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Truck is f***ing with me...

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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 12:29 AM
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Default Truck is screwing with me...

Alright, I don't know how many of you saw my post about 3 weeks ago where I found out I blew a fuse which caused all my lights to go crazy whenever I hit the right turn signal. Well the same problem happened again last week except I blew a console B (or cluster B, can't remember which it's called) fuse. Both times I replaced the fuses with new 10 amp fuses except the second time I went ahead and replaced all the 10 amp fuses since I had a bunch of extra ones.

Well, the probably popped back up again for a third time today. After I got home I opened the fuse box and started testing the 3 fuses I've dealt with the last 2 times, the flasher, console A, and console B. All 3 fuses check fine by the tester and I couldn't see any defects visually especially since all but one of the fuses are only a week old. So I started swapping the fuses around and at first no go. But then I pulled the radio, engine, and backup light fuse and swapped those and bingo, the problem goes away. Everything is working just fine again oddly enough to include the radio, engine, and backup light?.

So now what I'm wondering is if there's something else I am missing? Why could this problem have repeated itself 3 times in 3 weeks? I looked at the wire bundle that goes to the right tail light for a bad ground, like I've read about in other threads, but everything looks good. I can't find any bad ground anywhere. I'm kinda lost on this now.
 

Last edited by 2k10HemiRam; Apr 28, 2010 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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if the problem is caused by the use of the right turn signal, i would suspect a short in the column wiring where it flexes for the tilt steering.

remove the covers around the column and inspect that huge wad of wires. i'll wager that the turn signal wire is rubbed raw.... you can find a good wiring diagram in the 01 service manual which will tell you the wire color for the turn signal. you can also operate the signal and probe it.

disconnect battery first, and only reconnect it when you want to test it.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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I have seen the multi function switch (turn signal lever, high beam switch, etc) go bad and cause similar problems. I replaced one for a buddy on his 94 ram with one out of a junkyard chrysler minivan. Most of the chrysler multi function switches are interchangeable between models if they are relatively close in model year (most 90's models are all the same). You will need a "safety" torx head to remove it if you plan to make a trip to ye old salvage yard.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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Eh, last thing I wanted to do was dig into the steering column, guess I'll try to figure that out this weekend along with replacing/upgrading my brakes. thanks for the advice guys.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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If it is the multi function switch, its easy to replace. Unscrew tilt lever, remove 3 torx head screws from bottom of steering column cover, remove cover, remove 3 "safety" torx screws from multifunc switch, unscrew and disconnect wire harness to switch, then do it all in reverse. Might want to disconnect battery cables to prevent airbag from possibly deploying. I did, just in case. Didn't wanna get slapped in the face with it. The safety torx heads are just torx heads with a little "tit", if you will, in the center to prevent normal torx head drivers from removing them. Not sure of the point of them, really. I bet that switch is your problem, but I'd want to get a junkyard one just in case its not what's causing the issue. I think they're fairly expensive new. Good luck with it.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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surprisingly, new replacements are not expensive. i bought a new one at autozone a couple of years ago for only $42. you can also get a set of "security torx" at autozone for about $10. to me, that's not worth the hassle of a used one at the junkyard.

those security torx are very slow to remove. when i put mine back together i replaced them with allen head bolts. something like 4mm x 1in.

its an easy repair. DO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. the hardest part for me was getting the covers off the column. the top and bottom covers snap together and i had trouble getting them to separate. you also need a very long skinny torx to unbolt the lower cover. it needs 4 or 5 inches of reach.


edit - my .02 worth. since he's blowing fuses, i think he has an shorted wire, rather than a problem in the multifunction switch. if it was just a bad switch, the blinker would not work, but it wouldn't be blowing a fuse.
 

Last edited by dhvaughan; Apr 30, 2010 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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My thinking was that the short is probably in the switch, wires making contact when he moves the signal lever. I work at a scrap yard, so I usually pull a part off a vehicle and see if it solves my problem, and if it does, I just throw my old part back in the scrap pile. Best perk of the job. The bad part is dealing with all the crackheads bringing in scrap to get a lil money for their fix. I deal with some shady individuals on a daily basis.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Well, tomorrow I'll be in a auto hobby shop doing my breaks and a couple other things with checking on all this being one of them. Brakes come first because mine have become pretty spongy, faded, and I've developed the ear shattering squeak from hell. So I'll get all that done then I guess I'll move over to the steering column and see what's going on in there.
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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what is an "auto hobby shop" ?
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
what is an "auto hobby shop" ?
He is in the military, and a fair number of bases have a multi-bay garage, that service members can use for free. Complete with tools etc. (not to mention a hoist.......) I know I made a LOT of use of them when I was in....
 
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