Working on mine now. Pulled the old rusted lines out last night. I'm replacing the long one from front to back (pita to get out), and 4 shorter lines under the hood (2 from the master cylinder and 2 that connect to something else that I'm not sure the name of). I bought the 25' roll of line and the tools to make my own fittings. All materials were about $70 at AutoZone.

Rob

 

that rear line is a **** to fish through and spin into place without dropping the tank. Wish I would have seen the wheel well trick before I started. Also didn't realize there was a junction box between the rear line and the abs module. I understand why they do it, but the prb is... Im now one line short. Unless the place up the road can make me one off of my old one... I guess I will wait for dodge. I got the front of the rear line into the block... but can't seem to get the rear nut to grab I'll continue working in the AM.

 

Picked up my lines this morning from dodge, and had to custom fab the line I forgot. Had a lot of other things to do today, but did manage to get everything ran, tightened down, etc.. Just need to bleed them tomorrow and I should hopefully be good to go.

 

What size is the brake line that our trucks use?

 

Depends where your at. The line I had to fab was 5/16 metric line at napa. I did the line that comes out of the abs module and down to the aluminum block mounted on the frame that connects to the rear line. (I overlooked this line because you can not see it with the plastic fenderwell in. Either way, I love how everything is metric under the hood and standard size when connects anywhere else lol. What kind of mickey mouse **** is that? I bought the metric line, bent to match the old and re-used the standard fitting and re-flared it. My replacement lines were all just shy of $30 a piece directly from dodge. The long line to the rear was about $30, the MC short lines are about $30. Aparently length of the line doesn't dictate price... but if I were to do it all again I probably would have just made those two. Bending the MC lines would be a piece of cake, and they are both metric ends so you might even just be able to buy a length. I bought a 51" line that was overkill (rather have more line than too less when I made it). Cost about $7.

 

It is an extremely rare occasion when I will purchase pre-bent lines. Only at customer request. All of the others, I just buy bulk line, either the roll, or, in standard lengths, and bend it myself. Flaring tools are not expensive, in fact, in the money you save buying straight line, as opposed to the pre-bent stuff, you could pay for the tool...... and then you would still have the tool.....

 

Only thing is, when I bent the one to match it wasn't exact. This was also the line that gave me trouble with leaks on both ends. All the other lines bolted up fine with no leaks. You could save yourself some money for sure bending the lines but... the rear line I would buy, no questions asked. Either way, bled the lines today with new dot 4 fluid and good to go

 

I'm sorry.

Just can't help it.

The title of this thread makes me laugh.

 

I figured I would share this in case anybody is in the same boat as me after replacing brake lines. I killed the clips holding my wheel well splash guard when I removed them. I figured oh well and went to the dealer to replace. It was going to be over $50 for 9 of them lol. I said forget that. I found them on eBay in packs of 25 for under $10 shipped: http://motors.desc.shop.ebay.com/i.h...0.l1313&_rdc=1

Rob

 

my main line to the back went out goin down the road it was not good lol