a lil, is shifting again but it feels to late like around 3100 rpms and shifting weird, some times it feels like its trying to shift but it kinda gets stuck between gears and it revs a little bit than it goes in gear but it only happens from second to third.
do u think i need to replace the governor pressure solenoid valve if i do what else would you recommend??
thanks
do u think i need to replace the governor pressure solenoid valve if i do what else would you recommend??
thanks