So I've had issues with starting since I purchased the truck 3mos ago. Sometimes it'll fire up with no trouble, other times it won't crank at all. When this occurs, I just keep trying and eventually it does start up.

So today, something new occurred. As usual, it just clicks. Several attempts later, it does fire up, but the starter keeps spinning while the truck is running. I shut it off, but the starter keeps going, and the truck acts like its dieseling. I turn the key back on, and the truck idles up okay......with the starter still spinning. I had to remove the negative battery cable to kill the truck and the starter (when key is removed from ignition switch).

I tried reattaching the negative cable (don't remember if key was on or not), but it arc'd real bad, like something was shorting out. I ended up pulling both cables to be safe. I've removed the starter and had it tested at 2 different places. Both said it WAS NOT defective. After getting back home, I checked for bad fuses (none), melted relays (none) and frayed wires (none). With the starter removed and disconnected, key in ignition and "on," I reattached the battery cables and there was ZERO arcing this time.

I'll pull the battery cables and check for cracked insulation, resistance, and continuity. I'm also inclined to believe its the ignition switch itself, since the problem has been intermittent, at best. I did do a search on this forum, but didn't find anything that match my circumstances 100%. Your thoughts?

 

Sounds very logical and possible. Give her a shot they do not cost that much either. You will need a set of security torx bits just a heads up.

 

Sounds just like a sticky start relay to me.

 

I can order the switch for $55, and its a 1-day ship. Hopefully, I can find some relays local. They should be cheap. I hesitate spending any $$$ until I can verify the problem. I'd also like to test for voltage at the wire leading into the solenoid. I don't recall what the voltage should be off the top of my head, but if its getting voltage without the key in the ignition, that's a problem.

As for now, we have an appointment with the doc (post-surgical) on Wed afternoon, and I don't have a way of getting there without the truck. Hopefully, I can be up and going again soon.

 

The relay should be an easy test. Locate it in the power distribution panel (there's a legend on the underside of the lid) and then locate another of the same type that you can run without. Swap the other relay into place, leaving the original start relay out, and see what happens when you start it.

Or: You can create a jumper with some spade lugs and a short piece of wire. With the ignition switch in the On position, jumper the appropriate terminals in the relay socket, pulling the jumper when the engine starts. If the starter disengages, everything from the PDC to the starter is just fine. Shut the engine off, and probe the start relay coil high side terminal in the PDC with a multimeter or test light. It should be 0VDC (or test light off) except when the key is turned to start, and should go back to 0VDC (or test light off) when the key is released. If both of these tests pass, the relay is toast.

 

will do, thanks.

 

Ignition switch tested normal on all parameters, according to my Haynes manual. The fuse for the starter solenoid is intact, and receiving power. The starter relay tested normal, and is receiving power to #30 in any key position. However, pole 86 is not receiving power in any key position, and the manual states that it should. Can someone tell me where the power for pole 86 is coming from on the starter relay? I'm having a hard time following the diagram in my manual, and the manual found in the technical section of this forum. Thanks.


On a side note, I put everything back together just for ****s and giggles. Damn thing fired up with no problems. Other than a sticky relay, that is now functioning, I can't find a problem. I'll order a few relays and a switch, since they're cheap and its good insurance.

 

Pin 86 gets its cue from the ignition switch, should be a yellow wire with a red trace coming into the PDC, just a plain yellow wire at the switch. There is a bypass jumper in that line, where on a manual trans truck, it would plug into the clutch safety switch.

 

I consider spare relays to be as essential as spare fuses and always keep a few on board. I'd be really very surprised if the symptom you've described is anything but a sticky relay.

I'm curious about that pin 86 observation. I'm thinking it's an erroneous observation because the truck started, and without current through that relay coil starting just isn't going to happen.

 

but its not an errant observation. According to my manual, it should have juice when the key is in the "on" position. I tested last night while also testing the #30 position. It did not light up my tester. I checked again today after I tested the keyswitch and installing the starter. Just to cover my bases, I had my wife turn the key through all position, including "start," just to see if it would light up. Still nothing. This is why I'm stumped.


Whats the purpose of the bypass?