CAUTION! Coroded brake lines can fail!
I've known for a while that my brake lines (along with many other things) have a good bit of rust. I made the mistake of thinking that since they are double-walled, the rust was superficial. Well, on my way home early this morning from driving a friend to the airport, I was coming to a stop light. I pressed the brake pedal. It performed normally until it suddenly went soft and dropped nearly to the bottom where I managed to get enough pressure to stop the truck. I got off of the road and closer examination revealed that a section of about a centimeter was missing from one side of the rusted brakeline that sits just behind the rear-most part of the front driver side wheel well.
We managed to patch it enough to limp home.
I got way to close to putting a Dodge tattoo on the rear bumper of a Mazda. I just wanted to say this for anyone who is ignoring any rusted or dammaged brake lines. Get them replaced ASAP!
We managed to patch it enough to limp home.
I got way to close to putting a Dodge tattoo on the rear bumper of a Mazda. I just wanted to say this for anyone who is ignoring any rusted or dammaged brake lines. Get them replaced ASAP!
Lucky for me the same thing happened when I was in my driveway just moving the cars around.
When I look under the hood and see rust on the hardlines from the master cylinder I wonder if I should change those as well.
When I look under the hood and see rust on the hardlines from the master cylinder I wonder if I should change those as well.
Also, I have that same hard line rust everywhere.
I found this out Monday. At the gas station after getting some gas my pedal went to the floor. Mine blew out above the gas tank. I'm working on repairing all lines since they are all pretty crusty, even where they connect to the master cylinder.
Rob
Rob
I just did all new lines on my truck when the transmission was out. They would have failed in short order had I not. the one on the rear proportion (load sensing) valve was removable with my fingers.
Note, a bubble flare tool is required for the lines going to the proportioning valve. I bypassed the block on the frame under the drivers wheel well and ran a single line all the way from the Prop valve to the rear.
I also use the coated brake line from NAPA that you buy in rolls, a 25' roll did the whole truck. this stuff does not rust nearly as bad as the regular preterminated lenghts do.
Note, a bubble flare tool is required for the lines going to the proportioning valve. I bypassed the block on the frame under the drivers wheel well and ran a single line all the way from the Prop valve to the rear.
I also use the coated brake line from NAPA that you buy in rolls, a 25' roll did the whole truck. this stuff does not rust nearly as bad as the regular preterminated lenghts do.



