ok, the time has come for me to order my parts for an upcoming project. the project is replacing the plenum, the water pump, coolant system flush, and the timing chain. here is a list i have compiled over the weekend and it includes the parts for the project. if yall could look over it real quick and maybe give some input on if i am missing anything or if i am good to go. i would like to place the order by COB today, however i know most of yall wont read this til later tonight so i might order before i go to bed. thanks for yalls help, im looking forward to getting this done. i have never done anything more than the basic maint so im excited. i will be taking pics during the project just because pics are...awesome! as of right now i wont be doing the project by myself. i have a buddy of mine who lives in atlanta who has a garage and has experience and knowledge with working on cars (he has a 350z, races them, part of a 350z club, etc). his dad has a 2006 dodge ram 1500 MegaCab and does his own work when needed. the project is gonna be done over a weekend sometime within the month i would say. hopefully it wont take more than a day, i dont wanna half *** it though. anyway, here is the list:

hughes plenum kit (was a toss up with this or APS, but overall price did it)
hughes intake TTY bolts and gaskets
injector o rings (rock auto 2 sets for 8 fuel injectors $10)
180* t stat (rock auto $5)
bypass hose (rock auto $3)
upper rad hose (maybe)
lower rad hose (maybe)
Peak coolant (wallyworld 1 gal $7)
ultra black RTV (haynes states this for the intake area)
blue threadlocker (for intake bolts)
coolant temp sensor (rock auto $15)
TB gasket (rock auto)
water pump (mopar or rock auto..can't decide what brand at RA)
water pump gasket
timing chain set (rock auto cloyes $33) it says high performance is that ok for stock engine?
timing cover gasket (rock auto)
pre cat 02 ( i have two o2 sensors but if any is fouled it would be pre)


had a tune up done last july so im good with rotor, cap, plugs, wires. i am just confused on what timing chain to get. some say heavy duty and high performance. the haynes book shows a sprocket with three holes, so i cam staying with that setup but i just dont know if it matter if i get hevy duty high performance. any idea on a water pump brand from rock auto? what say you?

 

IMHO, id do the front seal as well, since you'll be that far into it.

 

is that the front crankshaft seal?

or front crank seal?

 

aim4squirrels used blue threadlocker on his intake bolts (don't quote me on that lol) and broke the damn head off trying to get it out. so i dunno bout that. but i dunno i'm no expert i'm sure someone will chime in here soon that knows more than me

 

+1 95RAM360 on the new front seal. It's not a matter of if but when it's going to fail, so you might just as well get it done while you're in there to extend the time before you've got to go back in.

Don't use thread locker on the intake manifold bolts. You'll be stuck extracting broken bolts later if you do. The darn things break off often enough without thread locker.

You might consider adding K-Y Jelly to your shopping list to make the injector installation easier/less failure prone. Don't use a petroleum-based lubricant on those as it would shorten the lifespan of the O-rings.

If you've got spring-type hose clamps on any of those hoses you're removing you'll want to get worm-drive clamps to replace them. The spring type tend to lose their clamping force over time.

If any of the hoses you're removing are four or more years old, I recommend replacing them as part of this job. Keep the old ones as roadside emergency spares if they're not too far gone.

Inspect your serpentine belt, and if it's got any damage or is near the end of its service life as indicated by the wear indicator on the tensioner assembly, replace it. If you replace it for wear but it's not damaged, keep the original as an emergency roadside spare.

There's no reason to replace the original thermostat housing if it's in good shape.

The heavy duty/hi-perf timing chain/gears should last longer than OEM replacements. If you're going to keep the truck more than five more years or 60,000 miles and don't see any engine rebuilding coming within 100,000 miles, spend the extra money for the piece of mind. Otherwise, it's the next guy's problem or something to do at rebuild time.

Have fun!

 

will astro glide work wife prefers that lol

 

Hey, if it works on the wife it's good enough for the truck. Just be sure the garage door is closed so you don't get arrested.

 

so what do i use on the new TTY intake bolts? no thread locker? not even purple?

yeah i replaced the belt last thanksgiving so thats fine as well. the hoses seems fine, no dry rot or any breaking. well its good to know that the hvy duty/high perfom. chain will be fine. i'll go ahead and get that as well. i plan on keeping this truck for a looong time by the way. good i'll save the $10 and not get the new housing. is the front seal behind the harmonic balancer?

never knew that is what those clamps were called. yeah i will get rid of the spring clamp if i have any!

 

There's some debate about whether or not to use anti-seize on TTY bolts. I generally do, and would. Other than that, I always chase the female threads to ensure that they're as perfect as can be before installing TTY's.

The front main seal is behind the harmonic balancer.

 

i didnt use any theadlocker or anti-seize and have had not problems so far