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Am I Forgetting Anything?

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 01:52 PM
  #61  
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From: Wherever Uncle Sam Says
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Originally Posted by CPTAFW163
1. Only the plenum bolts, TC,
2. You flush the system AFTER you put everything back on. Doing it before is a waste because you will lose all your coolant!!! It is like changing your oil BEFORE you change your oil pan. BTW, you will need to do an oil change when you bolt everything back on. Coolant will get in the oil
3. Your cooling system flows from the lower radiator hose to the engine up through the thermostat (when it opens) through the upper radiator hose and into the radiator....then back through the lower radiator hose. And the cycle continues.

All you need to do is this:
1. Drain everything out of the radiator from the petcock on the lower drivers side of the radiator (some 3/8 inch tubing helps to slide over the petcock).
2. Fill with water and run engine with the heat for 15 minutes then drain again.
3. Put Napa radiator flush/descaler in there and top off with water.
4. run the engine for 30 mins on high heater setting
5. open the drain petcock and let the rad drain while it is running and open the rad cap
6. keep adding water until it runs clear.

Then drain the rad and add a gallon jug of 100% antifreeze. The water left in the engine will dilute it 50/50. But get a cheap coolant tester to be sure. it is easier to drain and add more water than it is to walk to buy more coolant.

--dan

P.S. You will still be working on the truck Sunday. I did less than you and it took me 2.5 days.

TC? timing cover? thanks CPT. i might need your help along with everyone elses this weekend. i'll be posting questrions throughout the process. will give a sitrep soon. STAND BY..
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:49 PM
  #62  
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Any ideas for this socket? Yeah I'll be working on it Sunday lol. Damn didn't Start on it til 1620. I got the coolant drainEd.... Whoopdidoo. Hopefully we can start at the buttcrack of dawn.

How much coolant to use after flushing and draining? TIA

also I don't have an air gun to use on the fan nut. I'm gonna have to use a combination wrench. I got a strap wrench to go over pulley. This looks like it's gonna suck. Damn buddy havin his anniversary lol. I wanted to get more done tonight.

Any input on the earlier stuff? Thanks
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 11:36 PM
  #63  
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If the socket you have fits the big *** bolt on the crank, you don't need the other one.

I think there is a chart of various fluids and capacities in the DIY section somewhere? I vaguely recall seeing that at one point.

Is Dawn going to be helping you tomorrow? I have found she doesn't know squat about trucks.....
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:56 PM
  #64  
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Haynes has the fluid capacities. it says 21 quarts. that is from a DRY engine. All it took for me was one gallon of coolant (100%) and another gallon of water. And I had some leftover.

Get the stuff you mix yourself. WHere you live (HEAT) you will be FINE with one jug of coolant and filling the rest with water. When the winter months come, have a quick lube winterize your engine. ALso, buy that Royal Purple coolant additive. I tried it and it works very well. MAX AC and not a hair over 180. 60% water, 40% coolant.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #65  
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had a SNAFU this weekend...

i was pretty hot saturday afternoon. anyway, hopefully i will get this squared away.

thanks HY and CPT for the input. when putting the fan nut back on, how the hell do yall torque it? i would imagine just hand tightening with a wrench due to the small space.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #66  
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Yep, strap wrench the pully, and then as tight as you can. (one grunt should be adequate)
 
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