scotchbrite pads with a little brake cleaner work real good too.

 

Scotchbrite like the green or red 3m pads?
You have to be quick with brake cleaner because it dries so fast. I like it because it breaks the oil down so quick but you have to wipe it up before it dries to call it clean.

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...0010_964161861___

w/o Sleeve 'N' Sealr; Must be used w/OS 34409R

what the heck is OS 34409R? i thought this was a part number but couldnt find it anywhere. just wondering since i'll be doing this change this weekend. hope i dont need anything else...

 

would this be wrong?

i am going to use blue thread locker on ALL bolts EXCEPT the intake bolts. this will include water pump, timing chain, tstat, and plenum bolts. the intake bolts i am not putting anything. maybe anti seize? the spark plugs will get anti seize as well.

is this the correct approach? thanks in advance...im getting pumped for the weekend! im gonna leave my internship early on friday so i can tear into the motor and break everything down friday. saturday will be putting everything back together and hopefully sunday will be a nice relaxing day.

i was reading the haynes book and they dont really say how to flush the cooling system. they just say to flush the radiator by running a hose in the top filler nexk of radiator and wait til the drain runs clear. my question is how do i flush the coolin system that flows through the motor? i wanna do this before i install the new water pump...obviously. where do i stick the garden hose to flush the motor coolant system so that it flows out the drain plugs on the side of the block?

 

hows ur serpentine belt and all pulleys? check them also

 

If you enter OS34409R in the search box on the Advance Auto website you will see the Felpro oil pan gasket.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...R%7CGRPGASKAMS____

 

1. Only the plenum bolts, TC,
2. You flush the system AFTER you put everything back on. Doing it before is a waste because you will lose all your coolant!!! It is like changing your oil BEFORE you change your oil pan. BTW, you will need to do an oil change when you bolt everything back on. Coolant will get in the oil
3. Your cooling system flows from the lower radiator hose to the engine up through the thermostat (when it opens) through the upper radiator hose and into the radiator....then back through the lower radiator hose. And the cycle continues.

All you need to do is this:
1. Drain everything out of the radiator from the petcock on the lower drivers side of the radiator (some 3/8 inch tubing helps to slide over the petcock).
2. Fill with water and run engine with the heat for 15 minutes then drain again.
3. Put Napa radiator flush/descaler in there and top off with water.
4. run the engine for 30 mins on high heater setting
5. open the drain petcock and let the rad drain while it is running and open the rad cap
6. keep adding water until it runs clear.

Then drain the rad and add a gallon jug of 100% antifreeze. The water left in the engine will dilute it 50/50. But get a cheap coolant tester to be sure. it is easier to drain and add more water than it is to walk to buy more coolant.

--dan

P.S. You will still be working on the truck Sunday. I did less than you and it took me 2.5 days.

 

yeah..my timeline was how i WANT it to go lol.

thanks for the tips. i'll be sure to keep all that in mind.

the belt i replaced last year. the pulleys i have never replaced and didnt event hink about them. i'll just do those another time..after the summer.

and yeah the oil pan i found by itself and then noticed the PN..thanks though

 

jeus...just got back from AZ. bought the timing gasket set and the oil pan gasket. ****ing oil pan was $39!?! wtf...it was the last one too and it had been previously
opened. i get home and i start looking over the PN and it looks to be the wrong part. normally AZ is pretty squared away with pulling parts...STAND BY

sure enough...i looked the PN online and it is the wrong one. hell and the gasket i got that was opened before is wrong and $10 more..i will be going back to a AZ near me to exchange...

 

alright...

stopped by AZ on way to ATL today. rented 1/2 drive breaker bar, harmoinc puller.

bought a 1 1/4 socket for the timing cover? i'll see when i get to that part of breaking down the front part of the motor. anyway, i remember seeing a post somewhere about using a 36 mm socket. i dont have one and really dont wanna spend that money on the socket. will i need to use a 36mm socket?

also no AZ has the spanner wrench. they all told me to use the chain wrench (like sheriff) to hold the pulley and then bust the nut with a wrench. looks like that is the way i'll be doing it. i just gotta find a damn AZ that has a chain wrench to rent. all right, im driving to ATL to my buddies house. its a 1 hr 30 min drive. hopefully someone will chime in on that socket issue. thanks in advance boys.