The sleeve is just for if your balancer has a groove in it. I didn't use the sleeve and I don't have a leak at the front crank seal.

I don't know what carded means but that is the heater pipe I was talking about. Some new water pumps come with one, find out if yours does before you buy the pipe by itself.

If you don't stick a pry bar into the flywheel teeth then when you go to remove the balancers bolt all you will do is rotate the motor and it won't come loose. You need to take the starter and transmission inspection cover off to get at the flywheel. A helper is handy, have them hold the prybar in the teeth of the flywheel while you take the crank bolt out.

 

so i went to AZ and bought the duralast water pump. comes with a lifetime warranty so that is why i went with it and it was new not REMAN. the guy told me i was gonna have fun with this bc i need special tools and this county doesn't have one to loan. he called it a spanner wrench? i don't recall hearing this brought up before in the threads. i don't think haynes says that either. anyway, went ahead and bought the WP, i forgot to grab the fel pro gaskets so i'll get those sometime this week. it came with a gasket, but it seriously looks like black construction paper cut into a gasket lol. it didn't come with the water pump heater pipe so i'll also get that this week. i am looking on mopar to get the gaskets and front crank seal right now. stand by

 

just came in from outside (hot as ***** mind you) and i haven answered the million dollar question. yes my plenum is too leaking. not enough bc i have heard no pinging and have had very little oil loss. my oil psi stays around 40 or higher when driving. although when it came time to do an oil change (5000miles later) i always checked the oil level and it was half a qt or a qt low at change time. i kept that in the back of my head but sure enough, it is leaking. i crawled up on my bumper and crouched on the radiator and shock strut housing and i used my LED magnetic pickup to shine into the TB. just to double check i let the magnet touch the pan and it immediately stuck to it (steel pan). good thing is i know i DO have a situation bad thing is there were NO signs. (a lot of people say that) well i will be purchasing the hughes kit any minute now...i forgot what a PITFA the air box is. i can't wait til i put the MOPAR round filter on...

 

SITREP

went ahead and ordered the hughes plenum kit with intake bolts and gaskets. i also through in the precat o2 sensor. i figured since i already have the magnaflow cat waiting to get put on i should have a new o2 before it. now i have bought almost all the parts. i just need to buy the gaskets for the timing cover, WP, front crank seal, and then the RTV, coolant and oil.

 

Regarding post #29 by trugent81
Carded refers to the packaging of the item. In this case, the heater tube and o-ring will be attached to a piece of cardboard with shrink wrap plastic. This is meaningless as far as your project is concerned.


Regarding post #32 by trugent81
The Autozone guy called the wrench you needed a "spanner wrench". This wrench is otherwise known as a Fan Wrench. You will use it to remove the fan drive assembly from the water pump shaft. You will also use it to tighten the fan drive assembly to the shaft on the replacement water pump. The wrench fits a 36mm nut on the fan drive assembly. The 36mm nut is illustrated in the following picture:



Do not buy this wrench. Call around to the Autozones in your area to locate one. There are a bunch of Autozones in the Atlanta area. People use these tools and then take them back to Autozone. You can try Advance Auto as they have a loaner program also. What's so special about this tool? It's long to reach down to the nut and it's skinny which helps you to position it around stuff.

Here's a link for the Autozone loaner program.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ino...tingAndCooling
See part OEM27018

Here's a link to the snapon tool referenced in the Dodge service manual:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1286

This might work if you can't find a loaner:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2595_200322595
You'll have to look at it to see if it's long enough. The Snapon is 15" long. The deal here is that you have to buy it and I'm not sure if you would ever use it for anything else, although it does double as a weapon.

Regarding the removal of the fan drive assembly, I don't know if your manual mentions this, but note this from the Dodge Service Manual:
In other words, lean the whole fan assembly against a wall in a vertical position as if it were still mounted to the water pump.

 

I just used the big adjust wrench



oh you may need a fuel line disconeck tool,,,, unless you just want to leave the fuel rail in the tuck when you pull the kegger

 

Do not disconnect the fuel line. Just zip tie it away from the work area. If you disconnect it without depressurizing the rail, then it will be like a fire hydrant, except fuel. Even depressurized, you will get gas everywhere.

--Dan

 

I rented one from autozone, but ended up keeping it because it was only 12 bucks. But it is a flimsy piece of steel. with the right measurement cut into it.

Just buy one. YOu will end up needing it down the road if you are replacing a broken (sagging) fan shroud or installing electric fans...or anything else that youa re doing and you want to have more room in the engine bay.

 

You don't need to remove the fuel rail or injectors, a lot of us didn't. It just says to in the Haynes for some reason. Just depressurize the fuel system, and disconnect the fuel line. Simple.

 

i did just a little easyer to put new injection o-rings inn