I'd like your source that the Magnum engines were built for conventional oil and that synthetics will bake/crust up. Any oil, if not properly changed or filtered, will do that.

Also, the 3K mile oil change interval is a myth. If someone drives a lot of highway miles, the change interval can be increased.

 

actually there was a big thread on this forum about it...and the fact that ive taken a mobil 1 class, and mobil 1 was originally designed for stock car racing, and then was developed for normal cars....

Sheriff posted a pic of his timing chain with 60K all synthetic oil, and it it looked like a burnt piece of toast

 

this is an ongoing convo ive had with another member, and he is an engineer, and has actually tested this stuff, heres a bit of info.




Ripley,

The reason it was light brown is as you'd learned. There is no detergent cleaning anything out. I found Amsoil to be as good as new for as long as it was in my truck. I have been on the phone with them as I am looking to speak to a chemist in regards to a cleaner.

There's two parts to the story here and, one is the fact that conventional oil does not last as long, it breaks down and it forms sludge. On the plus side, it works better in older cars with older lifters. Lifters need to have great hydraulic pressure to prevent collapsing under hi loading.

Some synthetics fail under load and thin out too much thus causing lifter tick and rough idling.

Now, I just ordered new Amsoil SAE 20-50 and am on the line with engineering to talk about this crust that I had witnessed when using full synthetic oils that have no cleaners.

So, the issue is in finding a better solution by using a better wear protecting oil that has a detergent that is compatible with the motor oil. One can NOT use any chemical detergent for it may damage the engine. it has to be proven and tested to be compatible with whatever motor oil is chosen.

I love Amsoil and I love their service and products.

Will get back to you later today with more info. But for now, go with what you've got.
I would like to have you run regular motor oil and then try Amsoil. You can buy it from me. I am going to be researching more this week.

I only hope there's a solution for detergent and synthetics that keep the motor as clean as when using conventional.

 

Give you my 2 cents worth I don't know why a dodge engine would perform differently than a ford but my cougar has full syn from the start and has just under 250000 miles on it all that has been done engine wise is normal servicing and a water pump

 

I believe he also bought his truck used, so that all goes out the window when you take into account the previous owner.

My parents have a Dodge Diplomat that my dad overhauled a few years back. He showed me the block, which was absolutely crusted with carbon in the lifter galley as well as the heads. He admitted he should have known better and neglected some maintenance; however, much of it was also due to the previous owner.

I ran synthetic in my 2002 Cavalier from 30,000 miles and when it was wrecked at 142,000 the engine still ran like a Swiss watch. I have almost 100K on my engine rebuild on my Ram, which I've only been running synthetic. I might yank the engine next winter to go through it again as I want to upgrade to the Hughes intake and I also want to go through the heads and do a better job of porting/polishing them. I'm betting the inside of my engine looks fine since I change my oil every 6,000 miles and could probably go 10,000 considering it's all highway driven.

 

i never said you couldnt use synthetic, i said you shouldnt for it doesnt have enough cleaning detergents to clean our motors enough. if you check the oil after 3K of use and its still light brown and clean, (thats how mine was) then the oil didnt do its job.

and i switched to synthetic when i bought it at 187K, i just used conventional the first time at 202K, and it has 203K now.

 

48K miles, full synthetic the whole life (prev owner had service docs). When i did my roller rockers. It was pristine. I was shocked, especially seeing the baked on oil in the Harland Sharp DIY.

However, i have changed the oil 4 times in 6K miles (I have owned the truck 6K of the 48K miles). Both times I used Lucas oil stabilizer. Maybe the oil stabilizer is the reason. It has detergents and ANTI FOAM in it.

I change the oil 3 months OR 3K miles. Time breaks the oil down as well.

 

I have run synthetic since mine was new. I did my first oil change at 5000 miles. At 10,000 miles I switched to Amsoil and haven't looked back. I had the intake manifold changed at around 100,000 miles to a M1 and the motor looked very clean. I now have 170,000 miles on the truck(Miles clocked to 170,000 this morning) and it runs like a champ. I change mine every 7500 miles. I only do that because I use a cheaper filter ( NAPA Gold)then what Amsoil recommends other wise I would do it at 12,500 miles. I have never heard anything about a baked oil crust on engines that run Amsoil or for that matter any synthetic. The truck is 01' QC 4x4 and is my daily driver. I run between Florida and North Carolina a couple times a year. I average around 15,000 miles a year so that equates to about 2 oil changes a year. I pay more for a oil change but I do it less often so it works out the same. I am extremely happy with Amsoil.

 

There is nothing wrong with using Synthetic and going over the mythical 3,000 mile oil change interval. Detergents aren't needed either and are actually more harmful, but whatever floats your boat.

 

Most oils these days are NOT detergent oils. The detergents pick up the crap in your engine, and keep it in suspension, thus, circulating all that crap thru your engine repeatedly. Not really good for the soft metals in bearings and such.

Synthetic oil is just dino oil, processed differently. More uniformity of molecules and other such things.