This is correct. You want a breather on one side of the engine, and a PCV valve on the other. Without a way to vent the opposite side of the engine, the PCV valve will not work at maximum efficiency, and with a breather on the same side as the PCV valve you're basically just drawing fresh air into the PCV valve.

 

you guys are right. I have to switch the grommets around. I can get a plug cap for the right side, easy fix.

 

I got a question on those RRs. Is installation just basically taking the valve covers off, unbolting the old ones, and bolting in the new ones? Is there anything tricky or is it pretty straightforward?

 

Pull the covers, and bolt them down. Zip ties work wonders if all you are doing is the RRs (Zip all hoses and wires out of the way so you can take off the valvecovers). I was doing the plenum, so I needed to pull the intake and disconnect the whole harness.

Taking off the alternator and AC unit is also pretty much needed. YOu don't need to disconnect the AC, just zip tie it to the top of the radiator support.

VERY easy. The DIY on this forum talks about turning the engine over to release pressure on the rockers, but that is not necessary. THe torque required for the bolts is MUCH greater than the pressure applied to the valves.

You can do it. This is the biggest job I have done by far, and I thought it was easy.

Just make sure you have about 2-3 days without your truck.

 

Reason would be, inadequate scavenging of blowby gases from the crankcase, if the breather is in the same valve cover the PCV valve is in. Sure, you will draw a bit of a vacuum on the crankcase, but, air flow will only be along the one valve cover, and NOT thru the crankcase like you need it to be. Need that air flow thru there to properly dispose of waste gases. Having them both in the same one leads to faster oil contamination, so the oil breaks down faster... and does not do IT'S job as well.

 

Quick question:

Why did my truck come STOCK with a PCV breather on the drivers side and another tube going from the valvecover to the stock intake?

That would be sucking from both sides!!!!

Anyways, i can just sick some 3M double sided tape on the underside of the breather on the passenger side (Cover the holes). Then put that breather on the drivers side and the other one (That will be the vent) on the passenger side.

Problem solved.

 

The breather on the other valve cover with a tube running to the intake sucks in fresh air, while vacuum pulls the crank case air back through the intake manifold, thus the reason behind the term, Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Here is a good diagram that shows how the system works.

 

oh I get it. It is hooked to the intake because it will suck in "fresher" air than if it was just from a breather.

Gotcha.

I am gonna fix that tomorrow. My engine was pristine under the valvecovers, and i want to keep it that way.

QUESTION:
How many miles should I wait to change the oil after this? I changed the oil right after I was done, and i added a couple tablespoons of break in oil to the fresh oil.

I was thinking about 100 miles. Autozone has a CLEARANCE SALE on 10W30 Quaker State Torque power truck synthetic at 3.99 per quart. I jumped on that and i have enough for 3 oil changes. My truck loves that oil, and it has held up the best out of all the oils i have ever used.

Autozone is not carrying it anymore, and they are trying to get rid of their stock.

 

Just to give you a perspective on how awesome the Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers are:
Before this is how far the valve opens:

With the HS 1.7s:

I've got 2,000 miles on mine now, and is gonna change it this weekend.

 

Oh, ok. I figured it was not as bad as a cam break in.

BTW, I spackled the bottom of my breather with ultra black. Quick fix until I can get a cap plug. Or maybe I won'tfix it. But then everyone will be saying "Hey you are a moron" then I can explain the breather is spackled and respond with "I WAS a moron!!!".